Crooked River
Location - Terrebone, Oregon
Difficulty - Class III-IV Length - 18-22 miles
Level - 2,200 cfs Date - 4/24-25/2010


















The Crooked River rises in the Ochoco
Mountains of central Oregon, a modest range
covered with stands of Ponderosa and open
meadows. As the river heads downstream it
leaves the mountains and incises a narrow and
ever deepening canyon through an area of
extensive plains. Since the early 1800’s when
emigrants first began arriving in the area people
relied on the river not only for watering
themselves and their animals, but increasingly,
for irrigation purposes.
By the middle of the twentieth century large
dams blocked the Deschutes and Crooked
Rivers while an extensive network of reservoirs
and canals were also created in the headwaters
of these rivers. The goal of this system is to
store and manage the water of these
watersheds primarily for irrigation purposes.
The result is a greatly reduced flow regime in
the Crooked River. The large Prineville
Reservoir, situated just downstream of the
Ochoco Mountains, ensures that all snowmelt
from the highlands is impounded and diverted
through the canal system and into local farms.
The result is that the lower canyons on the Crooked, which happen to be those
that hold some truly classic whitewater, rarely see flows adequate for boating.
Boatable conditions are only found when rapid snowmelt, preferably combined
with a rare desert rainfall, overwhelm the system and fill the reservoir beyond
capacity. When this happens the dam operators release water into the river,
often for only a few days to a few weeks, and a whitewater treasure is born.
Unfortunately, it is often years between boatable flows are seen.
The Crooked ran high and for a few weekends in a row in 2006, the spring
before I moved to Oregon. Then, for the next three years, it ran at low flows for
just a few days each spring. This was strange, especially considering the
massive snowpacks of 2008. With this news, we had little hope for the Crooked
after the surprisingly dry winter of 2010. However, the low snowpack led to
reservoir managers allowing the Prineville reservoir to fill. This fact, following by
late season snows and rains rose the river, forcing the excess water to be
released into the Crooked. I went biking the first Sunday it ran and was pretty
sure I would be missing this elusive river again, but come the following week, the
river was holding steady at 2,200 to 2,300 cfs. . Luckily, a big group of boaters
was heading over to the dry side of the Cascades for a weekend of paddling.
I met Mark up in the snow on Santiam Pass, where we ditched his car before
heading down through the Ponderosa Forests above Sisters, Oregon and onto
the large plains between the Deschutes and Crooked Rivers. We met up with
the others just outside of Redmond and drove to the takeout, which is at the rim
of the canyon on the edge of the fancy golf course at the Crooked River Ranch.
It didn’t seem quite right to be ending a classic whitewater trip at a golf course,
but it is one of the few places to escape the canyon and it sure did seem unlikely
that we would be broken into here.
After changing into paddling gear we packed into the rigs and cruised back to
the put in a few miles upstream of Smith Rock State Park. The bridge here is
surrounded by private land and even though the small little park here looks
inviting, it is probably best avoided. As it is, you still have to scramble around a
wire fence and slide into the river from under the road bridge. Our group was at
least twelve boaters strong so it took a while to get everyone launched and
moving downstream. Once going, we faced a few miles of paddling flatwater into
a strong headwind. It was clear that this was not going to be a short day on the
river. Eager to reach the rapids below, we all did our best to move steadily
through the flats, entertained by circling raptors, a few ground hogs, and a
healthy population of herons.
After several miles of flatwater leading through a shallow, though steep walled mini canyon, the Crooked rounds a few bends and
approaches a concrete aqueduct carrying Deschutes River water across the canyon of the Crooked. After paddling under the bridged
aqueduct a pumping station is also passed and the first stretch of whitewater is reached.
The first stretch of rapids are set in a deepening basalt canyon and consist of splashy and pushy class III-IV wave trains lasting for nearly
two miles. At 2,200 cfs this stretch is fairly continuous and while it hold some fairly juicy holes it is relatively straightforward and easily
boat scouted. On Saturday we entered Initiation after paddling several miles of flatwater and battling a headwind and it seemed pretty
challenging. On Sunday, we made the semi legal put in at the aqueduct, skipping the flatwater, and ran this stretch in calm, 60 degree
sunshine, making it feel more like an easy warm up than a tricky opening set of rapids. What a difference a day can make.
Regardless, the first stretch of rapids is quite fun and should have everyone in your group believing that this is a great whitewater river.
That will be important, because for the next two miles the Crooked River becomes totally flat once again as it winds its way through the
incredibly scenic Smith Rock State Park. What the river lacks in excitement it makes up for with some of the most impressive desert
scenery to be found anywhere in Oregon. Walls of rhyolite rise above the meandering river with colorfully dressed climbers pawing and
pulling at every crack and route available. After making a giant loop around this erosion resistant chunk of rock the impressive monolithic
pillar, known as Monkey Face, comes into view, marking the end of your paddle through this impressive geological site.
Once you pass Monkey Face the river runs smooth for another quarter mile or so before splashing through a class II rapid and reaching
its first river wide horizon line. This marks Number One, and making the easy rive right scout is really a pretty good idea. Rapid Number
One contains a big hole that takes just about all of the main flow. It would really be pretty awful to boat scout this one and end up getting
a beat down when the scout is so easy. The two options are to go, you guessed it, right or left of the hole, with far river right being a bit
trashy. Most everyone ran nice lines both days, with a couple of close calls and maybe a roll or two. Still, rapid Number One is a solid
class IV and the move around the hole isn’t as easy as it might be.
After Number One you will undoubtedly be fired up to run some more whitewater. Hold on though, another mile of flats stands between
your excited little self and Number Two, the next fun rapid. Number Two consists of a class III lead in to an island with rather steep ledges
on each side. On Saturday most everyone ran down the right through two somewhat shallow and rather uninteresting ledges with solid
holes broken by a few weaker spots. I paddled away with a smile, but wasn’t particularly impressed. On Sunday, I ended up following
Steve down river left and found the line I’ll always run through this drop from now on.
“There’s nothing that will hurt you, just head down the left side of the island, stay right of a big hole. You want to miss the first hole, and
move back to the left and then to the right again, kind of like an airplane turn. There a hole at the bottom, but its not big deal.”
With beta like that, its always wise to just follow someone, which I did with great results. We bombed down the top of the drop and skirted a
big hole just to the right, at which point the rest of the line becomes an obviously twisting course around a few hydraulics at the bottom of
the drop. This line was much cleaner and bigger than river right and a lot of fun, but it was very helpful to follow someone to the right of the
first big hole as it looks like no big deal from above.
After Number Two the run quickly becomes more continuous as a long and fun stretch of read and run class III, known as The Bumps, picks
up and takes off downstream. Lots of splashy waves, some big rocks, and a few holes keep things interesting and sort of lure you into a
steady rhythm. This rhythm is great, but it shouldn’t draw you into complete complacency, because a larger drop takes off quickly around a
blind left hand turn somewhere in the midst of this stretch.
Whap De Doodle, despite its sort of stupid sounding name, is really one of the most fun rapids on the whole river. As the river turns sharply
left it also steepens and narrows as it plunges into this drop. The best line moves from left to right. As you run the drop your downstream
view is basically obscured by the busy, chaotic waves, but you can see enough to think that the whole river is about to plunge into a huge
hole. Happily, it doesn’t do this, instead dropping over a giant pourover that somehow produced no reversal.
Below Whap De Doodle the river moves along through quickly flowing water with frequent class II/III rapids and great canyon scenery. In
fact, one of the most notable features of this next mile or so is that the canyon is getting much deeper and the rim rock increasingly
imposing. After passing a huge old Ponderosa Pine on river right, complete with an eagle’s nest, the river makes its way under the Highway
97 bridges and passes an extensive series of springs pouring water into the river from the seemingly solid basalt walls on river left.
These springs also mark the start of a continuous series of class III-IV
rapids that lasts for the nest 2 to 3 miles as the river drops around
boulders and over ledges, creating lots of boat scoutable
entertainment. This is one of the best stretches of whitewater on a
larger river in the state so be sure to enjoy it while it lasts because it
could be a few years before the Crooked runs again. Few rapids in this
series stand out from the rest, but all are highly entertaining and a
couple hold a sneaky hole or two.
Although most of the people in our group has not been on the Crooked
before, some had, and a combination of their stories and what we had
gleaned from guidebooks made us all a bit wary of No Name, arguably
the toughest rapid on the run. No Name is pretty tough to recognize
from above, but basically a busy little rapid leads into a left hand turn
with some vertical cliff walls on river left and an increase in the gradient
that is somewhat, but not strikingly apparent. We had the advantage of
following those that had done the river before into a river right eddy
above this long rapid.
The scout involves a bit of a walk, but it is pretty easy and also lets you
watch others run the rapid, which can be pretty entertaining. Basically a
class III rapid builds to class IV before dropping through a midstream
hole a couple of hundred yards or so from the start of the rapid. The
lead in to the hole is pretty fast and the lines on either side are pretty
slim. River right looked tricky to me, but easier to get to than the more
open river left line so I gave it a go. From the top landmarks a bit tricky,
but I managed to stay upright, online, and oriented, so making the drive
from left to right above the hole and into the eddy next to it was a
smooth affair.
We had a truly huge group on the river this Saturday and saw a variety
of lines, with some going right some going left, a few sneak lines, a
couple of portages, and one run right down the middle, resulting in a
flip, but no beating. A solo run in a shredder did result in a spectacular
flip followed by a somewhat nasty swim through the rock and lengthy
run out. Luckily no gear was lost and for the most part, everyone was
just fine. Getting through No Name was definitely the psychological crux
of the day and everyone relaxed and enjoyed the last few miles of
whitewater to the take out above China Dam.
A couple of folks ran the old dam on river right, but the majority were
happy to take out on river left and make the mile long climb up the old,
abandoned Hollywood Road on river left. It was a solid schlep, but the
views back down into the canyon were great and the promise of beers
at the takeout made it pass quickly enough. I think the dogs in the
shuttle rigs were as excited to see us as we were to see the top of the
canyon.
On Sunday I found myself portaging around China Dam while the
others all ran it without problems. What can I say? I don’t like running
old dams that have almost drowned people in the past. On our second
day down the Crooked we had started at the Aqueduct and were
paddling on beyond the normal takeout and heading another 4 miles
or so to Opal Springs.
Bellow China Dam the river remains narrow and runs through a quarter
mile of pushy, solid class IV whitewater that is arguable every bit as
tough as China Dam itself. Still, it’s a natural riverbed here and at least
the water was acting “normal”. We wove our way down and around
some big old waves and holes having a heck of a time. I even found a
lost raft oar and stashed it up on shore for the owners to hopefully find
on foot sometime in the future. This stretch of the river was a lot of fun,
and although the intensity of the rapids soon diminished, the scenery
remained spectacular, with many springs pumping water in on river left.
The river did calm down to class II-III, but the just when we were
wanting a bit more it threw another solid class IV at us in the form of
The V Wave, a surprisingly steep and narrow drop into a mess of
waves with a strainer getting into the act on river left. Steve ended up
probing this one blind, and we all quickly followed, bombing through
the pushy water and smiling in the runout.
After The Wave, the Crooked definitely settles down into a more
mellow pace as it continues to flow through an impressive canyon cut
almost a thousand feet into the surrounding plains. River left remains
full of gushing springs and the shorelines are more heavily wooded
than before, meaning a fair number of logs in the water. It was
somewhere in this stretch that our small group on Sunday was joined
by the most friendly Canadian Goose ever. It landed right in the midst
of us and floated along with our kayaks, through rapids and over
waves, for the better part of a mile, even coming close enough to touch
on several occasions. Whether or not it was stupid, confused, or just
curious, I don’t know, but it sure wasn’t wary.
Eventually we outpaced the friendly goose and made our way down
the final few miles of river to the small impoundment at the Opal
Springs dam. Although a few miles of free flowing river remained
before the Crooked is silenced under the water of Lake Billy Chinook,
we would be taking out here and making the mile and a half long hike
out of the canyon. Interestingly, there is a rough dirt landing here that
would be suitable for rafts and drift boats, probably created by some
mandate that came with the licensing of the dam. What was lacking
was motor vehicle access to the river.
And so the pain began. Instead of taking off my drysuit I decided just to
get after the walk so the boat was shouldered and the march
commenced. The first quarter mile or so is easy as the dirt road follows
the river downstream. Despite the easy walking this gives your
shoulder just enough to start aching. Then the road doubled back and
took off steeply for the rim, some 800 to a 1,000 feet above. The road
really steep, but soon the top was drawing near and I started to count
the steps to the finish. Then it happened, the agony of a “false
summit”. What I thought was the top of the canyon was just a bench
about 2/3 of the way up. “No soup for you!” Another half mile to go.
“Git er done.”
It was pretty heinous for a minute or two, but eventually a cool breeze
brushed across my sweat soaked head and the snow capped
Cascades popped into view as we took the final steps up and out of
the Crooked River Canyon and crossed a small dirt turnaround to
reach the vehicles. What a view and what a weekend.
After the first mile and a half of continuous whitewater, the Crooked calmly flows around the spectacular cliffs at
Smith Rock State Park.
One of the easier stretches in the first mile and a half of rapids on the Crooked.
The long stretch of rapids known as Warm Up winds down as the rivers enters Smith Rock State Park.
- photo by Eric Emerson
Mark working hard to miss the big hole dominating the center of the river at rapid Number One on the Crooked.
Many of the rapids on the Crooked feature a big and pushy features in a surprisingly shallow river bed.
The river flattens out below Number One and remains placid until the next drop a mile or so downstream.
Rapid Number Two is a distinct drop with lines on either side of a rocky island. The best line is on river left while the
river right side is pictured here.
Whap De Doodle looks big from above and even bigger on your way down through the rapid. Running it blind was
super fun, but many opted for the easy scout.
The Shredder misses the pourover that looks like a giant hole from above, but somehow, is not.
On Saturday our crew grew to over 15 by the time we stopped for lunch below Whap De Doodle. The bright sunshine
belies the chilly temperatures and steady upstream wind.
What a difference a day makes! On Sunday we are a mile below Whap De Doodle in the warm sun with scarcely even
a breeze to remind us of the day before.
The scenery is gorgeous from put in to take out on the Crooked, but the second half
features a surprisingly deep and pristine canyon.
No Name is the defining rapid of the trip. The lead in is pictured here and it is just long and tricky enough to make
lining up for a big, nearly river wide hydraulic, a bit tricky.
Steve's line past the big hole worked just fine, but I bet he was wishing he were a bit closer to the eddy!
Dan and Roman are all smiles in the eddy below the big hole at No Name.
The river is calm at the Hollywood Road take out as it is pooled up behind the
broken and tricky China Dam. The climb up from here is tough work.
The Cascades look large over the plains that the Crooked and Deschutes Rivers have cut their canyons into.
The hike up the rim of the canyon on Hollywood Road is a bit of a grunt, but it paled in comparison to the mile and a half
long, thousand foot climb up from Opal Springs. Mt Jefferson watches over us in the background.