The Hubbard Expedition of 1903
To best understand our canoe expedition across Labrador and Quebec it is
imperative to be versed in the history of the route we traveled. The story really
begins with a man named Leonidas Hubbard Jr. Born in rural Michigan on July 12,
1872, Hubbard grew up hunting, fishing, and spending time in the outdoors. After
receiving a thorough education in journalism, Leonidas became a reporter and
eventually moved to New York City in pursuit of bigger and better things. In May of
1900 Hubbard contracted Typhoid fever and while recovering fell in love with Mina
Benson, the nurse in charge of caring for him. The couple married on January 30,
1901 half a year after Leonidas secured a job with Outing, an American outdoor
adventure magazine published in New York.
Hubbard’s position required that he travel throughout the United States and Canada,
reporting on various nature and outdoor adventure topics. While at Outing, Leonias
yearned to write about a grand outdoors adventure which would demonstrate his
ability as a writer and bring fame to the Hubbard name. Inspired by recent forays into
the Arctic by various world explorers, Hubbard formulated a plan to travel into the
Labrador interior, which was relatively unknown outside of the native peoples who
inhabited the region. In April 1902, Hubbard became assistant editor of Outing and
shortly thereafter convinced his editor-in-chief, to give him leave to mount a
Labrador expedition.
imperative to be versed in the history of the route we traveled. The story really
begins with a man named Leonidas Hubbard Jr. Born in rural Michigan on July 12,
1872, Hubbard grew up hunting, fishing, and spending time in the outdoors. After
receiving a thorough education in journalism, Leonidas became a reporter and
eventually moved to New York City in pursuit of bigger and better things. In May of
1900 Hubbard contracted Typhoid fever and while recovering fell in love with Mina
Benson, the nurse in charge of caring for him. The couple married on January 30,
1901 half a year after Leonidas secured a job with Outing, an American outdoor
adventure magazine published in New York.
Hubbard’s position required that he travel throughout the United States and Canada,
reporting on various nature and outdoor adventure topics. While at Outing, Leonias
yearned to write about a grand outdoors adventure which would demonstrate his
ability as a writer and bring fame to the Hubbard name. Inspired by recent forays into
the Arctic by various world explorers, Hubbard formulated a plan to travel into the
Labrador interior, which was relatively unknown outside of the native peoples who
inhabited the region. In April 1902, Hubbard became assistant editor of Outing and
shortly thereafter convinced his editor-in-chief, to give him leave to mount a
Labrador expedition.
Although Hubbard had no experience with mounting major expeditions, he had spent sometime in the Canadian bush while on assignment for
Outing. On one such trip Leonidas and his wife Mina traveled by train to the remote Hudson Bay trading post of Missinaibi, several hundred miles
north of Lake Superior in the thick boreal forests of northern Ontario. While fishing the tea colors waters of the Missinaibi River and its tributaries
Hubbard met a Hudson Bay Company employee named Mr. King, a character that would later play a role in the 1903 Labrador Expedition.
Hubbard also spent several weeks snowshoeing with natives in the Laurentian Mountains far to the north of Montreal. What Hubbard lacked in
experience, he made up for in enthusiasm.
On a winter hike in the hills just north of New York City Hubbard convinced his close friend, Dillon Wallace, a New York lawyer, to accompany him
on this expedition. Recently widowed, forty three year old Wallace was eager to have an adventure that would distract his grieving mind and get
him far away from the stale routine of New York. Interestingly, Wallace seems to have come to the expedition with much less experience than
Hubbard. Although often overlooked, the transformation of Wallace from a neophyte outdoorsman to a hardened adventurer is quite remarkable.
It is true that Leonidas Hubbard was relatively inexperienced in the world of major expeditions and that his notion of traversing the wilds of Labrador
was probably highly romanticized in his own mind prior to the trip, he did recognize that he would need a trustworthy guide if his trip was going to
have any chance to succeed. To find a guide, Hubbard turned to his contact S.A. King in Missinaibi, Ontario. King was able to hire a Cree guide
from the area to support Hubbard’s Labrador Expedition. This original guide got cold feet about heading to New York City to meet Hubbard and at
the last minute a replacement guide was found and given train tickets that would carry him to the Big Apple. This third guide, George Elson, turns
out to be as compelling of a character as both Hubbard and Wallace, and helps make the tale of these original Labrador Expeditions even more
interesting.
Outing. On one such trip Leonidas and his wife Mina traveled by train to the remote Hudson Bay trading post of Missinaibi, several hundred miles
north of Lake Superior in the thick boreal forests of northern Ontario. While fishing the tea colors waters of the Missinaibi River and its tributaries
Hubbard met a Hudson Bay Company employee named Mr. King, a character that would later play a role in the 1903 Labrador Expedition.
Hubbard also spent several weeks snowshoeing with natives in the Laurentian Mountains far to the north of Montreal. What Hubbard lacked in
experience, he made up for in enthusiasm.
On a winter hike in the hills just north of New York City Hubbard convinced his close friend, Dillon Wallace, a New York lawyer, to accompany him
on this expedition. Recently widowed, forty three year old Wallace was eager to have an adventure that would distract his grieving mind and get
him far away from the stale routine of New York. Interestingly, Wallace seems to have come to the expedition with much less experience than
Hubbard. Although often overlooked, the transformation of Wallace from a neophyte outdoorsman to a hardened adventurer is quite remarkable.
It is true that Leonidas Hubbard was relatively inexperienced in the world of major expeditions and that his notion of traversing the wilds of Labrador
was probably highly romanticized in his own mind prior to the trip, he did recognize that he would need a trustworthy guide if his trip was going to
have any chance to succeed. To find a guide, Hubbard turned to his contact S.A. King in Missinaibi, Ontario. King was able to hire a Cree guide
from the area to support Hubbard’s Labrador Expedition. This original guide got cold feet about heading to New York City to meet Hubbard and at
the last minute a replacement guide was found and given train tickets that would carry him to the Big Apple. This third guide, George Elson, turns
out to be as compelling of a character as both Hubbard and Wallace, and helps make the tale of these original Labrador Expeditions even more
interesting.
George Elson was born about 1876 in the James Bay region of northern
Ontario, seventy miles south of Rupert House to a Scotch father and Cree
mother. He grew up under the wing of the Hudson Bay Company,
becoming an experienced trapper and canoesman. Elson turns out to be
the backbone of the 1903 expedition where his bravery and skill ultimately
helped save Wallace’s and his own life. Despite being of mixed blood,
Elson was treated with respect that was perhaps uncommon for the period
and develop what can only be considered genuine friendships with both
Hubbard and Wallace. Although Elson turned out to be a more than
capable guide, it is interesting that Hubbard choose to use someone that
had absolutely no familiarity with Labrador. The villages and Hudson Bay
Company posts along the Labrador Coast would have been a prime
source for guide’s at least somewhat familiar with the interior of Labrador.
The Hubbard party sailed from New York on June 20, 1903. The trip
became trying even before the team reached Labrador. The small coast
boat that carried passengers from Newfoundland to remote villages in
Labrador was slowed by icebergs and storms. At Rigolet, a tiny fishing
community not far from the expedition’s starting point, the Hubbard
expedition met William Cabot, a hardcore arctic and sub arctic explorer
with years of expedition experience. While happy to meet outsiders and
taken by Hubbard’s infectious excitement for the trip, Cabot immediately
found faults with the groups outfit. Of greatest concern was the late
starting date and the fact that Hubbard, Wallace, and Elson would be
traveling in one large 18 foot canoe. Cabot suggested that the group
change their plans so they could join him on a slightly less rigorous
journey that he was planning himself. Hubbard would have nothing to do
with this suggestion, and determinedly pushed ahead with his original
plan.
Ontario, seventy miles south of Rupert House to a Scotch father and Cree
mother. He grew up under the wing of the Hudson Bay Company,
becoming an experienced trapper and canoesman. Elson turns out to be
the backbone of the 1903 expedition where his bravery and skill ultimately
helped save Wallace’s and his own life. Despite being of mixed blood,
Elson was treated with respect that was perhaps uncommon for the period
and develop what can only be considered genuine friendships with both
Hubbard and Wallace. Although Elson turned out to be a more than
capable guide, it is interesting that Hubbard choose to use someone that
had absolutely no familiarity with Labrador. The villages and Hudson Bay
Company posts along the Labrador Coast would have been a prime
source for guide’s at least somewhat familiar with the interior of Labrador.
The Hubbard party sailed from New York on June 20, 1903. The trip
became trying even before the team reached Labrador. The small coast
boat that carried passengers from Newfoundland to remote villages in
Labrador was slowed by icebergs and storms. At Rigolet, a tiny fishing
community not far from the expedition’s starting point, the Hubbard
expedition met William Cabot, a hardcore arctic and sub arctic explorer
with years of expedition experience. While happy to meet outsiders and
taken by Hubbard’s infectious excitement for the trip, Cabot immediately
found faults with the groups outfit. Of greatest concern was the late
starting date and the fact that Hubbard, Wallace, and Elson would be
traveling in one large 18 foot canoe. Cabot suggested that the group
change their plans so they could join him on a slightly less rigorous
journey that he was planning himself. Hubbard would have nothing to do
with this suggestion, and determinedly pushed ahead with his original
plan.
While at Rigolet the team also met a local trapper that had worked
the area that Hubbard planned to explore for the last several winters.
Blake confirmed that the Naskapi River entered Grand Lake at its far
western end. When asked about the navigability of the stream, Blake
told Hubbard that the Naskapi was large enough to sail up for fifteen
miles above Grand Lake. Encouraged, the team reboarded the
Virginia Lake and steamed towards their starting point full of hope
and excitement.
They reached Northwest River, their starting point in Labrador, in
early July and departed from this post on July 15, late in the Labrador
summer season. The explorers made excellent time across the big
waters of Grand Lake and in less than two days that reached the far
end of the lake, which for all practical purposes marked the end of
territory that had been mapped and documented. It was at this point
that Hubbard planned to find the mouth of Naskapi River and follow it
upstream to Lake Michikamau from which point he would head north
into the barren grounds and paddle the George River to a Hudson
Bay Company Post on Ungava Bay. Armed with Blake the trapper’s
information that the Naskapi entered Grand Lake at its western end
Hubbard proceeded to an obvious break in the trees at the extreme
far end of the lake and began to ascend the stream that entered
here. Little did they know at the time that in doing this they were
committing themselves to weeks of agony and suffering.
Hubbard had mistaked the Susan River for the Naskaupi River, which
actually flows into Grand Lake several miles before the extreme
western end of Grand Lake. While many sources suggest that it was
Hubbard’s inexperience that caused the error in route selection, it
should be noted that the entrance of the Naskapi to Grand Lake is,
despite its size, very obscure. A series of low forested islands blend
into the surrounding shoreline and when paddling on the southern
side of the lake the mouth of the Naskapi is all but invisible.
Almost immediately above Grand Lake the Susan becomes much to
shallow to paddle and within several miles it is so steep that it is
barely possible to drag a canoe against its rocky and turbulent
course. Not one to be discouraged, Hubbard assumed that Blake
had exaggerated the distance that the Naskapi was navigable above
Grand Lake, and he had the team push on with what was to become
a Herculean effort. Frequent rains, hordes of mosquitoes and biting
flies, hundreds of pounds of gear to portage, and a fragile wood and
canvas canoe slowed the pace of the expedition to a crawl. The
effort of continuously carrying heavy loads through the nearly
impenetrable bush took its toll. Clothes were reduced to rags, food
that should have been rationed was consumed at an alarming rate,
and spirits sunk.
the area that Hubbard planned to explore for the last several winters.
Blake confirmed that the Naskapi River entered Grand Lake at its far
western end. When asked about the navigability of the stream, Blake
told Hubbard that the Naskapi was large enough to sail up for fifteen
miles above Grand Lake. Encouraged, the team reboarded the
Virginia Lake and steamed towards their starting point full of hope
and excitement.
They reached Northwest River, their starting point in Labrador, in
early July and departed from this post on July 15, late in the Labrador
summer season. The explorers made excellent time across the big
waters of Grand Lake and in less than two days that reached the far
end of the lake, which for all practical purposes marked the end of
territory that had been mapped and documented. It was at this point
that Hubbard planned to find the mouth of Naskapi River and follow it
upstream to Lake Michikamau from which point he would head north
into the barren grounds and paddle the George River to a Hudson
Bay Company Post on Ungava Bay. Armed with Blake the trapper’s
information that the Naskapi entered Grand Lake at its western end
Hubbard proceeded to an obvious break in the trees at the extreme
far end of the lake and began to ascend the stream that entered
here. Little did they know at the time that in doing this they were
committing themselves to weeks of agony and suffering.
Hubbard had mistaked the Susan River for the Naskaupi River, which
actually flows into Grand Lake several miles before the extreme
western end of Grand Lake. While many sources suggest that it was
Hubbard’s inexperience that caused the error in route selection, it
should be noted that the entrance of the Naskapi to Grand Lake is,
despite its size, very obscure. A series of low forested islands blend
into the surrounding shoreline and when paddling on the southern
side of the lake the mouth of the Naskapi is all but invisible.
Almost immediately above Grand Lake the Susan becomes much to
shallow to paddle and within several miles it is so steep that it is
barely possible to drag a canoe against its rocky and turbulent
course. Not one to be discouraged, Hubbard assumed that Blake
had exaggerated the distance that the Naskapi was navigable above
Grand Lake, and he had the team push on with what was to become
a Herculean effort. Frequent rains, hordes of mosquitoes and biting
flies, hundreds of pounds of gear to portage, and a fragile wood and
canvas canoe slowed the pace of the expedition to a crawl. The
effort of continuously carrying heavy loads through the nearly
impenetrable bush took its toll. Clothes were reduced to rags, food
that should have been rationed was consumed at an alarming rate,
and spirits sunk.
In and effort to reduce weight Hubbard decided that food should be
cached. In addition to lightening the load to be portaged up the
shallow and steep Susan River, these stores would back up a retreat
to Grand Lake if a retreat became necessary. The Susan eventually
led the expedition into a series of unnavigable waterways and more
arduous portages that farther slowed Hubbard. The more time that
Hubbard, Wallace, and Elson spent ascending the Susan, the more of
their precious food supplies they consumed. It as always part of the
plan to rely on hunting and fishing to supplement their food supply,
but by the middle of August harvesting game became critical. The
need for food is apparent in the names left by these explorers :
Goose Creek and Caribou Camp being but a few.
After a monumental effort the headwaters of the Susan, now known
as Goose Creek, petered out into a hilly landscape full of swamps and
small lakes. Until this point Hubbard had remained hopeful that the
waterway they were following would bring them to Michikamau, now
they needed to scout out a route if they were to continue. Even Elson
became temporarily lost in this featureless landscape while searching
for a viable route forward, but with luck he also heard the deep base
of a large river flowing deeply through rapids. Encouraged ounce
again, Hubbard and company made a portage to today’s Beaver and
stumbled across what was an ancient route between the coast and
Lake Michikamau.
cached. In addition to lightening the load to be portaged up the
shallow and steep Susan River, these stores would back up a retreat
to Grand Lake if a retreat became necessary. The Susan eventually
led the expedition into a series of unnavigable waterways and more
arduous portages that farther slowed Hubbard. The more time that
Hubbard, Wallace, and Elson spent ascending the Susan, the more of
their precious food supplies they consumed. It as always part of the
plan to rely on hunting and fishing to supplement their food supply,
but by the middle of August harvesting game became critical. The
need for food is apparent in the names left by these explorers :
Goose Creek and Caribou Camp being but a few.
After a monumental effort the headwaters of the Susan, now known
as Goose Creek, petered out into a hilly landscape full of swamps and
small lakes. Until this point Hubbard had remained hopeful that the
waterway they were following would bring them to Michikamau, now
they needed to scout out a route if they were to continue. Even Elson
became temporarily lost in this featureless landscape while searching
for a viable route forward, but with luck he also heard the deep base
of a large river flowing deeply through rapids. Encouraged ounce
again, Hubbard and company made a portage to today’s Beaver and
stumbled across what was an ancient route between the coast and
Lake Michikamau.
Once on the Beaver River things started to look up. The fishing
improved dramatically and a caribou was shot, providing a much needed
boost to short rations. Only Elson seems to have been concerned about
the expedition’s chances for success at this point, a fact that can be
inferred from him insisting that the skin of caribou be cached in case it
needed to be eaten in the event of a retreat back down the Beaver.
The Beaver proved to be large and quite navigable, it even spread out
into lake like expansions that allowed the canoe to be paddled for any
significant distance for the first time since Grand Lake. The Beaver
entered a land of gorgeous barren topped mountains while remaining
quite navigable. The many bays and finger like lakes in this region
forced much scouting and route finding, but at least it was possible to
utilize the canoe, and catch descent amounts of fish. After much
searching Hubbard eventually found himself at the headwaters lake of
the Beaver River, which ended up being a gorgeous lake, but certainly
not Michikamau. A hilly pass blocked the route of the explorers and they
eagerly set out to portage over this obstacle, hopeful that the lakes on
the far side would carry them to the big waters of Michikamau.
On the far side of the portage a large body of water was discovered and
named Hope Lake because it potentially linked into Michikamau and
raised morale. In fact Hope Lake is part of the Metchin River, a sizeable
river connecting many confusing lakes full of dead end bays and
confusing points of land, that eventually flows into a large bay making up
the southeastern arm of Michikamau. Unfortunately for Hubbard,
another scouting trip showed an even larger lake to the north, to which
the bedraggled group portaged into, stumbling off of a relatively easy
route to their object of the desires as randomly as they had stumbled
onto it.
improved dramatically and a caribou was shot, providing a much needed
boost to short rations. Only Elson seems to have been concerned about
the expedition’s chances for success at this point, a fact that can be
inferred from him insisting that the skin of caribou be cached in case it
needed to be eaten in the event of a retreat back down the Beaver.
The Beaver proved to be large and quite navigable, it even spread out
into lake like expansions that allowed the canoe to be paddled for any
significant distance for the first time since Grand Lake. The Beaver
entered a land of gorgeous barren topped mountains while remaining
quite navigable. The many bays and finger like lakes in this region
forced much scouting and route finding, but at least it was possible to
utilize the canoe, and catch descent amounts of fish. After much
searching Hubbard eventually found himself at the headwaters lake of
the Beaver River, which ended up being a gorgeous lake, but certainly
not Michikamau. A hilly pass blocked the route of the explorers and they
eagerly set out to portage over this obstacle, hopeful that the lakes on
the far side would carry them to the big waters of Michikamau.
On the far side of the portage a large body of water was discovered and
named Hope Lake because it potentially linked into Michikamau and
raised morale. In fact Hope Lake is part of the Metchin River, a sizeable
river connecting many confusing lakes full of dead end bays and
confusing points of land, that eventually flows into a large bay making up
the southeastern arm of Michikamau. Unfortunately for Hubbard,
another scouting trip showed an even larger lake to the north, to which
the bedraggled group portaged into, stumbling off of a relatively easy
route to their object of the desires as randomly as they had stumbled
onto it.
It was now September and Labrador’s short summer was quickly transitioning
into the notoriously tumultuous fall season. Despite the fact that a water route
failed to materialize out of their new lake, Hubbard pushed on and began a
disastrously long overland portage punctuated only by the smallest of ponds
and lakes. Storms became more frequent and no sure route could be found.
Then one day a pond was reached with a sizeable hill at its far end.
On climbing the hill Hubbard finally laid on eyes on the goal he had been
striving to reach for so long : Michikamau. Far reaching sheets of water
stretched as far as the eye could see, there was no mistaking this enormous
lake. While there can be little doubt that Hubbard was pleased with having
seen the object of his desires, Hubbard was facing with a serious dilemma.
The time had come to decide between pushing on and attempting to complete
the team’s original route or cutting their losses and retreating back to North
West River Post. Neither option was desirable, and both had the potential for
grave consequences. By pushing on the team would be moving into unknown
territory and pushing farther north into the barrens at a time of the year when
winter could arrive at any moment. Finding the head of the George River was
not guaranteed and the only way for the team to obtain food would be to rely
on running into caribou on their great fall migration, risky business
considering the inconsistent nature of migration routes. With the help of the
others, Hubbard decided to retrace his route back to North West River Post,
hoping to rely on the food caches they had made on the inward journey to
provide enough sustenance to bring them to safety.
The decision to stop pushing farther into one of the largest wilderness areas
in North America provided a short lived boost to morale and efforts were
focused on starting the retreat in earnest. Unfortunately, the decision to turn
around came too late, and within a day or two the first winter storm of the
season pinned Hubbard’s team down on a large lake. What would soon be
known as Windbound Lake became a prison of sorts for the men as they
waited out the storm and ate meager rations. Eventually hunger forced the
group to paddle through dangerously large waves to escape Windbound Lake.
into the notoriously tumultuous fall season. Despite the fact that a water route
failed to materialize out of their new lake, Hubbard pushed on and began a
disastrously long overland portage punctuated only by the smallest of ponds
and lakes. Storms became more frequent and no sure route could be found.
Then one day a pond was reached with a sizeable hill at its far end.
On climbing the hill Hubbard finally laid on eyes on the goal he had been
striving to reach for so long : Michikamau. Far reaching sheets of water
stretched as far as the eye could see, there was no mistaking this enormous
lake. While there can be little doubt that Hubbard was pleased with having
seen the object of his desires, Hubbard was facing with a serious dilemma.
The time had come to decide between pushing on and attempting to complete
the team’s original route or cutting their losses and retreating back to North
West River Post. Neither option was desirable, and both had the potential for
grave consequences. By pushing on the team would be moving into unknown
territory and pushing farther north into the barrens at a time of the year when
winter could arrive at any moment. Finding the head of the George River was
not guaranteed and the only way for the team to obtain food would be to rely
on running into caribou on their great fall migration, risky business
considering the inconsistent nature of migration routes. With the help of the
others, Hubbard decided to retrace his route back to North West River Post,
hoping to rely on the food caches they had made on the inward journey to
provide enough sustenance to bring them to safety.
The decision to stop pushing farther into one of the largest wilderness areas
in North America provided a short lived boost to morale and efforts were
focused on starting the retreat in earnest. Unfortunately, the decision to turn
around came too late, and within a day or two the first winter storm of the
season pinned Hubbard’s team down on a large lake. What would soon be
known as Windbound Lake became a prison of sorts for the men as they
waited out the storm and ate meager rations. Eventually hunger forced the
group to paddle through dangerously large waves to escape Windbound Lake.
Leonidas Hubbard Jr.
Dillon Wallace
George Elson
The task of retracing the arduous overland route that had been
difficult under summer conditions became more difficult with the
addition of biting wind, snow, and sleet. Food was reduced to a
handful or two of flour mixed with water and a sprinkling of pea
meal. The fishing became poor and without shotguns even
George, an expert hunter, rarely managed to drop a ptarmigan or
duck. As their strength failed it became necessary for two men to
carry the canoe and just walking became a tiring chore. The
graveness of this situation is revealed by the men’s journals
where writing becomes almost entirely focused on different types
of food and listing what was consumed each day.
Once back on the Beaver River the team was able to paddle and
cover ground quickly, but food remained scarce. In places where
they had hauled in countless fish only a month ago they were
lucky to land one or two small trout. To make haste the trio ran
their canoe down through dangerous rapids that would normally
have portaged, but now the race against starvation was in full
swing and time was of the utmost importance. The men did not
realize just how weak they were until they came to a falls they had
to portage. When the combined effort of all three men failed to lift
the canoe off of the ground the desperation of their situation set
in. The specter of starvation drew closer by the minute.
A small reprieve came when the team reached the place where
they had shot a caribou early in the summer. Despite being
infested with maggots and partially rotten, the caribou skin that
George had cached provided welcome nutrition. The men went as
far as boiling the caribou hooves and bones to draw every last bit
of energy out into a thin broth that they described as delicious.
These bones would be boiled again and again until they were
rendered useless. Although bone soup and caribou skin seems
inconsequential, the meals that were garnered from these scraps
helped carry the men back to the point where they had first
portaged into the Beaver River. While reaching this familiar
landmark must certainly have been rewarding, it came with
another decision of life or death importance.
difficult under summer conditions became more difficult with the
addition of biting wind, snow, and sleet. Food was reduced to a
handful or two of flour mixed with water and a sprinkling of pea
meal. The fishing became poor and without shotguns even
George, an expert hunter, rarely managed to drop a ptarmigan or
duck. As their strength failed it became necessary for two men to
carry the canoe and just walking became a tiring chore. The
graveness of this situation is revealed by the men’s journals
where writing becomes almost entirely focused on different types
of food and listing what was consumed each day.
Once back on the Beaver River the team was able to paddle and
cover ground quickly, but food remained scarce. In places where
they had hauled in countless fish only a month ago they were
lucky to land one or two small trout. To make haste the trio ran
their canoe down through dangerous rapids that would normally
have portaged, but now the race against starvation was in full
swing and time was of the utmost importance. The men did not
realize just how weak they were until they came to a falls they had
to portage. When the combined effort of all three men failed to lift
the canoe off of the ground the desperation of their situation set
in. The specter of starvation drew closer by the minute.
A small reprieve came when the team reached the place where
they had shot a caribou early in the summer. Despite being
infested with maggots and partially rotten, the caribou skin that
George had cached provided welcome nutrition. The men went as
far as boiling the caribou hooves and bones to draw every last bit
of energy out into a thin broth that they described as delicious.
These bones would be boiled again and again until they were
rendered useless. Although bone soup and caribou skin seems
inconsequential, the meals that were garnered from these scraps
helped carry the men back to the point where they had first
portaged into the Beaver River. While reaching this familiar
landmark must certainly have been rewarding, it came with
another decision of life or death importance.
Hubbard was now forced to choose between staying with the canoe and
following the Beaver River downstream and into the unknown, or
abandoning the canoe and attempting to hike back to the head of Grand
Lake along their original route into the interior. Elson desperately wanted to
stick with the river, saying to “never leave your boat” in the bush. Although
the men were unsure of exactly where the Beaver River would lead, George
was confident it would bring them to at least a trapper’s cabin somewhere
near the coast. Regardless of George’s wishes Hubbard decided to return
to Grand Lake by hiking back down through the valley of the Susan River.
Hubbard reasoned that if they could reach the cached of food they had laid
that enough food could be obtained to complete the retreat.
Shortly after starting the forced march back towards the remote enclave
that is North West River Post it became apparent that the team was in
serious trouble. As strength failed them the men were reduced to leaving
behind even the most basic of possessions. By mid-October Hubbard could
go no further. He was starving and exhausted. After resting for some time in
a camp at the junction of Goose Creek and Susan Brook it was decided that
Wallace and Elson should push on by themselves, with Wallace returning to
Hubbard with any food recovered from the cache’s and Elson continuing
down to the trapper’s cabin at the wets end of Grand Lake that they felt
would be occupied at this time of the year. Unable to move, Hubbard’s only
hope for survival lay in his friends. It was with heavy hearts and many tears
that Wallace and Elson walked away from Hubbard’s tent deep in the woods
of Labrador. Hubbard’s final journal entry gives the best sense of what this
experience was like.
following the Beaver River downstream and into the unknown, or
abandoning the canoe and attempting to hike back to the head of Grand
Lake along their original route into the interior. Elson desperately wanted to
stick with the river, saying to “never leave your boat” in the bush. Although
the men were unsure of exactly where the Beaver River would lead, George
was confident it would bring them to at least a trapper’s cabin somewhere
near the coast. Regardless of George’s wishes Hubbard decided to return
to Grand Lake by hiking back down through the valley of the Susan River.
Hubbard reasoned that if they could reach the cached of food they had laid
that enough food could be obtained to complete the retreat.
Shortly after starting the forced march back towards the remote enclave
that is North West River Post it became apparent that the team was in
serious trouble. As strength failed them the men were reduced to leaving
behind even the most basic of possessions. By mid-October Hubbard could
go no further. He was starving and exhausted. After resting for some time in
a camp at the junction of Goose Creek and Susan Brook it was decided that
Wallace and Elson should push on by themselves, with Wallace returning to
Hubbard with any food recovered from the cache’s and Elson continuing
down to the trapper’s cabin at the wets end of Grand Lake that they felt
would be occupied at this time of the year. Unable to move, Hubbard’s only
hope for survival lay in his friends. It was with heavy hearts and many tears
that Wallace and Elson walked away from Hubbard’s tent deep in the woods
of Labrador. Hubbard’s final journal entry gives the best sense of what this
experience was like.
Sunday, October 18th.—Alone in camp—junction of Nascaupee and
some other stream—estimated (overestimated I hope) distance above
head of Grand Lake, 33 miles. For two days past we have travelled down
our old trail with light packs. We left a lot of flour wet— about 11 miles
below here, 12 miles (approximately) below that about a pound of milk
powder, 4 miles below that about 4 pounds of lard. We counted on all
these to help us out in our effort to reach the head of Grand Lake where
we hoped to find Skipper Tom Blake's trapping camp and cache. On
Thursday as stated, I busted. Friday and Saturday it was the same. I saw
it was probably useless for me to try to go farther with the boys, so we
counselled last night, and decided they should take merely half a blanket
each, socks, etc., some tea, tea pail, cups, and the pistols, and go on.
They will try to reach the flour to-morrow. Then Wallace will bring a little
and come back to me. George will go on to the milk and lard and to
Skipper Blake if he can, and send or lead help to us. I want to say here
that they are two of the very best, bravest, and grandest men I ever
knew, and if I die it will not be because they did not put forth their best
efforts. Our past two days have been trying ones. I have not written my
diary because so very weak. Day before yesterday we caught sight of a
caribou, but it was on our lee, and, winding us, got away before a shot
could be fired.
Yesterday at an old camp, we found the end we had cut from a flour bag.
It had a bit of flour sticking to it. We boiled it with our old caribou bones
and it thickened the broth a little. We also found a can of mustard we
had thrown away. I sat and held it in my hand a long time, thinking how it
came from Congers and our home, and what a happy home it was. Then
I took a bite of it and it was very good. We mixed some in our bone broth
and it seemed to stimulate us. We had a bit of caribou skin in the same
pot. It swelled thick and was very good. Last night I fell asleep while the
boys were reading to me. This morning I was very, very sleepy. After the
boys left—they left me tea, the caribou bones, and another end of flour
sack found here, a rawhide caribou moccasin, and some yeast cakes—I
drank a cup of strong tea and some bone broth.
some other stream—estimated (overestimated I hope) distance above
head of Grand Lake, 33 miles. For two days past we have travelled down
our old trail with light packs. We left a lot of flour wet— about 11 miles
below here, 12 miles (approximately) below that about a pound of milk
powder, 4 miles below that about 4 pounds of lard. We counted on all
these to help us out in our effort to reach the head of Grand Lake where
we hoped to find Skipper Tom Blake's trapping camp and cache. On
Thursday as stated, I busted. Friday and Saturday it was the same. I saw
it was probably useless for me to try to go farther with the boys, so we
counselled last night, and decided they should take merely half a blanket
each, socks, etc., some tea, tea pail, cups, and the pistols, and go on.
They will try to reach the flour to-morrow. Then Wallace will bring a little
and come back to me. George will go on to the milk and lard and to
Skipper Blake if he can, and send or lead help to us. I want to say here
that they are two of the very best, bravest, and grandest men I ever
knew, and if I die it will not be because they did not put forth their best
efforts. Our past two days have been trying ones. I have not written my
diary because so very weak. Day before yesterday we caught sight of a
caribou, but it was on our lee, and, winding us, got away before a shot
could be fired.
Yesterday at an old camp, we found the end we had cut from a flour bag.
It had a bit of flour sticking to it. We boiled it with our old caribou bones
and it thickened the broth a little. We also found a can of mustard we
had thrown away. I sat and held it in my hand a long time, thinking how it
came from Congers and our home, and what a happy home it was. Then
I took a bite of it and it was very good. We mixed some in our bone broth
and it seemed to stimulate us. We had a bit of caribou skin in the same
pot. It swelled thick and was very good. Last night I fell asleep while the
boys were reading to me. This morning I was very, very sleepy. After the
boys left—they left me tea, the caribou bones, and another end of flour
sack found here, a rawhide caribou moccasin, and some yeast cakes—I
drank a cup of strong tea and some bone broth.
I also ate some of the really delicious rawhide, boiled with the bones, and it made me stronger—strong to write this. The boys have only tea and
one half pound pea meal (erbswurst). Our parting was most affecting. I did not feel so bad. George said, "The Lord help us, Hubbard. With His
help I'll save you if I can get out." Then he cried. So did Wallace. Wallace stooped and kissed my cheek with his poor, sunken, bearded lips
several times— and I kissed George did the same, and I kissed his cheek. Then they went away. God bless and help them.
I am not so greatly in doubt as to the outcome. I believe they will reach the flour and be strengthened, that Wallace will reach me, that George
will find Blake's cache and camp and send help. So I believe we will all get out.
My tent is pitched in open tent style in front of a big rock. The rock reflects the fire, but now it is going out because of the rain. I think I shall let it
go and close the tent, till the rain is over, thus keeping out wind and saving wood. To-night or to- morrow perhaps the weather will improve so I
can build a fire, eat the rest of my moccasins and have some bone broth. Then I can boil my belt and oil-tanned moccasins and a pair of
cowhide mittens. They ought to help some. I am not suffering. The acute pangs of hunger have given way to indifference. I am sleepy. I think
death from starvation is not so bad. But let no one suppose that I expect it. I am prepared, that is all. I think the boys will be able with the Lord's
help to save me.
one half pound pea meal (erbswurst). Our parting was most affecting. I did not feel so bad. George said, "The Lord help us, Hubbard. With His
help I'll save you if I can get out." Then he cried. So did Wallace. Wallace stooped and kissed my cheek with his poor, sunken, bearded lips
several times— and I kissed George did the same, and I kissed his cheek. Then they went away. God bless and help them.
I am not so greatly in doubt as to the outcome. I believe they will reach the flour and be strengthened, that Wallace will reach me, that George
will find Blake's cache and camp and send help. So I believe we will all get out.
My tent is pitched in open tent style in front of a big rock. The rock reflects the fire, but now it is going out because of the rain. I think I shall let it
go and close the tent, till the rain is over, thus keeping out wind and saving wood. To-night or to- morrow perhaps the weather will improve so I
can build a fire, eat the rest of my moccasins and have some bone broth. Then I can boil my belt and oil-tanned moccasins and a pair of
cowhide mittens. They ought to help some. I am not suffering. The acute pangs of hunger have given way to indifference. I am sleepy. I think
death from starvation is not so bad. But let no one suppose that I expect it. I am prepared, that is all. I think the boys will be able with the Lord's
help to save me.
What ensued is a story of human endurance and survival
worthy of its own book, but in the epic tale of exploration
and death remains a small chapter. While retreating down
the Susan a series of snowstorms battered Wallace and
Elson who wore little more than rags left over from the
summer. At times the men were forced to wade through
the stream and they must have been soaked to the skin.
Against all odds Elson was able to locate a moldy bag of
flour and a bucket with remnants of lard. Wallace indeed
returned with a portion of these supplies in a last ditch
effort to save his beloved friend. Miraculously George
managed to reach Grand Lake and find the trapper’s
cabin they had seen on their way out back in July.
Wracked by hunger and nearly spent Elson explained the
situation to Bert Blake and was willing to help with the
rescue until he finally rested and realized the degree to
which he himself was starved.
worthy of its own book, but in the epic tale of exploration
and death remains a small chapter. While retreating down
the Susan a series of snowstorms battered Wallace and
Elson who wore little more than rags left over from the
summer. At times the men were forced to wade through
the stream and they must have been soaked to the skin.
Against all odds Elson was able to locate a moldy bag of
flour and a bucket with remnants of lard. Wallace indeed
returned with a portion of these supplies in a last ditch
effort to save his beloved friend. Miraculously George
managed to reach Grand Lake and find the trapper’s
cabin they had seen on their way out back in July.
Wracked by hunger and nearly spent Elson explained the
situation to Bert Blake and was willing to help with the
rescue until he finally rested and realized the degree to
which he himself was starved.
A team of three trappers quickly headed up the Susan on snowshoes and
eventually came across Wallace tracks which were weaving erratically in circles. Not
a moment too soon Wallace Himself was found delirious and on the verge of
consciousness laying in a snow drift not terribly far from where Hubbard had been
left. After reviving Wallace the trappers gathered what information from him they
could and pushed on to reach Hubbard. By the time the rescue party arrived they
were too late for Leonidas Hubbard, who lay wrapped in blankets looking as though
he had just fallen asleep and never woke. With more storms fast approaching the
rescuers began the process of assisting Wallace back to Grand Lake and were
forced to leave Hubbard behind in the snowy spruce forests of Labrador, vowing to
return to recover the body when conditions allowed.
Both Elson and Wallace were in no condition to leave North West River Post and
they spent the next several month recuperating and gathering their strength back.
Both men were eager to return to civilization, but two factors prevented them from
leaving the coast of Labrador anytime soon. For one, they both felt it was their
duty to recover the body of their friend. Second, it was late enough in the season
that thick sea ice prevented ships from reaching North West River Post.
By January both George and Wallace had grown restless and they were able to
convince a group of trappers to head up the Susan with them by dogsled to
recover films and other equipment left behind during the retreat and more
importantly to recover Hubbard himself. With incredibly accuracy Elson managed to
locate the majority of cached items despite the fact that nearly eight feet of snow
covered the ground in places. Also fortunate was the fact that Hubbard’s body
remained unharmed by marauding wolves or other animals. The cold weather had
preserved Leonidas and it would be possible to bring him home to his beloved wife,
Mina.
Once back in North West River Elson and Wallace decided that they would not wait
until the first ship of the season could make its way to North West River Post
sometime in June. Instead, the two men brought Hubbard’s body south by dogsled,
a feat that must have been quite an adventure in itself, but one tarnished by the
ordeal they had been through and the constant remainder provided by Hubbard’s
rough hewn casket.
eventually came across Wallace tracks which were weaving erratically in circles. Not
a moment too soon Wallace Himself was found delirious and on the verge of
consciousness laying in a snow drift not terribly far from where Hubbard had been
left. After reviving Wallace the trappers gathered what information from him they
could and pushed on to reach Hubbard. By the time the rescue party arrived they
were too late for Leonidas Hubbard, who lay wrapped in blankets looking as though
he had just fallen asleep and never woke. With more storms fast approaching the
rescuers began the process of assisting Wallace back to Grand Lake and were
forced to leave Hubbard behind in the snowy spruce forests of Labrador, vowing to
return to recover the body when conditions allowed.
Both Elson and Wallace were in no condition to leave North West River Post and
they spent the next several month recuperating and gathering their strength back.
Both men were eager to return to civilization, but two factors prevented them from
leaving the coast of Labrador anytime soon. For one, they both felt it was their
duty to recover the body of their friend. Second, it was late enough in the season
that thick sea ice prevented ships from reaching North West River Post.
By January both George and Wallace had grown restless and they were able to
convince a group of trappers to head up the Susan with them by dogsled to
recover films and other equipment left behind during the retreat and more
importantly to recover Hubbard himself. With incredibly accuracy Elson managed to
locate the majority of cached items despite the fact that nearly eight feet of snow
covered the ground in places. Also fortunate was the fact that Hubbard’s body
remained unharmed by marauding wolves or other animals. The cold weather had
preserved Leonidas and it would be possible to bring him home to his beloved wife,
Mina.
Once back in North West River Elson and Wallace decided that they would not wait
until the first ship of the season could make its way to North West River Post
sometime in June. Instead, the two men brought Hubbard’s body south by dogsled,
a feat that must have been quite an adventure in itself, but one tarnished by the
ordeal they had been through and the constant remainder provided by Hubbard’s
rough hewn casket.
Return Expeditions of 1905
The Mina Hubbard Expedition
of 1905
of 1905
The Dillon Wallace Expedition
of 1905
of 1905
After only three years of marriage Mina was now a widow.
She negotiated with Wallace to write the story of the failed
expedition; however, she was displeased with the final
product. She felt that Wallace painted an unfair picture of
Leonidas' responsibility in the failure of the expedition,
showing him to be weak and less capable then Wallace. A
rift developed between the two when Wallace refused to
alter his manuscript. The resulting book, Lure of the
Labrador Wild, became a best-seller in the United States
and Canada.
She negotiated with Wallace to write the story of the failed
expedition; however, she was displeased with the final
product. She felt that Wallace painted an unfair picture of
Leonidas' responsibility in the failure of the expedition,
showing him to be weak and less capable then Wallace. A
rift developed between the two when Wallace refused to
alter his manuscript. The resulting book, Lure of the
Labrador Wild, became a best-seller in the United States
and Canada.
While negotiating with Wallace to change the text of his book, Mina had moved to Williamstown, Massachusetts to escape her empty home in
Congers. Interestingly, Wallace also left the city to put the finishing touches on his book and spent the year after the failed expedition on a family
farm in North Adams, Massachusetts, a mere five miles from Mina’s refuge in the hills.
Mina's displeasure eventually turned to hatred and she began to blame Wallace for her husband's death. In early 1905 Wallace decided he
would return to Labrador and complete the trek as originally envisioned by Hubbard. Mina felt that he was trying to steal credit and fame that
should belong to her husband and she countered Wallace by secretly organizing her own expedition. A race was soon hyped in the press -- who
would be the first to travel across the Labrador interior? Wallace had turned to George Elson to act as guide on the return trip, a clear sign that
Wallace respected Elson’s abilities in the woods, but the offer was declined. Interestingly, when contacted by Mina, Elson agreed to guide her
expedition. Perhaps George felt that he owed this to the widow of the man he had grown so close to over so short a period of time.
Congers. Interestingly, Wallace also left the city to put the finishing touches on his book and spent the year after the failed expedition on a family
farm in North Adams, Massachusetts, a mere five miles from Mina’s refuge in the hills.
Mina's displeasure eventually turned to hatred and she began to blame Wallace for her husband's death. In early 1905 Wallace decided he
would return to Labrador and complete the trek as originally envisioned by Hubbard. Mina felt that he was trying to steal credit and fame that
should belong to her husband and she countered Wallace by secretly organizing her own expedition. A race was soon hyped in the press -- who
would be the first to travel across the Labrador interior? Wallace had turned to George Elson to act as guide on the return trip, a clear sign that
Wallace respected Elson’s abilities in the woods, but the offer was declined. Interestingly, when contacted by Mina, Elson agreed to guide her
expedition. Perhaps George felt that he owed this to the widow of the man he had grown so close to over so short a period of time.
Both of these return expeditions were full of enough adventure and
excitement to make them each noteworthy in their own right, but it is
their connection to the original Hubbard expedition of 1903 that
makes them so much more interesting. The human element is very
present and although Mina and Wallace refused to admit that they
were racing one another, one can not help but assume that
whoever reached the end of the trip first would see that as an
added bonus. Mina’s trip, in addition to being quite an ambitious
undertaking, is especially noteworthy since women explorers were
virtually unheard of at the time. It is also important to realize that
Wallace’s return to Labrador has to be seen as a tribute to his late
friend. Mina’s dislike for Wallace is quite clear in her writing at the
time, but we should not be so quick to share her anger with this man
who clearly loved Leonidas like a brother.
GeorgeElson’s task of guiding Mina Hubbard through the wilderness
of northern Labrador was monumental to say the least. Elson
selected three other native guides to accompany him and Mina: Job
Chapies, a Cree, and Joseph Iserhoff, a Russian-Cree, who were
friends of Elson from the Hudson Bay area; and Gilbert Blake, a
young trapper living in North West River. Beyond the physical
difficulties of bringing Mina across the difficult route would be some
deep reaching psychological issues. If Mina’s group ran into trouble
and she was injured or perished while George survived he would
face a lifetime of ridicule at best, or fall victim to the law at worse.
The idea of a young white woman alone in the wilderness with three
natives and mix blood woodsmen was quite atypical in the early
twentieth century.
Wallace also selected a larger team for his return expedition to
Labrador, the place that had been so inhospitable to him not long
ago. His team was comprised of : their guide, Peter Stevens, a full
blood Ojibway from northern, Minnesota; George Richards, a young
student from Columbia; and Clifford Easton, a 21 year old forestry
student with a 700 mile canoe expedition under his belt from the
previous summer. Rounding out the team was North West River
native, Duncan McLean. This team had a legitimate shot at
completing the route and making a thorough survey of the terrain
that Hubbard had intended to see on his original voyage.
excitement to make them each noteworthy in their own right, but it is
their connection to the original Hubbard expedition of 1903 that
makes them so much more interesting. The human element is very
present and although Mina and Wallace refused to admit that they
were racing one another, one can not help but assume that
whoever reached the end of the trip first would see that as an
added bonus. Mina’s trip, in addition to being quite an ambitious
undertaking, is especially noteworthy since women explorers were
virtually unheard of at the time. It is also important to realize that
Wallace’s return to Labrador has to be seen as a tribute to his late
friend. Mina’s dislike for Wallace is quite clear in her writing at the
time, but we should not be so quick to share her anger with this man
who clearly loved Leonidas like a brother.
GeorgeElson’s task of guiding Mina Hubbard through the wilderness
of northern Labrador was monumental to say the least. Elson
selected three other native guides to accompany him and Mina: Job
Chapies, a Cree, and Joseph Iserhoff, a Russian-Cree, who were
friends of Elson from the Hudson Bay area; and Gilbert Blake, a
young trapper living in North West River. Beyond the physical
difficulties of bringing Mina across the difficult route would be some
deep reaching psychological issues. If Mina’s group ran into trouble
and she was injured or perished while George survived he would
face a lifetime of ridicule at best, or fall victim to the law at worse.
The idea of a young white woman alone in the wilderness with three
natives and mix blood woodsmen was quite atypical in the early
twentieth century.
Wallace also selected a larger team for his return expedition to
Labrador, the place that had been so inhospitable to him not long
ago. His team was comprised of : their guide, Peter Stevens, a full
blood Ojibway from northern, Minnesota; George Richards, a young
student from Columbia; and Clifford Easton, a 21 year old forestry
student with a 700 mile canoe expedition under his belt from the
previous summer. Rounding out the team was North West River
native, Duncan McLean. This team had a legitimate shot at
completing the route and making a thorough survey of the terrain
that Hubbard had intended to see on his original voyage.
The only way to access Labrador at the time was by taking a boat to
Newfoundland and then boarding the Virginia Lake, the one small coast
boat servicing Labrador’s remote fishing villages and Hudson Bay
Company Posts for a few short months each summer. The rival
expeditions found themselves sharing space on the tiny Virginia Lake,
reaching North West River in June 1905 and departed from this post
within only a day of each other. We can only imagine what was said
between the two groups. Would Elson and Wallace have shared
memories from their ordeal, or would their relations have been strained
beyond the point of friendly banter. All we know is that Mina Hubbard and
Dillon Wallace avoided each other as much as possible.
Newfoundland and then boarding the Virginia Lake, the one small coast
boat servicing Labrador’s remote fishing villages and Hudson Bay
Company Posts for a few short months each summer. The rival
expeditions found themselves sharing space on the tiny Virginia Lake,
reaching North West River in June 1905 and departed from this post
within only a day of each other. We can only imagine what was said
between the two groups. Would Elson and Wallace have shared
memories from their ordeal, or would their relations have been strained
beyond the point of friendly banter. All we know is that Mina Hubbard and
Dillon Wallace avoided each other as much as possible.
Mina Hubbard proved to be quite up to the task of undertaking this
expedition across Labrador. Her team crossed Grand Lake in a day
and with knowledge of the Naskapi’s exact location, easily found its
mouth and turned upstream into new territory. While the Naskaupi’s
waters quickly become shallow and rocky with many rapids of
varying sizes, it was possible to paddle, pole, and drag the canoes
up this river for many miles with only an occasional portage. Had
Hubbard found this river in 1903 we can probably safely assume the
outcome of his exploration may have been very different. Mina’s
team pushed on at a steady but comfortable pace and from all
written accounts everyone got along quite well with Mina helping
where she could. The first major decision of the expedition came
when they reached the junction of the Naskaupi and Redwine
Rivers. At this point an old and partially obscured native portage
trail led away from the river to avoid a series of bad rapids. While
following this established route must have been tempting, Mina, with
Geroge’s help, decided to follow the river.
expedition across Labrador. Her team crossed Grand Lake in a day
and with knowledge of the Naskapi’s exact location, easily found its
mouth and turned upstream into new territory. While the Naskaupi’s
waters quickly become shallow and rocky with many rapids of
varying sizes, it was possible to paddle, pole, and drag the canoes
up this river for many miles with only an occasional portage. Had
Hubbard found this river in 1903 we can probably safely assume the
outcome of his exploration may have been very different. Mina’s
team pushed on at a steady but comfortable pace and from all
written accounts everyone got along quite well with Mina helping
where she could. The first major decision of the expedition came
when they reached the junction of the Naskaupi and Redwine
Rivers. At this point an old and partially obscured native portage
trail led away from the river to avoid a series of bad rapids. While
following this established route must have been tempting, Mina, with
Geroge’s help, decided to follow the river.
At this same junction, a day or two behind Hubbard, Wallace and his men
opted for leaving the valley of the Naskaupi and searching for an old Indian
portage route that avoided the long stretch of bad rapids. This decision,
coupled with the fact that Wallace once again decided to head into the
bush while relying on hunting to secure adequate food, resulted in his
journey being considerably rougher and slower than Mina's. The first leg of
Wallace’s portage led for a thousand feet up and out of the Naskaupi Valley
and to a chain of small lakes and ponds that were roughly connected. The
problem was that once out of the river valley route finding became
incredibly difficult as the ancient Indian trail petered out into a series of
smaller trails and become indistinguishable form caribou paths.
While Wallace and his crew suffered in the array of lakes and ponds above
the valley of the Naskaupi, Mina’s team continued to make excellent
progress. Although many bad rapids and falls were encountered along the
Naskaupi as it drained Seal Lake, they were overcome with short portages,
and following the river meant that no time was wasted scouting ahead for
the route. In fact, by the last day of July the team climbed a hill and
obtained its first view of Lake MIchikamau, reaching its waters soon after.
Mina had achieved what her husband had been unable to do and this
success must have come with a great deal of emotions. On August 1, 1903
Elson, Hubbard, and Wallace were still wandering through the swamps near
the head of the Susan River. It must have been difficult for Elson who know
would have realized that if they had found the Naskaupi it is likely that
history would have been different.
opted for leaving the valley of the Naskaupi and searching for an old Indian
portage route that avoided the long stretch of bad rapids. This decision,
coupled with the fact that Wallace once again decided to head into the
bush while relying on hunting to secure adequate food, resulted in his
journey being considerably rougher and slower than Mina's. The first leg of
Wallace’s portage led for a thousand feet up and out of the Naskaupi Valley
and to a chain of small lakes and ponds that were roughly connected. The
problem was that once out of the river valley route finding became
incredibly difficult as the ancient Indian trail petered out into a series of
smaller trails and become indistinguishable form caribou paths.
While Wallace and his crew suffered in the array of lakes and ponds above
the valley of the Naskaupi, Mina’s team continued to make excellent
progress. Although many bad rapids and falls were encountered along the
Naskaupi as it drained Seal Lake, they were overcome with short portages,
and following the river meant that no time was wasted scouting ahead for
the route. In fact, by the last day of July the team climbed a hill and
obtained its first view of Lake MIchikamau, reaching its waters soon after.
Mina had achieved what her husband had been unable to do and this
success must have come with a great deal of emotions. On August 1, 1903
Elson, Hubbard, and Wallace were still wandering through the swamps near
the head of the Susan River. It must have been difficult for Elson who know
would have realized that if they had found the Naskaupi it is likely that
history would have been different.
Encouraged by their excellent progress and happy to find smooth
conditions on Michikamau, Mina’s team moved quickly the next day
and covered a good deal of ground on the huge body of water that
could be shut down by heavy wind driven waves for days. As it turns
out Mina became windbound on Michikamau, but only for a day
which ended up being more of a rest and vacation than anything to
worry about. At the northern end of Michikamau George’s skills as
guide came in handy when he scouted out the route across the
divide between the Atlantic and Arctic watersheds. With minimal
effort he was able to locate a stream flowing in the opposite
direction, a stream that quickly joined the mighty George River, a
huge sub arctic waterway leading to Ungava Bay and the remote
Hudson Bay Company Post at its mouth on Ungava Bay.
It was very near the height of land that Mina experienced the mass
migration of the George River caribou herd, something that
Leonidas had yearned to witness himself. Her excitement is palpable
when reading her journal entries that describe her and the men
running from hill to hill to watch the huge bulls and the almost
equally impressive female’s.
Soon after encountering the caribou, Mina’s team came across a
band of Montagnais Indians camped on the shores of what is now
known as Lake Resolution. These natives told Elson, who was able
to understand some of what they said, that the barren ground or
Naskaupi Indians would be found not far downstream and that there
was still a great distance to travel before reaching the mouth of the
George River. This comment was disturbing to Elson and he briefly
considered turning the trip around to ensure that the trials of
tribulations of 1903 were not repeated, but in the end the decision
was made to push on.
After portaging a treacherous gorge, Mina reached a very fast
stretch of river and again made excellent time. However, the closer
the team drew to the treeless barrens, the more nervous her guides
became. The Naskaupi Indians were virtually unknown at the time
and the Elson, Blake, Iserhoff, and Chapies were legitimately afraid
that they might be attacked and that Mina could be taken prisoner.
Eventually the group reached Indian House Lake, a long and narrow
expansion half way down the George River and in the heart of the
barrens. It was here that they came across the only band of
Naskaupi Indians they would see on their expedition. As it turns out,
all of the men were away trading on the coast and it was the
encampment of Naskaupi women that were afraid of Mina’s
expedition when they saw the canoe approaching. However, the
groups got along very well and the exchange of information must
have been equally welcome for both despite the language barriers
that existed.
conditions on Michikamau, Mina’s team moved quickly the next day
and covered a good deal of ground on the huge body of water that
could be shut down by heavy wind driven waves for days. As it turns
out Mina became windbound on Michikamau, but only for a day
which ended up being more of a rest and vacation than anything to
worry about. At the northern end of Michikamau George’s skills as
guide came in handy when he scouted out the route across the
divide between the Atlantic and Arctic watersheds. With minimal
effort he was able to locate a stream flowing in the opposite
direction, a stream that quickly joined the mighty George River, a
huge sub arctic waterway leading to Ungava Bay and the remote
Hudson Bay Company Post at its mouth on Ungava Bay.
It was very near the height of land that Mina experienced the mass
migration of the George River caribou herd, something that
Leonidas had yearned to witness himself. Her excitement is palpable
when reading her journal entries that describe her and the men
running from hill to hill to watch the huge bulls and the almost
equally impressive female’s.
Soon after encountering the caribou, Mina’s team came across a
band of Montagnais Indians camped on the shores of what is now
known as Lake Resolution. These natives told Elson, who was able
to understand some of what they said, that the barren ground or
Naskaupi Indians would be found not far downstream and that there
was still a great distance to travel before reaching the mouth of the
George River. This comment was disturbing to Elson and he briefly
considered turning the trip around to ensure that the trials of
tribulations of 1903 were not repeated, but in the end the decision
was made to push on.
After portaging a treacherous gorge, Mina reached a very fast
stretch of river and again made excellent time. However, the closer
the team drew to the treeless barrens, the more nervous her guides
became. The Naskaupi Indians were virtually unknown at the time
and the Elson, Blake, Iserhoff, and Chapies were legitimately afraid
that they might be attacked and that Mina could be taken prisoner.
Eventually the group reached Indian House Lake, a long and narrow
expansion half way down the George River and in the heart of the
barrens. It was here that they came across the only band of
Naskaupi Indians they would see on their expedition. As it turns out,
all of the men were away trading on the coast and it was the
encampment of Naskaupi women that were afraid of Mina’s
expedition when they saw the canoe approaching. However, the
groups got along very well and the exchange of information must
have been equally welcome for both despite the language barriers
that existed.
Again, Mina found herself meeting the very group of indigenous people
that her husband had set out to meet on his first and last journey to
Labrador. Elson was extremely encouraged to learn that the remainder of
the river, while full of rapids and often treacherous, could be paddled in
roughly a weeks worth of time. Mina’s diary offers a succinct but accurate
description of the lower George River.
We enquired about the river. All were eager to tell about it, and many
expressive gestures were added to their words to tell that the river was
rapid all the way. An arm held at an angle showed what we were to expect
in the rapids and a vigorous drop of the hand expressed something about
the falls. There would be a few portages but they were not long, and in
some places it would be just a short lift over; but it was all rapid nearly.
It with a bit of haste that Hubbard leaves the Naskaupi and continues on
down the George River. In another perfectly brief description, Mina refers
to the lower George as “The world on a tilt”, and modern day travelers can
attest to the fact that it is possible to float fifty miles days on some parts of
this river. The only mishap on the lower river for Mina came when they
were almost swept into the mile long turmoil of Helen Falls less than fifty
miles from the end of the journey.
Then on August 27th, 1905 Mina Hubbard reached George River Post at
the mouth of the George River and completed the monumental task that
her husband had set out to achieve two years earlier. The yearly supply
ship had not yet come to the post and she would be able to secure a ride
south, thus avoiding a long and taxing arctic winter. Along the way she
developed a deep connection with the land and more surprisingly, with
George Elson. While the details of the nature of the relationship between
the two may never be known, we do know that the two were quite fond of
each other. Elson routinely refers to Mina’s smile, hair, and eyes in his
journal and refers to a separate book on several occasions. Who knows
what information that book holds. Whether or not Mina and George were
falling in love is a subject left open to debate, but we do know that they
shared a deep connection during and after the trip. Mina even went as far
as visiting Elson at Moose Factory Island, his home on the southern tip of
James Bay, some years after the expedition For Mina Hubbard, George
Elson, Gilbert Blake, Joe Iserhoff, and Job Chapies, the expedition was a
smashing success, but what of Wallace and his team?
that her husband had set out to meet on his first and last journey to
Labrador. Elson was extremely encouraged to learn that the remainder of
the river, while full of rapids and often treacherous, could be paddled in
roughly a weeks worth of time. Mina’s diary offers a succinct but accurate
description of the lower George River.
We enquired about the river. All were eager to tell about it, and many
expressive gestures were added to their words to tell that the river was
rapid all the way. An arm held at an angle showed what we were to expect
in the rapids and a vigorous drop of the hand expressed something about
the falls. There would be a few portages but they were not long, and in
some places it would be just a short lift over; but it was all rapid nearly.
It with a bit of haste that Hubbard leaves the Naskaupi and continues on
down the George River. In another perfectly brief description, Mina refers
to the lower George as “The world on a tilt”, and modern day travelers can
attest to the fact that it is possible to float fifty miles days on some parts of
this river. The only mishap on the lower river for Mina came when they
were almost swept into the mile long turmoil of Helen Falls less than fifty
miles from the end of the journey.
Then on August 27th, 1905 Mina Hubbard reached George River Post at
the mouth of the George River and completed the monumental task that
her husband had set out to achieve two years earlier. The yearly supply
ship had not yet come to the post and she would be able to secure a ride
south, thus avoiding a long and taxing arctic winter. Along the way she
developed a deep connection with the land and more surprisingly, with
George Elson. While the details of the nature of the relationship between
the two may never be known, we do know that the two were quite fond of
each other. Elson routinely refers to Mina’s smile, hair, and eyes in his
journal and refers to a separate book on several occasions. Who knows
what information that book holds. Whether or not Mina and George were
falling in love is a subject left open to debate, but we do know that they
shared a deep connection during and after the trip. Mina even went as far
as visiting Elson at Moose Factory Island, his home on the southern tip of
James Bay, some years after the expedition For Mina Hubbard, George
Elson, Gilbert Blake, Joe Iserhoff, and Job Chapies, the expedition was a
smashing success, but what of Wallace and his team?
After many long back breaking days on the portage route around the
rapids of the lower Naskaupi River Wallace’s battered crew emerged
on the shores of Seal Lake with food stores dwindling. In the following
days Wallace’s team would push on, apparently having difficulty with
route finding. However, with perseverance, the expedition reached
the shores of Lake Michikamau on September 4th, several days after
Mina Hubbard had completed her trip at Ungava Bay.
While not nearly in as poor shape as he had been in 1903, Wallace
and his crew was extremely low on food, and the prospect of all four
men reaching their destination looked slim. Hunting opportunities
were scarce and the fishing only sporadically good. Wallace decided
that his only chance for success lay in dividing his group, sending
three men back to North West River Post and continuing on with only
Clifford Easton as a companion. Once the decision was made little
else needed to be done except to actually part ways. While Easton
must have been excited to make such a bold move, he also must
have thought on at least one occasion about the similarities between
his situation and those faced by the Hubbard expedition of 1903.
Wallace managed to move across Michikamau quickly and a credit
deal of credit must be given to these two explorers for successfully
navigating the confusing bodies of water near the height of land and
finding the head of the George River. Despite the fact that Wallace
was becoming an accomplished wilderness explorer, he still lacked
years of experience and met with disaster part way down the upper
George River. In a rapid just above a mandatory portage around
three wild gorges Wallace and Easton capsized their canoe, plunging
them into the icy water during a blizzard and loosing much gear,
including a rifle. It was only with the last match that these desperate
men were able to kindle a fire large enough to dry their thin summer
clothes and save themselves from death by exposure.
rapids of the lower Naskaupi River Wallace’s battered crew emerged
on the shores of Seal Lake with food stores dwindling. In the following
days Wallace’s team would push on, apparently having difficulty with
route finding. However, with perseverance, the expedition reached
the shores of Lake Michikamau on September 4th, several days after
Mina Hubbard had completed her trip at Ungava Bay.
While not nearly in as poor shape as he had been in 1903, Wallace
and his crew was extremely low on food, and the prospect of all four
men reaching their destination looked slim. Hunting opportunities
were scarce and the fishing only sporadically good. Wallace decided
that his only chance for success lay in dividing his group, sending
three men back to North West River Post and continuing on with only
Clifford Easton as a companion. Once the decision was made little
else needed to be done except to actually part ways. While Easton
must have been excited to make such a bold move, he also must
have thought on at least one occasion about the similarities between
his situation and those faced by the Hubbard expedition of 1903.
Wallace managed to move across Michikamau quickly and a credit
deal of credit must be given to these two explorers for successfully
navigating the confusing bodies of water near the height of land and
finding the head of the George River. Despite the fact that Wallace
was becoming an accomplished wilderness explorer, he still lacked
years of experience and met with disaster part way down the upper
George River. In a rapid just above a mandatory portage around
three wild gorges Wallace and Easton capsized their canoe, plunging
them into the icy water during a blizzard and loosing much gear,
including a rifle. It was only with the last match that these desperate
men were able to kindle a fire large enough to dry their thin summer
clothes and save themselves from death by exposure.
Despite the trouble, Wallace and Easton bravely pushed on, eventually
reaching his destination at the Hudson Bay Company post on October
16, more than six weeks after Mina's arrival and just in time to catch a
ride south on the yearly steamer. However, Wallace could not bare the
idea of heading home confined on a ship with Mina Hubbard. Instead he
hatched another grand adventure when he decided to dogsled home
around the northern tip of Labrador until he reached open water in the
south where he would be able to catch a ship in the spring. No dogsleds
teams were available at George River Post so Wallace undertook a
journey by small boat across Ungava Bay to Fort Chimo where he faced
thirty five foot tides, ferocious storms, and a capsize that nearly took his
life yet again. Eventually he succeeded in obtaining a dogsled team and
making his way, once again facing starvation and miserable conditions,
but arriving successfully at his destination and returning to New York City
with wealth of incredibly experiences.
reaching his destination at the Hudson Bay Company post on October
16, more than six weeks after Mina's arrival and just in time to catch a
ride south on the yearly steamer. However, Wallace could not bare the
idea of heading home confined on a ship with Mina Hubbard. Instead he
hatched another grand adventure when he decided to dogsled home
around the northern tip of Labrador until he reached open water in the
south where he would be able to catch a ship in the spring. No dogsleds
teams were available at George River Post so Wallace undertook a
journey by small boat across Ungava Bay to Fort Chimo where he faced
thirty five foot tides, ferocious storms, and a capsize that nearly took his
life yet again. Eventually he succeeded in obtaining a dogsled team and
making his way, once again facing starvation and miserable conditions,
but arriving successfully at his destination and returning to New York City
with wealth of incredibly experiences.
Mina Hubbard
George Elson
Job Chapies
Gilbert Blake
Joseph Iserhof
Hubbard's Labrador was largely unexplored.
Dillon Wallace at Northwest River Post prior to departing in 1903.
Leonidas Hubbard looks over the outfit before launching into the unknown from
Northwest River Post in 1903.
Northwest River Post in 1903.
Wallace and Elson drag their boat up what appears to be the Beaver River. Our
expedition proceeded in much the same fashion.
expedition proceeded in much the same fashion.
In a scene that could have come from our expedition, Elson and Wallace discuss
strategy or perhaps dinner somewhere along Susan Brook.
strategy or perhaps dinner somewhere along Susan Brook.
The team prepares for another back breaking portage through the forest and without
maps.
maps.
George Elson in 1903 with the goose he shot that gave Goose Creek its
name.
name.
This caribou was the most significant food the team hunted in their ill fated
expedition.
expedition.
In the hundred years between our trip and Hubbard's Expedition it is likely
only a handful of people have stood here.
only a handful of people have stood here.
The team carefully unloads their delicate wood and canvas canoe. Besides maps, the
biggest advantage that we had on our trip were stronger boats.
biggest advantage that we had on our trip were stronger boats.
By the time Hubbard laid eyes on Michikamau (seen here) it was already
too late for them to continue on.
too late for them to continue on.
Wallace inspects his axe, a tool that would have been much more
useful to the 1903 expedition than ours.
useful to the 1903 expedition than ours.
One of the team's camps during their retreat back to Northwest River Post.
The number of felled trees in this picture shows how the team would have spent
considerable time clearing camps and making tent poles.
considerable time clearing camps and making tent poles.
On their retreat back down the Beaver River, the team was too tired to portage, so they
often ended up running the rapids.
often ended up running the rapids.
Wallace portaging somewhere in the Labrador bush with two Geese
strapped to his pack.
strapped to his pack.
The somewhat dramatic picture show Hubbard's condition at some point
along the retreat back to Northwest River Post.
along the retreat back to Northwest River Post.
Hubbard's Rock, with the inscription left by a return party. Some of Hubbard's items can be
seen displayed on the smaller stone in front of the boulder.
seen displayed on the smaller stone in front of the boulder.
Although gone today, a trappers cabin sat at the western end of
Grand Lake in 1903.
Grand Lake in 1903.
The crew that rescued Elson and Wallace posing back on Grand
Lake.
Lake.
Hubbard's body (in the casket seen by the men) was taken by dogsled down the barren coast
of the North Atlantic in the spring of 1904.
of the North Atlantic in the spring of 1904.
Wallace's crew getting ready to depart on their 1905 expedition to Ungava Bay.
Save for the addition of a highway bridge near this site, little has changed at Northwest
River Post since this picture was taken in 1905.
River Post since this picture was taken in 1905.
A canoe is poled up the whitewater of the Naskapi River en route to the interior and Lake
Michikamau. Today an upstream dam had removed much of the water in this river.
Michikamau. Today an upstream dam had removed much of the water in this river.
Mina Hubbard appears to be preparing tea at a camp somewhere in
Labrador's remote interior.
Labrador's remote interior.
Mina's team somewhere along the Naskapi River. Since our team did not venture into
this region, I can provide the exact location of the picture.
this region, I can provide the exact location of the picture.
Both Mina Hubbard and Dillon Wallace would have encountered long portages
like the one seen in this picture.
like the one seen in this picture.
| I am still working on identifying team members from Wallace's return expedition from available photographs. |
Dillon Wallace
Two members of Mina's expedition work to free a capsized canoe somewhere along the
Naskapi River en route to Michikamau.
Naskapi River en route to Michikamau.
A lone member of Mina's team looks out at a large falls on the Naskapi River. Today the
volume of water in this river has been drastically reduced by Smallwood Reservoirs.
volume of water in this river has been drastically reduced by Smallwood Reservoirs.
The means of traveling upstream with a canoe have not changed much over the course
of the last hundred years. We did exactly the same thing minus the poling.
of the last hundred years. We did exactly the same thing minus the poling.
Mina Hubbard addresses a group of woman that are probably from the band
of Innu that she met near Lac Advance.
of Innu that she met near Lac Advance.
A group of natives poses for Mina somewhere along the George River.
One of Mina's canoes cruises along the lower George River on the way to
Ungava Bay.
Ungava Bay.
Just as we did on our trip down the George, the members of the
1905 expedition stayed close to shore when facing larger rapids.
1905 expedition stayed close to shore when facing larger rapids.
Mina Hubbard reaches Ungava Bay and is greeted by the manager of the Hudson Bay
Company Post at Ford Island.
Company Post at Ford Island.
Men from Wallace's expedition stand for a photograph near the canoes somewhere
on their route to the interior.
on their route to the interior.
Wallace's crew poles their way up the Naskapi River before starting their heinous
overland portage.
overland portage.
The portage that Wallace's team undertook brought them through some of
Labrador's harshest terrain.
Labrador's harshest terrain.
A familiar seen for anyone that has spent time paddling in the north. Wallace enjoys
tea while resting on a remote lake.
tea while resting on a remote lake.