South Fork of the Cal Salmon
Location - Northern California
Difficulty - Class IV-IV+ Length - 7 miles
Level - 4.5 feet Salmon Gauge
Date - June 2008
Difficulty - Class IV-IV+ Length - 7 miles
Level - 4.5 feet Salmon Gauge
Date - June 2008
We made the 4 hour drive south on Thursday night. After leaving Grant’s Pass the route is incredibly remote. We took a short cut through the heart of the
Sisyou’s to Happy Camp and found some patches of snow clinging to the north slopes at the top of the pass. From here we wound our way down the lower
stretches of the Klamath River, dodging deer and silver fox as we headed towards Somes Bar. We didn’t roll into camp until around midnight, but since it was only
Thursday there were plenty of campsites available.
I crawled into the back of my truck with the dog and hoped that being away from the Willamette Valley would let me allergies ease up somewhat. This was not to
be, and despite being tortured by a stuffy nose for most of the night I managed to get some solid sleep. We slept in a little, and found that it was already
pleasantly warm when we woke up around 8:00 am. Our first glimpse of the campground in daylight showed a gorgeous area surrounded by Madrone, Live Oak,
and other trees typical of these dry forests. Bushes of poison oak made up the understory and deer where everywhere. On a short walk with the dog we saw two
fawns and three or four adult deer.
After a nice leisurely breakfast we decided to head upstream to check out the South Fork of the Cal Salmon. With the main Salmon running at about 4 feet we
knew that the South Fork would be on the lower end of runnable so we wanted to hit it first in case levels continued to drop throughout the weekend. I had just
prepared a nice place to leave Middie at the campsite when we found a bright pink sign near the bathroom warning that a cougar had been recently sighted in
the campground on a number of occasions. This was prime cougar territory, and with the number of deer around there was little doubt that the big cats had
plenty of food to flourish. While cougars could be anywhere, I did not want to leave Middie chained to a tree where one had just been recently sighted. The dog
ended up coming along with us.
Sisyou’s to Happy Camp and found some patches of snow clinging to the north slopes at the top of the pass. From here we wound our way down the lower
stretches of the Klamath River, dodging deer and silver fox as we headed towards Somes Bar. We didn’t roll into camp until around midnight, but since it was only
Thursday there were plenty of campsites available.
I crawled into the back of my truck with the dog and hoped that being away from the Willamette Valley would let me allergies ease up somewhat. This was not to
be, and despite being tortured by a stuffy nose for most of the night I managed to get some solid sleep. We slept in a little, and found that it was already
pleasantly warm when we woke up around 8:00 am. Our first glimpse of the campground in daylight showed a gorgeous area surrounded by Madrone, Live Oak,
and other trees typical of these dry forests. Bushes of poison oak made up the understory and deer where everywhere. On a short walk with the dog we saw two
fawns and three or four adult deer.
After a nice leisurely breakfast we decided to head upstream to check out the South Fork of the Cal Salmon. With the main Salmon running at about 4 feet we
knew that the South Fork would be on the lower end of runnable so we wanted to hit it first in case levels continued to drop throughout the weekend. I had just
prepared a nice place to leave Middie at the campsite when we found a bright pink sign near the bathroom warning that a cougar had been recently sighted in
the campground on a number of occasions. This was prime cougar territory, and with the number of deer around there was little doubt that the big cats had
plenty of food to flourish. While cougars could be anywhere, I did not want to leave Middie chained to a tree where one had just been recently sighted. The dog
ended up coming along with us.
The road to the put in is about as wild as a maintained paved road typically gets. Clinging to the steep canyon walls of the Salmon River it snaked and wound
its way upstream to a tiny community very near where the North and South Forks of the Cal Salmon came together. The North Fork was clearly too low to run
and after a brief bit of confusion with the maps we were on our way up the wild valley of the South Fork. After twenty miles or so we confirmed the take out and
continued upstream to locate a suitable put in.
The road climbed up and away from the river which was now set in a rugged gorge with an inner canyon cut into bedrock. Lots of clean looking drops could
be seen from the road and we knew the river would provide plenty of action despite the low level. After five or six miles the road dropped back down to the
river and we started looking for a place to put in. The first few likely spots were clearly posted as private property so we kept on driving along. Eventually we
found a place where the road came close enough to the river and had enough of a shoulder for us to park on.
It was at least eighty five degrees outside and I set up Middie in a shady spot with her swimming pool full of water before changing up for boating. The warm
weather meant we could wear shorts and a dry top, something that had grown foreign to me while spending the last two winters boating in Oregon. At the put
in the South Fork was narrow and shallow, running over a gravel and cobble bottom, not yet gorged up and deceivingly mellow.
its way upstream to a tiny community very near where the North and South Forks of the Cal Salmon came together. The North Fork was clearly too low to run
and after a brief bit of confusion with the maps we were on our way up the wild valley of the South Fork. After twenty miles or so we confirmed the take out and
continued upstream to locate a suitable put in.
The road climbed up and away from the river which was now set in a rugged gorge with an inner canyon cut into bedrock. Lots of clean looking drops could
be seen from the road and we knew the river would provide plenty of action despite the low level. After five or six miles the road dropped back down to the
river and we started looking for a place to put in. The first few likely spots were clearly posted as private property so we kept on driving along. Eventually we
found a place where the road came close enough to the river and had enough of a shoulder for us to park on.
It was at least eighty five degrees outside and I set up Middie in a shady spot with her swimming pool full of water before changing up for boating. The warm
weather meant we could wear shorts and a dry top, something that had grown foreign to me while spending the last two winters boating in Oregon. At the put
in the South Fork was narrow and shallow, running over a gravel and cobble bottom, not yet gorged up and deceivingly mellow.
The drops were very high quality and clean despite the lower flows. The water sculpted granite shone in the sun and made for many photogenic drops.
The holes were generally forgiving at this level, but a few were sticky enough to warrant attention. Most drops held a few viable lines, but somewhat
precise boat control was needed to avoid pins or pitons in a few place. One drop in particular called for boaters to run up onto a slab of granite to stay
out of a nasty looking crack while another required a strong left to right move to avoid a hole feeding into a mildly undercut canyon wall. In general the run
was difficult enough to be entertaining, but it never felt particularly dangerous.
Some of the most confusing sections came where South Fork was not canalized and running over bedrock ledges. Here there were some steep boulder
gardens that hid some nasty piton rocks and were nearly impossible to scout due to thick riverside brush. These sections did not last for long, but one did
force us out for a scout. A steeper boulder garden led into a ledgey stretch of river and we didn’t want to be forced into a position where we ended up
blindly running a big drop.
The scout proved useful because it revealed a piton rock that would have otherwise been invisible and let us see the best line over a narrow steep drop
into a big hole.
The holes were generally forgiving at this level, but a few were sticky enough to warrant attention. Most drops held a few viable lines, but somewhat
precise boat control was needed to avoid pins or pitons in a few place. One drop in particular called for boaters to run up onto a slab of granite to stay
out of a nasty looking crack while another required a strong left to right move to avoid a hole feeding into a mildly undercut canyon wall. In general the run
was difficult enough to be entertaining, but it never felt particularly dangerous.
Some of the most confusing sections came where South Fork was not canalized and running over bedrock ledges. Here there were some steep boulder
gardens that hid some nasty piton rocks and were nearly impossible to scout due to thick riverside brush. These sections did not last for long, but one did
force us out for a scout. A steeper boulder garden led into a ledgey stretch of river and we didn’t want to be forced into a position where we ended up
blindly running a big drop.
The scout proved useful because it revealed a piton rock that would have otherwise been invisible and let us see the best line over a narrow steep drop
into a big hole.
After this rapid and another open stretch, the South Fork pooled up and prepared to enter the final and most dramatic canyon of the run. From the water we
recognized the telltale steepening of the valley walls and we could see the shuttle road snaking higher and higher above the river. While driving to the put in we
saw a great deal of boulder drops in this final stretch and we eagerly headed into what we hoped would be the icing on the cake for what had been a great day
of boating already.
The river would not disappoint, and we soon found ourselves working our way through boulder gardens and granite gorges. Plentiful eddies let us aggressively
boat scout much of this stretch but eventually we came to a significant horizon line dropping into a completely walled out canyon. Most of the crew got out well
above the rapid on river left, but Bob and I worked our way down lower on river right to a last chance eddy. From here we hopped out to make a scout.
This is the only names rapid that I was able to recognize from the quick once over I gave of the guidebook’s description of the run. Amusement Park is a fun
twisting drop with a few holes leading into a deep canyon. The drop was not particularly difficult, bit it was one of the more powerful rapids on the river at this
flow. We ran through one at a time with no having any difficulties. More good rapids followed with boat scout able boulder gardens and more interesting drops.
We moved along quickly for a while before coming to another significant horizon line with more vertical walls on each side.
We scrambled out onto a narrow ledge and shimmied along for a look at the drop but could only see the lead in. Most of the flow canalized to the right and
swung around a sharp left turn and into what looked like might be a sizeable hole. River left was a boulder jumble and sieve that was completely unrunnable.
With no way to scout farther and no way to portage we were committed to probing down and around the corner. The move looked easy enough so no one was
particularly concerned, but running blindly into what might be a big hole is always a little unnerving. In the end, everyone made it through cleanly and the hole
was not as sticky as it appeared from above.
For all practical purposes this rapid marked the end of the whitewater on this stretch of the South Fork. The canyon walls peeled back and we surprised some
folks taking a swim at the runout of the gorge. The river widened now and began flowing over a gravel bottom. We started to keep out eyes peeled for signs of
the takeout bar and after a few false alarms we found it and made the hike up to Nate’s car. It was incredible to feel how much hotter it was up and away from the
water. Temperatures must have been at least ninety degrees and the cold beers waiting for us in the cooler tasted amazing. I was completely thrilled with what a
great day of boating this had been. For a trip I almost thought about cancelling due to low water, this turned out to be a gem.
recognized the telltale steepening of the valley walls and we could see the shuttle road snaking higher and higher above the river. While driving to the put in we
saw a great deal of boulder drops in this final stretch and we eagerly headed into what we hoped would be the icing on the cake for what had been a great day
of boating already.
The river would not disappoint, and we soon found ourselves working our way through boulder gardens and granite gorges. Plentiful eddies let us aggressively
boat scout much of this stretch but eventually we came to a significant horizon line dropping into a completely walled out canyon. Most of the crew got out well
above the rapid on river left, but Bob and I worked our way down lower on river right to a last chance eddy. From here we hopped out to make a scout.
This is the only names rapid that I was able to recognize from the quick once over I gave of the guidebook’s description of the run. Amusement Park is a fun
twisting drop with a few holes leading into a deep canyon. The drop was not particularly difficult, bit it was one of the more powerful rapids on the river at this
flow. We ran through one at a time with no having any difficulties. More good rapids followed with boat scout able boulder gardens and more interesting drops.
We moved along quickly for a while before coming to another significant horizon line with more vertical walls on each side.
We scrambled out onto a narrow ledge and shimmied along for a look at the drop but could only see the lead in. Most of the flow canalized to the right and
swung around a sharp left turn and into what looked like might be a sizeable hole. River left was a boulder jumble and sieve that was completely unrunnable.
With no way to scout farther and no way to portage we were committed to probing down and around the corner. The move looked easy enough so no one was
particularly concerned, but running blindly into what might be a big hole is always a little unnerving. In the end, everyone made it through cleanly and the hole
was not as sticky as it appeared from above.
For all practical purposes this rapid marked the end of the whitewater on this stretch of the South Fork. The canyon walls peeled back and we surprised some
folks taking a swim at the runout of the gorge. The river widened now and began flowing over a gravel bottom. We started to keep out eyes peeled for signs of
the takeout bar and after a few false alarms we found it and made the hike up to Nate’s car. It was incredible to feel how much hotter it was up and away from the
water. Temperatures must have been at least ninety degrees and the cold beers waiting for us in the cooler tasted amazing. I was completely thrilled with what a
great day of boating this had been. For a trip I almost thought about cancelling due to low water, this turned out to be a gem.
I was relieved to find Middie happily resting in the shade under my truck back up at the put in. By the times we finished the shuttle my shorts had
completely dried and we were ready to make the drive back down to our campground. Along the way we stopped to check out a few drops on the main
stretch of the Salmon and to relax in the sun. Summer boating is great, and picture perfect weather in California makes it even better. The valley of the
Salmon River is wild, rugged, and much more remote than I had imagined. Northern California is a wild place with very few inhabitants. The Marble
Mountains and Trinity Mountains have proved rough enough to prevent substantial settlements for over a hundred years.
As we arrived back at the campground some storm clouds were building on the horizon, but it looked doubtful that any rain would materialize. We settled
into an evening of relaxing and hanging out that lasted well beyond dark. By the time we went to sleep everyone was exhausted and eager to hit the run
on the Heinzerling run on the Salmon in the morning.
My allergies had subsided and I would have been able to fall asleep right away had it not been for the intense thunderstorm that rolled through the valley
just after midnight. There was lots of thunder and lightning, but surprisingly little rain. This was Middie’s first real thunderstorm and she was happy to
crawl up on top of my sleeping bag. The rest of the night was calm until an early morning storm slammed us again. It turned out that these storms were
part of a frontal system that ended up spawning many of the vicious wildfires that devastated much of California for many weeks to follow.
completely dried and we were ready to make the drive back down to our campground. Along the way we stopped to check out a few drops on the main
stretch of the Salmon and to relax in the sun. Summer boating is great, and picture perfect weather in California makes it even better. The valley of the
Salmon River is wild, rugged, and much more remote than I had imagined. Northern California is a wild place with very few inhabitants. The Marble
Mountains and Trinity Mountains have proved rough enough to prevent substantial settlements for over a hundred years.
As we arrived back at the campground some storm clouds were building on the horizon, but it looked doubtful that any rain would materialize. We settled
into an evening of relaxing and hanging out that lasted well beyond dark. By the time we went to sleep everyone was exhausted and eager to hit the run
on the Heinzerling run on the Salmon in the morning.
My allergies had subsided and I would have been able to fall asleep right away had it not been for the intense thunderstorm that rolled through the valley
just after midnight. There was lots of thunder and lightning, but surprisingly little rain. This was Middie’s first real thunderstorm and she was happy to
crawl up on top of my sleeping bag. The rest of the night was calm until an early morning storm slammed us again. It turned out that these storms were
part of a frontal system that ended up spawning many of the vicious wildfires that devastated much of California for many weeks to follow.
Here I am running a fun drop typical of those found along the South Fork of the Cal Salmon.
The South Fork provided many quality rapids in granite canyons despite the lower flows.
Steve drops into the first good drop on the South Fork. Several miles of clean
rapids greeted us on this first run of our trip south.
rapids greeted us on this first run of our trip south.
Sunshine, clear water, and fun drops made the decision to set up a leisurely
pace easy.
pace easy.
Jason and Bob look on as someone gets to ready to run one of the more complicated drops in the first part of the South Fork.
Bob boofs into a typical rapid set in a gorgeous canyon at the bottom of a steep and rugged valley. Much of the run looked similar
to this scene.
to this scene.
Although this drop was relatively benign, the uniform nature of the hole made it somewhat sticky even at low flows.
Amusement Park is a fun twisting class IV rapid that led into a long boulder garden at the exit of the canyon.
Jeremiah cruises through the fun boulder garden at the bottom of one of the last gorges on the South Fork.
The scenery was as rewarding as the whitewater on this run and the hot
weather and clear skies made the day top notch.
weather and clear skies made the day top notch.
The last rapid on the river was impossible to scout. A boulder sieve on river left forced us to the right where it looked like a big hole waited
at the bottom.
at the bottom.
Steve paddles around the blind corner and gets ready to punch the sticky hydraulic at the bottom of the last drop.
Middie relaxes at the campground under Live Oak and Madrone trees.
A record snow pack in the Cascades of Oregon and Washington had made for
consistent warm weather paddling throughout May and June. As local creeks
begin to finally dry up we shifted our focus to some interesting out of state runs.
Many of the runs in Washington were still flowing strong as were a few of the
larger rivers in northern California. With rain and somewhat chilly temperatures
forecasted in the north, a crew of us fro Eugene decided to head south to the
Salmon River in California. Sunny skies and days in the nineties were
guaranteed and there were plenty of runs in the Cal Salmon drainage to keep
us entertained.
consistent warm weather paddling throughout May and June. As local creeks
begin to finally dry up we shifted our focus to some interesting out of state runs.
Many of the runs in Washington were still flowing strong as were a few of the
larger rivers in northern California. With rain and somewhat chilly temperatures
forecasted in the north, a crew of us fro Eugene decided to head south to the
Salmon River in California. Sunny skies and days in the nineties were
guaranteed and there were plenty of runs in the Cal Salmon drainage to keep
us entertained.
| Video Clip of Cal Salmon |
After a few shallow class II rapids and a couple of fun warm up boulder gardens, the valleys walls started to close in and granite bedrock started to show up.
Soon the river entered a small granite canyon, the first of many that make this an outstanding run. Since none of us knew the run and the level was low we
were pretty committed to scouting whenever it made sense. The weather was perfect and there was just no good reason to rush. The weather was perfect and
there was just no good reason to rush. The first mini canyon held some nice looking class III+ whitewater that we all ran without problems.
From here on out the South Fork remained interesting until the take out. At these low flows the river was not pushy, but the individual drops were quite
pronounced and at times steep. Most were boat scout able, but we often hopped out to inspect the routes and take photographs. The lower water level did
make for a few hazardous spots with pin rocks and undercuts being the most worrisome, but the majority of these were pretty obvious and easily avoided. We
all agreed that while this was a fun level, another foot of water would have made things way more interesting. Anything higher than that and the run would start
to kick up some bog holes and the recovery time between individual drops would be greatly reduced. The run would likely push into the class IV+-V range at
high water.
Soon the river entered a small granite canyon, the first of many that make this an outstanding run. Since none of us knew the run and the level was low we
were pretty committed to scouting whenever it made sense. The weather was perfect and there was just no good reason to rush. The weather was perfect and
there was just no good reason to rush. The first mini canyon held some nice looking class III+ whitewater that we all ran without problems.
From here on out the South Fork remained interesting until the take out. At these low flows the river was not pushy, but the individual drops were quite
pronounced and at times steep. Most were boat scout able, but we often hopped out to inspect the routes and take photographs. The lower water level did
make for a few hazardous spots with pin rocks and undercuts being the most worrisome, but the majority of these were pretty obvious and easily avoided. We
all agreed that while this was a fun level, another foot of water would have made things way more interesting. Anything higher than that and the run would start
to kick up some bog holes and the recovery time between individual drops would be greatly reduced. The run would likely push into the class IV+-V range at
high water.