Day One - Trout Creek to Windy Flat
Michelle and I weren’t able to leave Eugene until 9:30 Wednesday night and
the late night drive to central Oregon was a tiring blur. Eventually we passed
though Madras and began searching for the first of a series of turns that would
lead us down many back roads to the put in at Trout Creek. Cruising through
the flat farmland of Agency Plains in the pitch black while navigating from the
gazetteer was tricky, but eventually found the two mile long washboard road
that lead steeply down into the canyon of the Deschutes River before dead
ending at the put in. For detailed directions to Trout Creek click here. The
display of stars at the put in was astounding, but we were too tired to enjoy this
for very long.
I woke up just before seven in the morning to cool temperatures and amazing
pre-sunrise light. While Michelle slept a little longer I went for a walk and
enjoyed the high desert landscape. The river was fairly narrow here at Trout
Creek and the current looked powerful and fast. A few Juniper trees were
scattered across the area and the river banks held a handful of trees, but for
the most part only low bushes of sagebrush and small plants grew in the desert.
Loading the canoe was a simple matter since we only had gear for four days
and three nights. Click here to see our packing list for this trip. We managed
to carry all of our gear in two dry barrels and one small dry bag backpack.
While the river was supposed to be fairly smooth and easy to paddle, we
avoided bringing much unnecessary gear because of the long portage around
Sherars's Falls that we would be making half way through the run. While
strapping gear into our boat a guy taking pictures at the put in approached us
and asked in a concerned voice if we knew that there were rapids in the
downstream. We assured him that everything was fine, but he still seemed
skeptical about the ability of our canoe to handle the river.
the late night drive to central Oregon was a tiring blur. Eventually we passed
though Madras and began searching for the first of a series of turns that would
lead us down many back roads to the put in at Trout Creek. Cruising through
the flat farmland of Agency Plains in the pitch black while navigating from the
gazetteer was tricky, but eventually found the two mile long washboard road
that lead steeply down into the canyon of the Deschutes River before dead
ending at the put in. For detailed directions to Trout Creek click here. The
display of stars at the put in was astounding, but we were too tired to enjoy this
for very long.
I woke up just before seven in the morning to cool temperatures and amazing
pre-sunrise light. While Michelle slept a little longer I went for a walk and
enjoyed the high desert landscape. The river was fairly narrow here at Trout
Creek and the current looked powerful and fast. A few Juniper trees were
scattered across the area and the river banks held a handful of trees, but for
the most part only low bushes of sagebrush and small plants grew in the desert.
Loading the canoe was a simple matter since we only had gear for four days
and three nights. Click here to see our packing list for this trip. We managed
to carry all of our gear in two dry barrels and one small dry bag backpack.
While the river was supposed to be fairly smooth and easy to paddle, we
avoided bringing much unnecessary gear because of the long portage around
Sherars's Falls that we would be making half way through the run. While
strapping gear into our boat a guy taking pictures at the put in approached us
and asked in a concerned voice if we knew that there were rapids in the
downstream. We assured him that everything was fine, but he still seemed
skeptical about the ability of our canoe to handle the river.
We peeled out of the put in eddy and within a quarter mile were
confronted with the first rapids of the trip. Upper Trout Creek was
a simple class II that could have been run anywhere while Lower
Trout Creek was a heavier class II+ plus that demanded some
attention and route finding ability. The Deschutes was flowing at
4,400 cfs which meant that even the easy rapids contained large
waves and powerful currents. Despite the high volume, the
nature of the river is such that most rapids are found in bends
and have shallow lines on the inside of the curves. We ran a dry
line down river right at Lower Trout Creek and hardly took on any
water at all. For much of the trip we would find ourselves working
out way downstream by hugging the shallower inside of corners,
preferring the more technical shallow lines to the heavier main
channels. While open canoes can run surprisingly large
whitewater, we did not want to swamp the fully loaded boat while
alone on the river, so we relied on its extreme maneuverability to
negotiate shallow lines through many of the rapids that other craft
would be unable to navigate.
Below the first rapid the Deschutes ran for ten miles through a
relatively open but remote valley surrounded by pretty low hills,
small cliffs, and a scattering of cabins. All through this section the
land on river left belongs to the Warm Springs Indian Reservation
and trespassing is not allowed. This enormous reservation is
virtually road free and while a few jeep trails make their way to the
water, the lack of public access keeps the left bank pristine.
Despite the train tracks and trails on river right much of this first
stretch of river feels surprisingly remote.
For the entire first ten miles a strong current and steady paddling
moved us along quickly. We passed several fishermen and a two
rafts. On hearing of our plans to paddle 90 miles to the mouth of
the Deschutes in four days both groups of rafters made skeptical
remarks and told us that we better hurry up. While we effortlessly
slipped away with smooth and rhythmic strokes they labored with
long oars and wrenches their backs pulling along hundreds of
pounds of coolers and lawn chairs. I love rafting as much as the
next person, in fact I worked as a raft guide for ten years, but the
disrespect our little canoe was drawing from these guys was
getting ridiculous.
Eleven miles into the trip we reached what would be the biggest
test of our craft on this first day. Whitehorse Rapids is a long
section of whitewater that begins with a few hundred yards of
heavy class III before easing into almost a mile of class II and II+
water. We eddied out on river right and climbed up a well worn
path to the train tracks from where we could make a scout. The
river was set in a pretty little gorge here with a canyon wall rising a
hundred feet or so above the train tracks on river right. While
scouting an upstream breeze picked up as the string desert sun
heated the air well into the eighties.
At first glance the large waves and holes of Whitehorse and steep
brushy banks suggested a portage along the train tracks, but a
closer inspection of the rapids showed that an easier and more
exciting alternative was possible. While river right was deep and
powerful, the left side of the river spread out among some low
rocky islands and dropped through a maze of boulders. While
munching on an assortment of lunch foods spread out in the sun
Michelle and I discussed our plan for running down the far left
side of Whitehorse Rapids. The width of the river and grassy
islands prevented us from picking a specific line, but the lower
volume over there would give us time to boat scout and react to
any unanticipated obstacles.
confronted with the first rapids of the trip. Upper Trout Creek was
a simple class II that could have been run anywhere while Lower
Trout Creek was a heavier class II+ plus that demanded some
attention and route finding ability. The Deschutes was flowing at
4,400 cfs which meant that even the easy rapids contained large
waves and powerful currents. Despite the high volume, the
nature of the river is such that most rapids are found in bends
and have shallow lines on the inside of the curves. We ran a dry
line down river right at Lower Trout Creek and hardly took on any
water at all. For much of the trip we would find ourselves working
out way downstream by hugging the shallower inside of corners,
preferring the more technical shallow lines to the heavier main
channels. While open canoes can run surprisingly large
whitewater, we did not want to swamp the fully loaded boat while
alone on the river, so we relied on its extreme maneuverability to
negotiate shallow lines through many of the rapids that other craft
would be unable to navigate.
Below the first rapid the Deschutes ran for ten miles through a
relatively open but remote valley surrounded by pretty low hills,
small cliffs, and a scattering of cabins. All through this section the
land on river left belongs to the Warm Springs Indian Reservation
and trespassing is not allowed. This enormous reservation is
virtually road free and while a few jeep trails make their way to the
water, the lack of public access keeps the left bank pristine.
Despite the train tracks and trails on river right much of this first
stretch of river feels surprisingly remote.
For the entire first ten miles a strong current and steady paddling
moved us along quickly. We passed several fishermen and a two
rafts. On hearing of our plans to paddle 90 miles to the mouth of
the Deschutes in four days both groups of rafters made skeptical
remarks and told us that we better hurry up. While we effortlessly
slipped away with smooth and rhythmic strokes they labored with
long oars and wrenches their backs pulling along hundreds of
pounds of coolers and lawn chairs. I love rafting as much as the
next person, in fact I worked as a raft guide for ten years, but the
disrespect our little canoe was drawing from these guys was
getting ridiculous.
Eleven miles into the trip we reached what would be the biggest
test of our craft on this first day. Whitehorse Rapids is a long
section of whitewater that begins with a few hundred yards of
heavy class III before easing into almost a mile of class II and II+
water. We eddied out on river right and climbed up a well worn
path to the train tracks from where we could make a scout. The
river was set in a pretty little gorge here with a canyon wall rising a
hundred feet or so above the train tracks on river right. While
scouting an upstream breeze picked up as the string desert sun
heated the air well into the eighties.
At first glance the large waves and holes of Whitehorse and steep
brushy banks suggested a portage along the train tracks, but a
closer inspection of the rapids showed that an easier and more
exciting alternative was possible. While river right was deep and
powerful, the left side of the river spread out among some low
rocky islands and dropped through a maze of boulders. While
munching on an assortment of lunch foods spread out in the sun
Michelle and I discussed our plan for running down the far left
side of Whitehorse Rapids. The width of the river and grassy
islands prevented us from picking a specific line, but the lower
volume over there would give us time to boat scout and react to
any unanticipated obstacles.
After lunch we hopped in the canoe and ferried above the top of the
drop to river left. From above it was obvious that we would be dealing
with a steep and shallow class II line through many rocks. With much
backpaddling and maneuvering we slide around and over some rocks
before entering a dead end channel that terminated in a pile of rocks.
We eddied out, lined the lightly loaded canoe over the rocks, and
continued on our way, rejoining the main channel and running a long
stretch of deep and powerful class II+ rapids. One of the great things
about canoes is that they draw about an inch of water and can easily be
slid over and around rocks and maneuvered through the tiniest of
passages. Where a larger boat may only see one line through a rapid,
in the canoe we have many options available to us. Also, if a drop is
too difficult it is simple to unload and portage or to line the fully loaded
yet passengerless boat through the a rapid. Excited by our fun line
through Whitehorse rapids we played in the runout rapids and enjoyed
the desert scenery as the Deschutes began to cut its way through the
gorgeous Mutton Mountains in an increasingly scenic canyon.
drop to river left. From above it was obvious that we would be dealing
with a steep and shallow class II line through many rocks. With much
backpaddling and maneuvering we slide around and over some rocks
before entering a dead end channel that terminated in a pile of rocks.
We eddied out, lined the lightly loaded canoe over the rocks, and
continued on our way, rejoining the main channel and running a long
stretch of deep and powerful class II+ rapids. One of the great things
about canoes is that they draw about an inch of water and can easily be
slid over and around rocks and maneuvered through the tiniest of
passages. Where a larger boat may only see one line through a rapid,
in the canoe we have many options available to us. Also, if a drop is
too difficult it is simple to unload and portage or to line the fully loaded
yet passengerless boat through the a rapid. Excited by our fun line
through Whitehorse rapids we played in the runout rapids and enjoyed
the desert scenery as the Deschutes began to cut its way through the
gorgeous Mutton Mountains in an increasingly scenic canyon.
The further we went, the more dramatic the landscape became. A
stiff headwind provided cool breezes and did little to slow us since
the river flows at a stiff pace. Shortly below Whitehorse Rapids
we were lucky enough to see a group of gorgeous horses grazing
by the edge of the river. After watching the beautiful animals for a
while we paddled on and passed cliffs of spectacular columnar
basalt deposited by lava flows that moved through the area
thousands of years ago.
Although no more rapids lay in store for us on this first day of the
trip, the steady current moved us along at a good clip and we
soon found ourselves nearing the end of the day's paddle as the
river made a sharp bend to the west and entered the most scenic
canyon of the trip so far. Although a private gated dirt road ran
along the river's eats bank, the feel here was one of peaceful
seclusion. This was the first desert canyon I had ever paddled
through and the views around each corner amazed me. Basically
I would be in a constant state of awe for the remainder of the trip.
The brown hills rose nearly a thousand feet above the river and
bands of broken rock gave a true canyon like appearance. The
river is never truly enclosed by cliffs, in fact the steep slopes are
usually a ways back from the water, but being on the Deschutes
definitely gives paddlers a sense of isolation. Despite the
extremely dry climate, the river banks are an oasis supporting the
growth of shrubs, small trees, and many grasses. As our first day
on the water drew to a close we slowed down, enjoyed rest stops,
and visited many campsites in search of the perfect home for the
evening.
Although camping on this section of the river is restricted to
designated sites, the river was essentially empty on this autumn
Thursday and we had our choice of places to stay. Eventually we
settled on a flat and well established site at Windy Flat. Steep
hillsides rose across the river from our camp, a grove of trees
provided shade on our side of the Deschutes, and quarter mile of
flatter ground extended behind camp to open hills and impressive
cliffs. A primitive road ran behind our site and a cabin could be
seen a half mile away downstream, but the area was incredible
quiet and peaceful. Several trains rumbled past that afternoon
and throughout the night, but the brief disturbances were a small
price to pay for getting to spend the day in such an amazing
place.
Both of us were surprised when light started to fade rapidly
around 7:30 that evening. Just as we were getting ready to pack
things up for the night Michelle glimpsed movement in the corner
of her eye. Sure enough, a small black tailed deer had wandered
from the trees and into the open only thirty yards away from
where we were finishing with dinner. For the next half hour we
watched about six or seven deer move through the area, paying
very little attention to us at all. It was much too dark for a picture,
but some of the deer came surprisingly close to where we were
sitting. Soon darkness had descended and even our well
adjusted eyes could no longer make out the shapes of the deer.
There was no moon, a bank of clouds had rolled in, and the
darkness was complete.
We crawled into the tent and managed to read for a while before
drifting off to sleep. I think four trains passed through the canyon
during the night, but each only kept us awake for a few minutes at
a time.
stiff headwind provided cool breezes and did little to slow us since
the river flows at a stiff pace. Shortly below Whitehorse Rapids
we were lucky enough to see a group of gorgeous horses grazing
by the edge of the river. After watching the beautiful animals for a
while we paddled on and passed cliffs of spectacular columnar
basalt deposited by lava flows that moved through the area
thousands of years ago.
Although no more rapids lay in store for us on this first day of the
trip, the steady current moved us along at a good clip and we
soon found ourselves nearing the end of the day's paddle as the
river made a sharp bend to the west and entered the most scenic
canyon of the trip so far. Although a private gated dirt road ran
along the river's eats bank, the feel here was one of peaceful
seclusion. This was the first desert canyon I had ever paddled
through and the views around each corner amazed me. Basically
I would be in a constant state of awe for the remainder of the trip.
The brown hills rose nearly a thousand feet above the river and
bands of broken rock gave a true canyon like appearance. The
river is never truly enclosed by cliffs, in fact the steep slopes are
usually a ways back from the water, but being on the Deschutes
definitely gives paddlers a sense of isolation. Despite the
extremely dry climate, the river banks are an oasis supporting the
growth of shrubs, small trees, and many grasses. As our first day
on the water drew to a close we slowed down, enjoyed rest stops,
and visited many campsites in search of the perfect home for the
evening.
Although camping on this section of the river is restricted to
designated sites, the river was essentially empty on this autumn
Thursday and we had our choice of places to stay. Eventually we
settled on a flat and well established site at Windy Flat. Steep
hillsides rose across the river from our camp, a grove of trees
provided shade on our side of the Deschutes, and quarter mile of
flatter ground extended behind camp to open hills and impressive
cliffs. A primitive road ran behind our site and a cabin could be
seen a half mile away downstream, but the area was incredible
quiet and peaceful. Several trains rumbled past that afternoon
and throughout the night, but the brief disturbances were a small
price to pay for getting to spend the day in such an amazing
place.
Both of us were surprised when light started to fade rapidly
around 7:30 that evening. Just as we were getting ready to pack
things up for the night Michelle glimpsed movement in the corner
of her eye. Sure enough, a small black tailed deer had wandered
from the trees and into the open only thirty yards away from
where we were finishing with dinner. For the next half hour we
watched about six or seven deer move through the area, paying
very little attention to us at all. It was much too dark for a picture,
but some of the deer came surprisingly close to where we were
sitting. Soon darkness had descended and even our well
adjusted eyes could no longer make out the shapes of the deer.
There was no moon, a bank of clouds had rolled in, and the
darkness was complete.
We crawled into the tent and managed to read for a while before
drifting off to sleep. I think four trains passed through the canyon
during the night, but each only kept us awake for a few minutes at
a time.
Sunrise over the buttes near the trout Creek put in on the Deschutes
River made for a spectacular start to our trip.
River made for a spectacular start to our trip.
Michelle paddling along a flat stretch of the Deschutes River early on day one. The hills on
this first part of the river were relatively small and set back from the water.
this first part of the river were relatively small and set back from the water.
Scouting class III Whitehorse Rapids from the railroad grade on river right showed we
would be able to run a shallow line far to river left.
would be able to run a shallow line far to river left.
Below Whitehorse Rapids nearly a mile of fun class II rapids extended downstream as the Deschutes made its way through the scenic Mutton
Mountains. Here Michelle rests while we load up after bailing out water accumulated from running the larger rapids just upstream.
Mountains. Here Michelle rests while we load up after bailing out water accumulated from running the larger rapids just upstream.
A group of gorgeous horses drinking from the river greeted us on the first day. We
were not sure whether these horses were wild, but they were quite calm.
were not sure whether these horses were wild, but they were quite calm.
The Mutton Mountains provided a spectacular backdrop for the second
half of the first day's paddling.
half of the first day's paddling.
Cliffs of columnar basalt from ancient lava flows began to line the river more
frequently as the Deschutes carved into progressively deeper canyons.
frequently as the Deschutes carved into progressively deeper canyons.
Here I am standing at a gravel beach above an impressive canyon wall very near
where we ended up camping on our first night out.
where we ended up camping on our first night out.
Our first nights camp had plenty of space, shade, solitude, and incredible views.
Relaxing here was great and even chopping food for dinner seemed enjoyable.
Relaxing here was great and even chopping food for dinner seemed enjoyable.
Our first day on the river saw us covering 22 miles with relative ease.
We were encouraged by this progress, and certain that it would be no
trouble to complete the trip by Sunday afternoon. Even with several
big rapids ahead, the river seemed as though it would be wide,
offering sneak channels and options. The fact that we saw so few
people on our first day was enjoyable as this section of the river
reportedly sees a tremendous amount of use during the peak summer
months and on weekends. This was the first summer in ten years I
had not been on a long multi-day expedition in Canada and I was very
glad to have this opportunity to get out on the water for trip, albeit a
short one. The desert terrain was new and exciting for me and
Michelle was having a great time. It was with much anticipation that we
waited for the rapids we would encounter tomorrow and the canyons
of the lower Deschutes River below Sherar's Falls. For the entire day
I couldn't get the image of cowboys and gun battles out of my head as
we floated through this remote landscape that had changed so little
since the area was first settled by non-natives in the mid 1800's. The
sense of history was deep and being back on the river was a great
feeling.
We were encouraged by this progress, and certain that it would be no
trouble to complete the trip by Sunday afternoon. Even with several
big rapids ahead, the river seemed as though it would be wide,
offering sneak channels and options. The fact that we saw so few
people on our first day was enjoyable as this section of the river
reportedly sees a tremendous amount of use during the peak summer
months and on weekends. This was the first summer in ten years I
had not been on a long multi-day expedition in Canada and I was very
glad to have this opportunity to get out on the water for trip, albeit a
short one. The desert terrain was new and exciting for me and
Michelle was having a great time. It was with much anticipation that we
waited for the rapids we would encounter tomorrow and the canyons
of the lower Deschutes River below Sherar's Falls. For the entire day
I couldn't get the image of cowboys and gun battles out of my head as
we floated through this remote landscape that had changed so little
since the area was first settled by non-natives in the mid 1800's. The
sense of history was deep and being back on the river was a great
feeling.