Day two - Below Granite Rapid to
Tryon Camp
Tryon Camp
Having gone to bed early last night, I woke up pretty early and was eager to get a little
hike in with Middie before the others were stirring. I went through the morning routine
of putting contact lenses in and brushing teeth and then I went to get out of the tent.
That is when, I am ashamed to say, my legs first felt like they had been through an
ultra marathon. Now lets get one thing straight. I’ve seen many harder days of
canoeing than yesterday, but it had been so long since I had knelt in my boat and
fallen around on slippery rocks that the lower half of my body felt absolutely brutalized.
Luckily the kinks were worked out as I filtered some water and got ready for our hike.
The deeply folded grassy ridges towering above camp could have provided hours or
even days worth of hiking, so I was forced to set my sights on an intermediate knoll
about half way up the hills that were visible from the bottom of the canyon. This looked
to be about 1,500 above the river and the walking looked open and easy. Middie and I
started out, soon crossing a path and heading up through a rocky area to the base of
the hillside. We quickly found a game trail and huffed our way up the slope, which
turned out to be way steeper than we had anticipated. With each foot of elevation
gained the views up and down the canyon expanded and became more spectacular. A
group of deer, spooked by a hiker on the path below, started making their way up a
parallel ridge and we jumped another lone deer a few hundred feet higher up. Keeping
the dog leashed was probably wise. Eventually we came to the prominent little point I
had selected as our goal for the hike and by this time the tents down below were
nothing but tiny specks. Despite the early hour it was already hot out and I was very
glad that the sun had not yet risen to a point where it was striking the hillside.
Ever since moving to the west I have been amazed by the diversity packed into small
areas as a result of microclimates, and Hells Canyon is a prime example of this. At river
level the landscape is decidedly desert, with Prickly Pear cactus and few if any trees
and extremely low amounts of rainfall. However, as you ascend the hills that comprise
the canyon walls the elevation gain means more precipitation and more vegetation.
While I did not climb high enough to walk into the Ponderosa Pine forests found at
higher elevations in this area I was able to look up and catch a glimpse of the darker
crown on the hills above created by these trees.
hike in with Middie before the others were stirring. I went through the morning routine
of putting contact lenses in and brushing teeth and then I went to get out of the tent.
That is when, I am ashamed to say, my legs first felt like they had been through an
ultra marathon. Now lets get one thing straight. I’ve seen many harder days of
canoeing than yesterday, but it had been so long since I had knelt in my boat and
fallen around on slippery rocks that the lower half of my body felt absolutely brutalized.
Luckily the kinks were worked out as I filtered some water and got ready for our hike.
The deeply folded grassy ridges towering above camp could have provided hours or
even days worth of hiking, so I was forced to set my sights on an intermediate knoll
about half way up the hills that were visible from the bottom of the canyon. This looked
to be about 1,500 above the river and the walking looked open and easy. Middie and I
started out, soon crossing a path and heading up through a rocky area to the base of
the hillside. We quickly found a game trail and huffed our way up the slope, which
turned out to be way steeper than we had anticipated. With each foot of elevation
gained the views up and down the canyon expanded and became more spectacular. A
group of deer, spooked by a hiker on the path below, started making their way up a
parallel ridge and we jumped another lone deer a few hundred feet higher up. Keeping
the dog leashed was probably wise. Eventually we came to the prominent little point I
had selected as our goal for the hike and by this time the tents down below were
nothing but tiny specks. Despite the early hour it was already hot out and I was very
glad that the sun had not yet risen to a point where it was striking the hillside.
Ever since moving to the west I have been amazed by the diversity packed into small
areas as a result of microclimates, and Hells Canyon is a prime example of this. At river
level the landscape is decidedly desert, with Prickly Pear cactus and few if any trees
and extremely low amounts of rainfall. However, as you ascend the hills that comprise
the canyon walls the elevation gain means more precipitation and more vegetation.
While I did not climb high enough to walk into the Ponderosa Pine forests found at
higher elevations in this area I was able to look up and catch a glimpse of the darker
crown on the hills above created by these trees.
Today I was pleased to find that the rapids became somewhat less frequent and
easier in comparison to those upstream, although they remained numerous
enough to make the run interesting. The river on day two was really perfectly
suited to canoe tripping and the easier water gave me the chance to really work
on getting the dog comfortable in the canoe. There were still rapids that would
have easily swamped and flipped my boat had I run the meat of them and moves
were required to skirt some large wave trains, but everything was boat scoutable
and really fun.
Not far below camp a large side creek spilled into the Snake and we passed a
huge campsite with a nice sand beach. As we eddied out a fisherman was in the
process of landing a large White Sturgeon nearly six feet long. The Snake River
through Hells Canyon, along with the Columbia River below the Bonneville Dam
are two of the last places in the world that harbor healthy populations of this
largest freshwater fish species in North America. At one time fifteen foot
specimens were not uncommon, but overharvesting and the creation of dams
have drastically reduced numbers through the northwest. Historically the Sturgeon
is an andromonous species, meaning that it spends part of its life in freshwater
and part of its life in salt water. With the creation of dams throughout the
Columbia and Snake River System, the ocean going part of the Sturgeons’ life
was eliminated and many were cut off from spawning grounds. Not reaching the
open sea means that food supplies are limited for populations in certain locations,
but Hells Canyon appears to be capable of sustaining a stable and healthy
population of Sturgeon, although a strict catch and release policy is in place to
help preserve these prehistoric beasts. With lifespans of up to 150 years, some of
the White Sturgeon caught by anglers in Hells Canyon were around before the
dams and had the privilege of making the trip to the Pacific and back numerous
times.
The miles rolled by easily this morning and I think we all felt more relaxed and
settled into the trip. The scenery remained spectacular, with broken hillsides and
rock walls rising directly from the river, and the heat was on. The canyon’s rugged
terrain has been notorious since this part of the world was first explored by Lewis
and Clark in the 1805 and 1806 when natives warned them of the gorge. The duo
heeded the advice of the locals and chose to bypass Hells Canyon. A side
excursion by several of their men on the return trip of 1806 brought them as far
upstream as the confluence of the Snake and the Salmon, and their report
described the land as “a high broken montanous country” where the riverbanks
were “in most places solid and perpendicular rocks, which rise to a great height.”
While they do not elaborate on their description, it is telling that this party chose
to explore no farther.
Today the canyon retains much of its wild character, but it does have a rich
human history. One of the best stories from a river runner’s perspective has to be
of the first steamboat descent of the canyon. In 1865 Capt John Ainsworth had a
steamship built on the upper reaches of the Snake River to transport people and
good. This venture quickly proved unprofitable and when gold was discovered
lower on the Snake Ainsworth decided that it would be lucrative to have his boat
on the lower river. In 1869 a crew was hired to bring the ship through Hells
Canyon to Lewiston, Idaho or, since the steamer was of no use upstream, to
“wreck her in the attempt.”
easier in comparison to those upstream, although they remained numerous
enough to make the run interesting. The river on day two was really perfectly
suited to canoe tripping and the easier water gave me the chance to really work
on getting the dog comfortable in the canoe. There were still rapids that would
have easily swamped and flipped my boat had I run the meat of them and moves
were required to skirt some large wave trains, but everything was boat scoutable
and really fun.
Not far below camp a large side creek spilled into the Snake and we passed a
huge campsite with a nice sand beach. As we eddied out a fisherman was in the
process of landing a large White Sturgeon nearly six feet long. The Snake River
through Hells Canyon, along with the Columbia River below the Bonneville Dam
are two of the last places in the world that harbor healthy populations of this
largest freshwater fish species in North America. At one time fifteen foot
specimens were not uncommon, but overharvesting and the creation of dams
have drastically reduced numbers through the northwest. Historically the Sturgeon
is an andromonous species, meaning that it spends part of its life in freshwater
and part of its life in salt water. With the creation of dams throughout the
Columbia and Snake River System, the ocean going part of the Sturgeons’ life
was eliminated and many were cut off from spawning grounds. Not reaching the
open sea means that food supplies are limited for populations in certain locations,
but Hells Canyon appears to be capable of sustaining a stable and healthy
population of Sturgeon, although a strict catch and release policy is in place to
help preserve these prehistoric beasts. With lifespans of up to 150 years, some of
the White Sturgeon caught by anglers in Hells Canyon were around before the
dams and had the privilege of making the trip to the Pacific and back numerous
times.
The miles rolled by easily this morning and I think we all felt more relaxed and
settled into the trip. The scenery remained spectacular, with broken hillsides and
rock walls rising directly from the river, and the heat was on. The canyon’s rugged
terrain has been notorious since this part of the world was first explored by Lewis
and Clark in the 1805 and 1806 when natives warned them of the gorge. The duo
heeded the advice of the locals and chose to bypass Hells Canyon. A side
excursion by several of their men on the return trip of 1806 brought them as far
upstream as the confluence of the Snake and the Salmon, and their report
described the land as “a high broken montanous country” where the riverbanks
were “in most places solid and perpendicular rocks, which rise to a great height.”
While they do not elaborate on their description, it is telling that this party chose
to explore no farther.
Today the canyon retains much of its wild character, but it does have a rich
human history. One of the best stories from a river runner’s perspective has to be
of the first steamboat descent of the canyon. In 1865 Capt John Ainsworth had a
steamship built on the upper reaches of the Snake River to transport people and
good. This venture quickly proved unprofitable and when gold was discovered
lower on the Snake Ainsworth decided that it would be lucrative to have his boat
on the lower river. In 1869 a crew was hired to bring the ship through Hells
Canyon to Lewiston, Idaho or, since the steamer was of no use upstream, to
“wreck her in the attempt.”
The first captain hired was turned back at Copper Creek Falls, now buried by the
Hells Canyon Dam. Apparently he was not willing to risk his life by wrecking the
boat at the falls. Angered, Ainsworth hired Captain Syrus Smith to complete the
job. Undeterred by the falls, the captain steamed through, smashing an 8 foot
section of the bow in the process. Several days later repairs were complete and
the ship arrived in Lewiston much to everyone’s surprise. Debris from the
smashed bow had washed by and people in the downstream settlements assumed
the boat has sunk and all were drowned.
I hoped I wouldn’t be smashing in an 8 foot section of my canoe since the whole
thing only measures in at 15 feet. So far seems things like they would work out just
fine. More great scenery followed and we paddled for a few hours in ever
increasing heat to a Forest Service station at a restored sheep ranch on river
right. We explored this area for about an hour and enjoyed lunch and swimming
until three jetboats rumbled into the beach and let out about 60 people to check
out the historic farm. The crowd compelled me to wake up Middie, load her into the
canoe, and move on downstream to a more secluded beach to wait for the others.
Later that afternoon, after paddling lots of easy and scenic quickwater we reached
Pittsburg Landing, the first take out that is commonly used to exit Hells Canyon and
the end of the section of river designated Wild and Scenic. Although permitting for
floating from this point down is much less stringent we would end up seeing far less
people. Some of the group stopped here to use a restroom, but I continued around
the bend and again choose to relax on a cobble beach with Middie.
Hells Canyon Dam. Apparently he was not willing to risk his life by wrecking the
boat at the falls. Angered, Ainsworth hired Captain Syrus Smith to complete the
job. Undeterred by the falls, the captain steamed through, smashing an 8 foot
section of the bow in the process. Several days later repairs were complete and
the ship arrived in Lewiston much to everyone’s surprise. Debris from the
smashed bow had washed by and people in the downstream settlements assumed
the boat has sunk and all were drowned.
I hoped I wouldn’t be smashing in an 8 foot section of my canoe since the whole
thing only measures in at 15 feet. So far seems things like they would work out just
fine. More great scenery followed and we paddled for a few hours in ever
increasing heat to a Forest Service station at a restored sheep ranch on river
right. We explored this area for about an hour and enjoyed lunch and swimming
until three jetboats rumbled into the beach and let out about 60 people to check
out the historic farm. The crowd compelled me to wake up Middie, load her into the
canoe, and move on downstream to a more secluded beach to wait for the others.
Later that afternoon, after paddling lots of easy and scenic quickwater we reached
Pittsburg Landing, the first take out that is commonly used to exit Hells Canyon and
the end of the section of river designated Wild and Scenic. Although permitting for
floating from this point down is much less stringent we would end up seeing far less
people. Some of the group stopped here to use a restroom, but I continued around
the bend and again choose to relax on a cobble beach with Middie.
The afternoon grew very hot after this quick stop and we floated into a prominent
canyon, one of the more scenic on the trip. A long class III rapid led into the gorge
and we were able to easily skirt the biggest of the waves. Just as I entered into
the rapid a roar cam from upstream as a jet boat approached the rapids. I was
worried it wouldn’t see me and plow through the quarter mile stretch of whitewater
without slowing down, but the driver was very courteous and eddied out upstream
while I paddled through. Once safely eddied out behind a big boulder below the
rapid the jet boat roared to life and came smashing down through the narrow
canyon, only to be quickly followed by one roaring upstream several minutes
later. Just when we were starting to think that this would get old in a hurry
complete silence fell over the canyon and stayed with us for the majority of the
rest of the day.
canyon, one of the more scenic on the trip. A long class III rapid led into the gorge
and we were able to easily skirt the biggest of the waves. Just as I entered into
the rapid a roar cam from upstream as a jet boat approached the rapids. I was
worried it wouldn’t see me and plow through the quarter mile stretch of whitewater
without slowing down, but the driver was very courteous and eddied out upstream
while I paddled through. Once safely eddied out behind a big boulder below the
rapid the jet boat roared to life and came smashing down through the narrow
canyon, only to be quickly followed by one roaring upstream several minutes
later. Just when we were starting to think that this would get old in a hurry
complete silence fell over the canyon and stayed with us for the majority of the
rest of the day.
We floated lazily along for a few hours in the scorching afternoon heat while
lounging around and enjoying the views of towering cliff walls and rugged hillsides.
Soon it became time to start looking for camp. We pulled over on river left and
scouted a potential spot which would have worked, but decided we could do better
by continuing along to a marked camp that was reportedly superb. The river
through Hells Canyon is actually fairly straight and while there are many landmarks
form water level the map does not give away easily recognized features. This
made it a little tough to find our camp, but a quick was all it took to locate the best
campsite on the river.
The night’s camp was about as well shaded as a spot could get in Hells Canyon
and it sat up on a bluff overlooking a nice rapid just downstream. Tent sites were
plentiful and there was even a picnic table here which let us cook dinner and hang
out in style. A swim was absolutely mandatory in the heat of the afternoon, and
that was followed by some lounging around and a quick walk downstream to check
out a massive dead sturgeon that Scott has spotted earlier. After this short walk I
headed upstream for some distance and climbed a steep hill of loose rock to get a
vantage point of the canyon, which was particularly impressive in the low angled
evening light.
lounging around and enjoying the views of towering cliff walls and rugged hillsides.
Soon it became time to start looking for camp. We pulled over on river left and
scouted a potential spot which would have worked, but decided we could do better
by continuing along to a marked camp that was reportedly superb. The river
through Hells Canyon is actually fairly straight and while there are many landmarks
form water level the map does not give away easily recognized features. This
made it a little tough to find our camp, but a quick was all it took to locate the best
campsite on the river.
The night’s camp was about as well shaded as a spot could get in Hells Canyon
and it sat up on a bluff overlooking a nice rapid just downstream. Tent sites were
plentiful and there was even a picnic table here which let us cook dinner and hang
out in style. A swim was absolutely mandatory in the heat of the afternoon, and
that was followed by some lounging around and a quick walk downstream to check
out a massive dead sturgeon that Scott has spotted earlier. After this short walk I
headed upstream for some distance and climbed a steep hill of loose rock to get a
vantage point of the canyon, which was particularly impressive in the low angled
evening light.
Back at camp we cooked up dinner and I went for one more swim before heading
to the tent. As darkness fell I brought Middie inside while the others were getting
ready for the night. As Steve was packing up a small rattlesnake slithered
through camp, supporting our theory that this would be a good place to find
snakes and making me glad that I had decided to keep the dog on a leash. Steve
was a little disconcerted to be sleeping out in the open after having seen the
snake and I was certainly glad to be in the tent. The heat of the day and the
exertion of paddling had taken its toll and both the dog and myself fell asleep
quickly and didn’t wake up until being roused by the morning light.
to the tent. As darkness fell I brought Middie inside while the others were getting
ready for the night. As Steve was packing up a small rattlesnake slithered
through camp, supporting our theory that this would be a good place to find
snakes and making me glad that I had decided to keep the dog on a leash. Steve
was a little disconcerted to be sleeping out in the open after having seen the
snake and I was certainly glad to be in the tent. The heat of the day and the
exertion of paddling had taken its toll and both the dog and myself fell asleep
quickly and didn’t wake up until being roused by the morning light.
On a morning hike above camp Middie and I were treated to views up and down Hells
Canyon before the day's heat became unbearable.
Canyon before the day's heat became unbearable.
Prickly Pear can be found in many places along the Snake River and I don't recommend
sitting on it or laying in it. Take my word for it. Don't touch!
sitting on it or laying in it. Take my word for it. Don't touch!
Deer are quite common throughout Hells Canyons and we spotted many on or short morning
walk. Most probably have to make their way to the river at least once a day for water.
walk. Most probably have to make their way to the river at least once a day for water.
The whitewater was generally much easier on day two and that gave us plenty of chances to
enjoy the amazing canyon scenery.
enjoy the amazing canyon scenery.
Shortly below camp we stopped at a side stream to fill up with fresh water for the day. Filtering
from side streams is always preferable to taking water from the main river.
from side streams is always preferable to taking water from the main river.
I tried to stop frequently enough so Middie could get out to stretch her legs on a regular basis.
She was always eager to get out and lounge on the warm rocks.
She was always eager to get out and lounge on the warm rocks.
On day two Middie grew much more comfortable in the canoe and she was less inclined to try
to crawl into my lap when running through rapids.
to crawl into my lap when running through rapids.
While headwinds can become quite intense on the Snake through Hells Canyon, we were
lucky to have three relatively calm days.
lucky to have three relatively calm days.
While seldom vertical, towering rock walls within Hells Canyon's inner gorge are quite
common and the landscape is much more rugged than it first appears.
common and the landscape is much more rugged than it first appears.
A restored sheep ranch has been converted into a Forest Service Station and museum in the
heart of Hells Canyon. Accessible only by river or trail, this outpost is worth a visit.
heart of Hells Canyon. Accessible only by river or trail, this outpost is worth a visit.
Large jet boats take people on tours through the canyon and the restored sheep ranch is a
common destination for these huge craft.
common destination for these huge craft.
The restored ranch is a good place for a lunch stop and some exploration. Middie
enjoyed the irrigated lawn and a chance to escape the heat.
enjoyed the irrigated lawn and a chance to escape the heat.
Obviously more comfortable with her situation in the canoe, Middie Settles in for a nap during
the heat of the afternoon.
the heat of the afternoon.
Below Pittsburg Landing the Snake flattens considerably, but remains scenic and fun for
canoes, with swifts and ripples.
canoes, with swifts and ripples.
One of the most gorgeous sections of Hells Canyon comes below PIttsburg landing where we
encountered less people and relative solitude.
encountered less people and relative solitude.
A network of trails led into the hills above campsite at Tryon, but I chose to only go for a short
hike above the river.
hike above the river.
The crew relaxes as we float along in the afternoon deep within Hells Canyon
only a few miles above our campsite for the night.
only a few miles above our campsite for the night.
While Steve and Scott scout out our camp for the evening, Mark and I take advantage of the
stop and lounge in our boats.
stop and lounge in our boats.
The views from the hill behind Tryon are magnificent and the recently cleared air made things
stand out crystal clear.
stand out crystal clear.
The camping at Tryon is top notch. We were surprised to find a picnic table, some scattered
trees, and a sandy bench.
trees, and a sandy bench.
A large dead Sturgeon floating in an eddy a short distance below camp was impressive. This
fish is at least six feet long and probably over a hundred years old when it died.
fish is at least six feet long and probably over a hundred years old when it died.