Deer River
Location - Saint Lawrence Co, NY
Difficulty - Class III-IV (IV+) Length - 4 to 8 miles
Level - Various
Date - 1999-2001
When most people think about New York State images of endless
concrete and masses of people spring into their minds. While it is a
fact that New York City has a greater population than any other
metropolitan area in the country, much of the state is rural. Far to
the north lies the Adirondack Mountains, which rise like an upside
down bowl from the surrounding lowlands. These mountains are
home to some of the largest wild areas remaining in the eastern
United States and numerous lakes in the high country give rise to
rivers that radiate out from the center of the range like the spokes
on a wheel.
The rivers that flow north from the Adirondacks towards the St
Lawrence River are particularly remote and wild, often feeling like
they would be more at home in northern Canada than in New York
State.
The northern slope of the Adirondacks is generally gradual and not as dramatic as one might
assume, but the generally ledgy geology gives rise to rivers and creeks that feature enormous
pool and drop rapids with big sliding waterfalls being the norm. While there are many high
quality rivers to be run in the northern Adirondacks, there is a definite lack of boaters to
paddle them. A high quality class IV-V run devoid of other kayaks was not an uncommon
occurrence, with the Deer River being particularly off of the beaten path and out of the minds
of paddlers.
What the Deer River lacks in recognition, it makes up for in a diversity of quality whitewater.
While I was at St Lawrence University there was a solid group of paddlers eager to explore new
rivers. Our only resource for finding new runs was word of mouth, an old guide to canoe routes
in the Adirondacks, and an atlas and gazetteer. The canoe guide would often focus on
flatwater reaches, but it thoroughly detailed all of the major rivers flowing into the St Lawrence.
Since many of the rivers in this area are pool and drop to the extreme, lots of the runs are fine
for flatwater boaters willing to portage the massive drops. The short descriptions of the
whitewater were quite outdates, but basically, if the book described class V or class VI
whitewater it generally meant you could expect to find class IV-V rapids. These are generally
the areas that we focused on.
To reach the Deer River, a string of somewhat confusing dirt roads are followed into the big
woods of the northern Adirondacks until you reach a bridge over the river. This is the takeout
that was described to us in the book, but options exist for lengthening or shortening the run.
The put in is farther up a dirt road at the next bridge over the Deer where there is a
maintained pull out and an unofficial campground popular with hunters, fishermen, and
partiers.
The first thing you will notice at the put in is that the river is running a deep tea colored brown
with clumps of thick foam swirling in the slow currents of the flatwater. This can be
disconcerting at first, but the color and the foam is the result of tannins and other minerals
leached into the water from pine needles decomposing in an acidic soil. The second thing you
will notice is a complete lack of whitewater. Not to worry, the flatwater is temporary and there is
plenty of excitement on this run.
The Deer starts out placid, with a few class II and III rapids leading downstream through a
series of flat stretched until the roar of the first larger drop is reached. This first rapid typifies
the somewhat bizarre nature of the pool drop ledge runs in northern New York. The granite
ledges essentially dam up the river and water pours over the drops in channels that have
been eroded. Often multiple channel exist through each rapid and the fault patterns in the
bedrock can lead to these channels rejoining at angles perpendicular to the main flow.
At the first ledge the river appears to disappear into an island, but
there are three channels here. The left and center routes steeply
drop 7 or 8 feet and tend to be shallow and have pin potential at
lower levels. The most interesting route swings off to the right
before spilling over a 3 or 4 foot drop and hooking back 180
degrees on itself in a narrow channel carved into bedrock that
holds a hole which looks worse than it is. The three channels
shortly rejoin and the river drops through a class III run out that
can hold a significant hydraulic at higher levels.
A few class II and a shallow class III rapid follow but peter out into a
sizeable stretch of alder lined flatwater. Just when you start to feel
like this is run is going to be more trouble than it is worth, the river
picks up the pace and a series of fun ledges come in quick
succession. The first rapid is a class III with a sweet four foot boof
on river left and a couple of nice holes.
The heart of the ledge section of the run is up next, with four or
five solid class III+-IV drops in the next quarter mile. The ledges
range in height from 6 to 15 feet and they tend to be lower angled
slides with man offset holes and some fun narrow passages. At
higher flows the holes can become quite large and they are best
avoided. There are several islands in this section and as a rule of
thumb paddlers should stay to river right at all of them. While
some of our other favorite runs in the northern Adirondacks
contain huge ledge drops, the Deer provides some smaller, class
IV drops that make for a nice change of pace.
After this section of rapids the river briefly settles down into a
wider calm spot that then picks up into a shallow class II rapid
which is divided by a rapid. It is important to run down the narrow
channel here on the far left. This channel leads into what is
arguable the best part of the run, the creeky section of the Deer
River. Unless you are sure that the lines are not blocked by
strainers it is wise to eddy out on the left to scout this section.
About four hundred yards of tight boulder jumbled class IV leads
to a twelve foot falls that can kick up a sticky river wide hydraulic at
times. Before we owned proper creek boats, running this stretch of
river in playboats was always exciting.
The whole stretch drops well over 150 fpm and contains roughly
four main drops complete with holes, pitons, and pin spots that will
be apparent when you scout. On our first runs a strainer half way
down made for a tricky move and provided a good bit of
excitement. After these four drops the last twelve foot ledge is
best run river left to avoid the stickiest part of the hole.
After the falls you are essentially at what was usually our most
popular takeout, but a nice rapid lies immediately below the falls.
Here the river briefly spreads out and drops steeply through a
somewhat trashy rapid into a mini canyon with a cool sliding boof
on river right and a pad piton spot in the middle of the drop. It is
also possible to run left of the pin spot for a somewhat easier line.
While we generally took out here, more rapids lay downstream after a significant stretch of
flatwater. Below the next rapid bridge a long and fun class III+ gets steeper as it goes on and
ends in an abrupt class IV drop. Some more whitewater follows to yet another bridge and the
small village of Dickinson Center. Here the Deer River drops steeply through a series of
ledges and some remnants of old mill works. This is at least a solid class IV drop and it can
create some big holes. If you decide to run this drop you can take out on river left below the
rapids in town or continue through widening and braiding class II+ whitewater to the route 11 B
highway bridge. It is even possible to paddle farther downstream through a breaded cobble
bottomed river that is much larger and holds come bigger water class II-III and the possibility
for many strainers.
The final half mile of the Deer River becomes continuous creeky class IV whitewater that was always a lot of
fun, especially since none of us owned creek boats when we used to paddle the run.
Mike running the fun boulder filled rapids near the end of the run that we
typically paddled on the Deer River.
Despite the poor picture quality, Mike can be seen paddling through a few large holes as he makes his way
towards the final twelve foot ledge in this stretch of river.
Tyler finishing up a busy stretch of the Deer River in northern New York. This fun run was fairly close to school
and a perpetual favorite with a nice variety of rapids.
Mike running the fun ledge that came after the long section of steeper,
boulder filled rapids at the end of the Deer River's best stretch.
Spring boating in New York is often very cold. This picture was taken at low water on the Deer just after ice
out in early April.
The first half of the Deer River in northern New York features many fun ledges typical of the area. These class
IV rapids can develop some pretty big holes at higher flows.