Day Two - Windy Flat to Buckhollow
Last night's clouds helped hold in some heat and Friday morning dawned warm and
clear. I snuck out of the tent early and photographed the desert landscape in the
magical morning light. The group of deer we had seen last night were close by and
I was able to get some nice pictures of them by stalking close. Michelle was awake
soon and I boiled up water for coffee and tea. Since we only planned on paddling
twenty miles to the takeout above Sherar's Falls a leisurely morning was enjoyed
and we paddled away from camp shortly after 9:00 am.
Shortly below camp the river made a series of curves and passed some of the
prettiest canyon terrain we had seen yet. Fast class I water swept us downstream
and we were encouraged to float along for a few miles with relatively little paddling.
It is in this stretch that the Deschutes passes the former community of Dant, now
recognized by two small summer camps and a ferry boat that runs across the river n
cable suspended between the two banks. The tiny village formed in the 1940's
when Perilite was discovered at the site and a mine was created high on the hillside
above the river. Today all that remained of the mine was a rusted shack at the
head of the mine shaft clinging precariously to the mountain. Shortly below we
came to the first class III rapid of the day, Buckskin Mary.
By standing in the canoe I was able to see that the rapid was little more than a
powerful tongue with some big crashing waves, but it seemed a little too heavy for
our loaded open boat. We paddled into a shallow river left channel and followed it
until it spread out through a pile of rocks. We stepped out of the canoe and I saw
that it would be very easy to line the boat down the rest of the way down the shallow
channel to the eddy at the bottom of the rapid. Passing Buckskin Mary only took
about fifteen minutes, but by the time we were at the bottom the sun was very strong
and quickly warming temperatures into the eighties. The swirly water at the base of
the rapid was tough to paddle through, but we were soon on our way downstream.
clear. I snuck out of the tent early and photographed the desert landscape in the
magical morning light. The group of deer we had seen last night were close by and
I was able to get some nice pictures of them by stalking close. Michelle was awake
soon and I boiled up water for coffee and tea. Since we only planned on paddling
twenty miles to the takeout above Sherar's Falls a leisurely morning was enjoyed
and we paddled away from camp shortly after 9:00 am.
Shortly below camp the river made a series of curves and passed some of the
prettiest canyon terrain we had seen yet. Fast class I water swept us downstream
and we were encouraged to float along for a few miles with relatively little paddling.
It is in this stretch that the Deschutes passes the former community of Dant, now
recognized by two small summer camps and a ferry boat that runs across the river n
cable suspended between the two banks. The tiny village formed in the 1940's
when Perilite was discovered at the site and a mine was created high on the hillside
above the river. Today all that remained of the mine was a rusted shack at the
head of the mine shaft clinging precariously to the mountain. Shortly below we
came to the first class III rapid of the day, Buckskin Mary.
By standing in the canoe I was able to see that the rapid was little more than a
powerful tongue with some big crashing waves, but it seemed a little too heavy for
our loaded open boat. We paddled into a shallow river left channel and followed it
until it spread out through a pile of rocks. We stepped out of the canoe and I saw
that it would be very easy to line the boat down the rest of the way down the shallow
channel to the eddy at the bottom of the rapid. Passing Buckskin Mary only took
about fifteen minutes, but by the time we were at the bottom the sun was very strong
and quickly warming temperatures into the eighties. The swirly water at the base of
the rapid was tough to paddle through, but we were soon on our way downstream.
Immediately following Buckskin Mary came a few easy class II
or II+ rapids with numerous lines that we quickly ran without
scouting. The nest eight miles of river moved very quickly and
with steady paddling we knocked them off in about an hour
and a half. The Deschutes Club gatekeepers house was
passed and the road on river right was now open to the public.
Fishermen became more frequent and an occasional vehicle
rumbled down the road as we approached the town of Maupin
and the most concentrated section of rapids on the river.
Soon we found ourselves entering a class II rapid leading
around a right turn just above Wapinitia Rapids, reportedly a
heavy class III. Steep rock walls rose up on river right and we
eddied out just above the main drop to scout. From shore I
could see the extent of the drop. A large midstream outcrop
of rock divided the current with a powerful tongue on the right
side ending a large wavetrain. Running our canoe straight
down the tongue would certainly result in us swamping and
dumping, but dry lines existed through the rapid.
or II+ rapids with numerous lines that we quickly ran without
scouting. The nest eight miles of river moved very quickly and
with steady paddling we knocked them off in about an hour
and a half. The Deschutes Club gatekeepers house was
passed and the road on river right was now open to the public.
Fishermen became more frequent and an occasional vehicle
rumbled down the road as we approached the town of Maupin
and the most concentrated section of rapids on the river.
Soon we found ourselves entering a class II rapid leading
around a right turn just above Wapinitia Rapids, reportedly a
heavy class III. Steep rock walls rose up on river right and we
eddied out just above the main drop to scout. From shore I
could see the extent of the drop. A large midstream outcrop
of rock divided the current with a powerful tongue on the right
side ending a large wavetrain. Running our canoe straight
down the tongue would certainly result in us swamping and
dumping, but dry lines existed through the rapid.
The obvious line was to head into the tongue driving hard to the left to avoid the
wavetrain. The only trick would be maintaining a strong right to left angle in
order to miss a second large boulder at the bottom of the drop. Michelle looked
skeptical, but I was pretty sure of our ability to make the line. We peeled out of
the eddy and I pried hard to keep a strong left angle while Michelle paddle
forward. We passed the edge of a hole extending our form the first midstream
boulder and started powering forward, but the current leading into the drop was
much stronger than I had anticipated. It was quickly obvious that there was no
way to miss the first wave that was fast approaching. The our bow dropped
down sharply before bucking up as we slammed into the six foot wave. The
power of the wave coupled with our speed threw Michelle out of her seat, but
she somehow managed to maintain her balance. With a hard brace I kept the
canoe upright and we managed to stay relatively dry and drive left of the boulder
at the bottom of the drop. We were both completely exhilarated when we eddied
out and bailed water below Wapinitia. I've run some exciting lines in open boats
before and this turned out to be one of the most interesting.
Boxcar Rapids followed shortly below and we pulled into a shallow river right
channel above the rapid to look things over. On standing up I saw a significant
drop and a diagonal hole, making the decision to line through the large river
right boulders a no brainer. I am sure a line existed, but after the excitement
above we had no problem lining the canoe around this large class III. A long
section of class II/II+ rapids followed Boxcar and we ran fun lines being sure to
stay just out of the main channel which contained some large waves. Halfway
through this stretch we eddied out on river right and enjoyed an hour long lunch
in the shade of some riverside trees.
After lunch a mile of fastwater brought us under the Route 197 bridge as we
passed through the town of Maupin. In town a plush looking rafting resort
beckoned, but we paddled on, eager to get back to the solitude afforded by the
river. Luckily, Maupin is so tiny that in five minutes there were few signs of town.
Although a road would be following the river for the next eight miles on river
right, we only saw a few cars, and the pavement proved useful for a few
portages.
The next major rapid is called Surf City and while it only rates as class II+ the line
we choose forced us into the main channel near the bottom and we had to work
hard to run only the edges of two large waves. A large shallow eddy allowed us
to pull over, bail some water, and check the maps. Just around the corner lay
Oak Springs Rapid, a stout class III+ that I had seen pictures off prior to the trip.
Just as the river accelerated around the right bend we found a trail leading a
short distance to the road and we pulled over to scout. Again, the river was
divided into two channels by a huge chuck of lava rock. The river right side
dropped about five to eight feet into a big hole, while the left side ran down some
shallow ridges of ledge. The right side was clearly unrunnable for our loaded
canoe, and while it may have been possible to line the left side, the ease of
portaging along the road made this the most desirable option.
On the first trip we brought the gear around the drop and carefully worked our
way down a narrow and steep path down to an eddy below the main drop at Oak
Springs. While Michelle waited I went back and came along with the canoe. The
trail was too steep to carry the boat down so I body belayed it with our throwbag
to Michelle. Once the portage was made we loaded up and ran the long and fun
runout of Oak Spring. Fun class II followed for about a mile to White River
Rapids. This large tributary flowing from glaciers on Mt Hood enters the
Deschutes a milky white color due to the heavy silt load. Upper and Lower
Elevator Rapids came next and while these were not memorable rapids the
narrow channel cut through hardened lava made for some powerful boils and
funny water through this section. Before we knew it we had reached the take out
above Sherar's Falls at Sandy Beach. A small metal sign noted that farther
downstream was prohibited and we obliged by pulling out at a nice large beach
on river right. Originally I had planned on camping here for the night, but a
mistake on the Bureau of Lane Management information sheet meant we would
have to find alternative plans.
wavetrain. The only trick would be maintaining a strong right to left angle in
order to miss a second large boulder at the bottom of the drop. Michelle looked
skeptical, but I was pretty sure of our ability to make the line. We peeled out of
the eddy and I pried hard to keep a strong left angle while Michelle paddle
forward. We passed the edge of a hole extending our form the first midstream
boulder and started powering forward, but the current leading into the drop was
much stronger than I had anticipated. It was quickly obvious that there was no
way to miss the first wave that was fast approaching. The our bow dropped
down sharply before bucking up as we slammed into the six foot wave. The
power of the wave coupled with our speed threw Michelle out of her seat, but
she somehow managed to maintain her balance. With a hard brace I kept the
canoe upright and we managed to stay relatively dry and drive left of the boulder
at the bottom of the drop. We were both completely exhilarated when we eddied
out and bailed water below Wapinitia. I've run some exciting lines in open boats
before and this turned out to be one of the most interesting.
Boxcar Rapids followed shortly below and we pulled into a shallow river right
channel above the rapid to look things over. On standing up I saw a significant
drop and a diagonal hole, making the decision to line through the large river
right boulders a no brainer. I am sure a line existed, but after the excitement
above we had no problem lining the canoe around this large class III. A long
section of class II/II+ rapids followed Boxcar and we ran fun lines being sure to
stay just out of the main channel which contained some large waves. Halfway
through this stretch we eddied out on river right and enjoyed an hour long lunch
in the shade of some riverside trees.
After lunch a mile of fastwater brought us under the Route 197 bridge as we
passed through the town of Maupin. In town a plush looking rafting resort
beckoned, but we paddled on, eager to get back to the solitude afforded by the
river. Luckily, Maupin is so tiny that in five minutes there were few signs of town.
Although a road would be following the river for the next eight miles on river
right, we only saw a few cars, and the pavement proved useful for a few
portages.
The next major rapid is called Surf City and while it only rates as class II+ the line
we choose forced us into the main channel near the bottom and we had to work
hard to run only the edges of two large waves. A large shallow eddy allowed us
to pull over, bail some water, and check the maps. Just around the corner lay
Oak Springs Rapid, a stout class III+ that I had seen pictures off prior to the trip.
Just as the river accelerated around the right bend we found a trail leading a
short distance to the road and we pulled over to scout. Again, the river was
divided into two channels by a huge chuck of lava rock. The river right side
dropped about five to eight feet into a big hole, while the left side ran down some
shallow ridges of ledge. The right side was clearly unrunnable for our loaded
canoe, and while it may have been possible to line the left side, the ease of
portaging along the road made this the most desirable option.
On the first trip we brought the gear around the drop and carefully worked our
way down a narrow and steep path down to an eddy below the main drop at Oak
Springs. While Michelle waited I went back and came along with the canoe. The
trail was too steep to carry the boat down so I body belayed it with our throwbag
to Michelle. Once the portage was made we loaded up and ran the long and fun
runout of Oak Spring. Fun class II followed for about a mile to White River
Rapids. This large tributary flowing from glaciers on Mt Hood enters the
Deschutes a milky white color due to the heavy silt load. Upper and Lower
Elevator Rapids came next and while these were not memorable rapids the
narrow channel cut through hardened lava made for some powerful boils and
funny water through this section. Before we knew it we had reached the take out
above Sherar's Falls at Sandy Beach. A small metal sign noted that farther
downstream was prohibited and we obliged by pulling out at a nice large beach
on river right. Originally I had planned on camping here for the night, but a
mistake on the Bureau of Lane Management information sheet meant we would
have to find alternative plans.
To this point all campsites had been clearly marked from the
river and the maps and info sheet I downloaded from the BLM
website had been accurate. The problem was I was now
staring at many no camping signs posted all around Sandy
Beach despite the fact that our info sheet said there was a fee
campground here. It was now after 3:00pm, it was quite hot
out, and we were at a gorgeous beach we could not camp at.
My initial inclination was to hang out and camp here anyways,
but the thought of getting hassled by authorities or locals
coming to party on a Friday night made it tempting to continue
along. The only problem was that we now faced a 2.5 mile long
portage around Sherar's Falls, a large class V drop falling
twenty feet through a sheer walled canyon. The next
established BLM site is the put in at Buckhollow, a site also
noted as not being available for camping.
After ten minutes of deliberation we decided to continue along,
make the portage, and search for a legal campsite farther
downstream. The portage here was long enough to warrant
carrying heavier loads in order to only make one trip around
the falls. I shouldered by gear barrel before flipping up our
canoe and setting out on the carry. After trudging up to the
road it was a long flat walk on the side of a paved backroad.
With shoulders burning and the boat swaying in the steady
breeze I put my head down and suffered along, looking at a
mile of smooth and fast river interrupted only by one class III
rapid. While it frustrating to be portaging a stretch of water that
could have been paddled in ten minutes, we wanted to play by
the rules. After a quick rest the top of Sherar's falls came into
view and we walked another half mile to a point where we could
look down at the big drop.
Sherar's Falls is a place of historical significance. Natives from
the Warm Springs Reservation continue to practice an age old
tradition of dip netting spawning salmon out of the river while
perched on sketchy wood scaffolding built out over the base of
the falls from the canyon walls. The site also served as a
crossing point for early settlers to the area and remains the
location of one of two road bridges along the entire 100 mile
length of the lower Deschutes River.
The second half of our portage felt much easier and we noticed
a significant change in the terrain. The Deschutes now flowed
through a deeper canyon as hills rose nearly a thousand feet
on each side of the river. Again we were looking down on a
smooth flowing river, but steep canyon walls prevented us from
getting down to the river before the designated put in at
Buckhollow.
river and the maps and info sheet I downloaded from the BLM
website had been accurate. The problem was I was now
staring at many no camping signs posted all around Sandy
Beach despite the fact that our info sheet said there was a fee
campground here. It was now after 3:00pm, it was quite hot
out, and we were at a gorgeous beach we could not camp at.
My initial inclination was to hang out and camp here anyways,
but the thought of getting hassled by authorities or locals
coming to party on a Friday night made it tempting to continue
along. The only problem was that we now faced a 2.5 mile long
portage around Sherar's Falls, a large class V drop falling
twenty feet through a sheer walled canyon. The next
established BLM site is the put in at Buckhollow, a site also
noted as not being available for camping.
After ten minutes of deliberation we decided to continue along,
make the portage, and search for a legal campsite farther
downstream. The portage here was long enough to warrant
carrying heavier loads in order to only make one trip around
the falls. I shouldered by gear barrel before flipping up our
canoe and setting out on the carry. After trudging up to the
road it was a long flat walk on the side of a paved backroad.
With shoulders burning and the boat swaying in the steady
breeze I put my head down and suffered along, looking at a
mile of smooth and fast river interrupted only by one class III
rapid. While it frustrating to be portaging a stretch of water that
could have been paddled in ten minutes, we wanted to play by
the rules. After a quick rest the top of Sherar's falls came into
view and we walked another half mile to a point where we could
look down at the big drop.
Sherar's Falls is a place of historical significance. Natives from
the Warm Springs Reservation continue to practice an age old
tradition of dip netting spawning salmon out of the river while
perched on sketchy wood scaffolding built out over the base of
the falls from the canyon walls. The site also served as a
crossing point for early settlers to the area and remains the
location of one of two road bridges along the entire 100 mile
length of the lower Deschutes River.
The second half of our portage felt much easier and we noticed
a significant change in the terrain. The Deschutes now flowed
through a deeper canyon as hills rose nearly a thousand feet
on each side of the river. Again we were looking down on a
smooth flowing river, but steep canyon walls prevented us from
getting down to the river before the designated put in at
Buckhollow.
Just above Buckhollow we met a Forest Service employee stationed out of a
small camper that was checking fishermen leaving the river at this point. This
guy verified that camping was illegal at Sandy Beach and at Buckhollow, but he
pointed us towards a few sandy beaches on river left within a mile of the put in.
We finished off the portage, eagerly loaded the cane again, and quickly
paddled away tired and eager to find a place to crash for the night. The only
thing we were happy about was having the portage out of the way. It was only
5:30 pm and we still had a few hours of daylight to find our camp, make dinner,
and relax.
Immediately below Buckhollow we were into fast and powerful water again
looking for the sandy beaches we had been told about. Within a quarter mile
the Deschutes flowed through a narrow vertical walled canyon of columnar
basalt before opening up again. The lower canyons were already much more
impressive those we have see before, but we were hopeful that the beaches
would make for good camping. We checked out a small site, but determined it
was too small. We pushed on, tired and ready to stop, but found ourselves
committed to running a class II drop. At the bottom of the rapid we spotted a
patch of sand and immediately eddied out to investigate. Although not large,
the beach was adequate for a tent and we decided to stop for the night.
It was already 6:00 so we quickly unloaded the boat, set the tent out to dry, and
scoped out the site more thoroughly. Thick grass grew just behind the beach,
but a large area had been trampled down, evidence that people had camped
here before. Many deer runs weer found behind the beach and circular
depressions in the grass showed where deer had bedded down not long ago.
The small beach was sloped and I set about leveling a spot for the tent with my
paddle. Five minutes of work produced a serviceable site for our shelter and in
hardly anytime the tent was up. Despite a small dirt access road on river right
and a surprising number of trucks headed to a lower put in the deep canyon
provided a sense of isolation.
small camper that was checking fishermen leaving the river at this point. This
guy verified that camping was illegal at Sandy Beach and at Buckhollow, but he
pointed us towards a few sandy beaches on river left within a mile of the put in.
We finished off the portage, eagerly loaded the cane again, and quickly
paddled away tired and eager to find a place to crash for the night. The only
thing we were happy about was having the portage out of the way. It was only
5:30 pm and we still had a few hours of daylight to find our camp, make dinner,
and relax.
Immediately below Buckhollow we were into fast and powerful water again
looking for the sandy beaches we had been told about. Within a quarter mile
the Deschutes flowed through a narrow vertical walled canyon of columnar
basalt before opening up again. The lower canyons were already much more
impressive those we have see before, but we were hopeful that the beaches
would make for good camping. We checked out a small site, but determined it
was too small. We pushed on, tired and ready to stop, but found ourselves
committed to running a class II drop. At the bottom of the rapid we spotted a
patch of sand and immediately eddied out to investigate. Although not large,
the beach was adequate for a tent and we decided to stop for the night.
It was already 6:00 so we quickly unloaded the boat, set the tent out to dry, and
scoped out the site more thoroughly. Thick grass grew just behind the beach,
but a large area had been trampled down, evidence that people had camped
here before. Many deer runs weer found behind the beach and circular
depressions in the grass showed where deer had bedded down not long ago.
The small beach was sloped and I set about leveling a spot for the tent with my
paddle. Five minutes of work produced a serviceable site for our shelter and in
hardly anytime the tent was up. Despite a small dirt access road on river right
and a surprising number of trucks headed to a lower put in the deep canyon
provided a sense of isolation.
Our meal this night consisted of Indian Food packets scooped
up with tortilla shells, an unlikely dinner at home, but delicious
on a river trip. We made up some hot drinks, filtered water,
and enjoyed the cool evening air and impressive canyon views
as the sun set. Looking downstream was particularly
impressive, with high canyon walls rising above the water and
hiding the river's course. The sense of mystery created by the
canyon ahead called to us and made us excited to continue on
in the morning to see what lay ahead.
Luckily, only one or two trains passed by during the night and
we both slept well. Only once did I leave the tent at night to
relive myself and the display of stars was quite impressive.
Also impressive were the number of spiders out and about on
the cool sand or our beach. Not particularly liking spiders my
stargazing was short lived. The only other eventful thing that
happened during the night was the steady erosion of our tiny
beach. Throughout the night we could hear clumps of wet
sand slumping and falling away into the river. We joked about
the tent getting washed away, but I clearly remember times I
have seen rivers several feet in a few short hours. The
Deschutes is tightly regulated by dams and I figured we had
little worry about in the way of rising water levels.
up with tortilla shells, an unlikely dinner at home, but delicious
on a river trip. We made up some hot drinks, filtered water,
and enjoyed the cool evening air and impressive canyon views
as the sun set. Looking downstream was particularly
impressive, with high canyon walls rising above the water and
hiding the river's course. The sense of mystery created by the
canyon ahead called to us and made us excited to continue on
in the morning to see what lay ahead.
Luckily, only one or two trains passed by during the night and
we both slept well. Only once did I leave the tent at night to
relive myself and the display of stars was quite impressive.
Also impressive were the number of spiders out and about on
the cool sand or our beach. Not particularly liking spiders my
stargazing was short lived. The only other eventful thing that
happened during the night was the steady erosion of our tiny
beach. Throughout the night we could hear clumps of wet
sand slumping and falling away into the river. We joked about
the tent getting washed away, but I clearly remember times I
have seen rivers several feet in a few short hours. The
Deschutes is tightly regulated by dams and I figured we had
little worry about in the way of rising water levels.
Sunrise over the canyon on day two was a spectacular way to start
what would turn out to be a great day on the river.
what would turn out to be a great day on the river.
The high hills above our campsite at Windy Flat were an awesome
site in the morning light.
site in the morning light.
Sunrise over the canyon on day two was a spectacular way to start
what would turn out to be a great day on the river.
what would turn out to be a great day on the river.
Michelle looks back for the camera as we paddle out of the eddy at the bottom of Buckskin
Mary Rapids, a heavy class III rapid that we lined on river left.
Mary Rapids, a heavy class III rapid that we lined on river left.
Here I am relaxing during lunch on day two with part of the long set
of class II rapids following Boxcar Rapids.
of class II rapids following Boxcar Rapids.
The runout of Oak Springs Rapids are seen below us as we
complete the portage around the steep class III+ drop.
complete the portage around the steep class III+ drop.
Michelle rests on the 2.5 mile long portage around Sherar's Falls seen in the background.
Near the end of the portage around Sherar's Falls we had our first glimpses of the
spectacular canyons of the lower Deschutes River.
spectacular canyons of the lower Deschutes River.
Leveling a tent site on the beach at our day two campsite was a
necessary job taking about ten minutes.
necessary job taking about ten minutes.
As the sun sets the deep lower canyons of the Deschutes River beckon. For the next two
days we would be treated to consistently spectacular scenery.
days we would be treated to consistently spectacular scenery.