The Illinois River
Location - Selma, OR to Rouge River
Difficulty - Class II, III, IV, IV+ Length - 35 miles
Level - 800 to 1,400 cfs on Kirby Gauge
Date - 4/7 and 4/8/2007
Difficulty - Class II, III, IV, IV+ Length - 35 miles
Level - 800 to 1,400 cfs on Kirby Gauge
Date - 4/7 and 4/8/2007
After a week of planning six of us headed south to the Illinois
River for a self supported overnight trip on this famed wilderness
run. The Illinois is a river with a reputation for dealing harshly
with groups that are unprepared for its many rapids, isolation,
and flashy run off pattern. For thirty five miles this large river
flows through a rugged valley containing no roads, many rapids,
several canyons, and a harsh landscape. The run's 150
individual rapids are mostly class III and IV, but one class IV+
piece known as The Green Wall lies at the heart of this stretch.
Although some guidebooks say this drop can not be portaged,
at low flows this is not entirely true. For a kayaker the carry
would be pretty easy, and a terrified raft crew could complete the
task in an hour or two. Perhaps the single most significant factor
giving the Illinois its reputation is the fact that its water level rises
and falls so quickly.
River for a self supported overnight trip on this famed wilderness
run. The Illinois is a river with a reputation for dealing harshly
with groups that are unprepared for its many rapids, isolation,
and flashy run off pattern. For thirty five miles this large river
flows through a rugged valley containing no roads, many rapids,
several canyons, and a harsh landscape. The run's 150
individual rapids are mostly class III and IV, but one class IV+
piece known as The Green Wall lies at the heart of this stretch.
Although some guidebooks say this drop can not be portaged,
at low flows this is not entirely true. For a kayaker the carry
would be pretty easy, and a terrified raft crew could complete the
task in an hour or two. Perhaps the single most significant factor
giving the Illinois its reputation is the fact that its water level rises
and falls so quickly.
The river level changes so quickly due to the fact that there are
no dams in the entire watershed and the steep sided mountains
are only sparsely vegetated with some evergreens and small
oak. The thin topsoil does little to hold back rain and if a storm
is forecasted putting on the Illinois is not a great idea. In the
spring of 1998 a group of rafters set out for a trip and two
people drowned when the river flash flooded to a level five times
its maximum recommended flow.
Our group was lucky to have a favorable forecast combined with
a nice water level. The only gauge on the river was reading just
under 1,000 cfs and the weather was supposed to be warm and
partly cloudy with a few showers predicted for Saturday morning.
A warm weather self support trip sounded perfect and by Friday
at five our team of six was assembled at Nate's house in
Eugene. One of our friends was kind enough to drive us all
down in his van with the gear stowed away in a trailer. Using
only one vehicle would keep the cost of this trip to a minimum as
we could split the price of fuel and divide the shuttle expense as
well.
It was sunny and seventy five when we pulled out of Eugene and
still pretty nice out when we turned off of the pavement three
hours later in Cave Junction. Ten miles of snaking along a
narrow one lane forest service road brought us to a campsite
complete with a covered pavilion where we would enjoy a few
beers and sleep without worrying about the elements. A steady
drizzle blew through just after midnight but the precipitation was
basically over at first light. Waking up in this beautiful valley full
of lifting fog, blooming trees, and wild flowers was a treat and
everyone was excited to get on the water. Our shuttle driver
showed up by 8:15, we stuffed our kayaks full of gear, and made
the forty minute drive down the single lane dirt road to the
launch at Miami Bar. Rainbows hung over the valley of the
Illinois and glimpses of the crystal clear green waters of the river
could be seen through openings in the trees.
no dams in the entire watershed and the steep sided mountains
are only sparsely vegetated with some evergreens and small
oak. The thin topsoil does little to hold back rain and if a storm
is forecasted putting on the Illinois is not a great idea. In the
spring of 1998 a group of rafters set out for a trip and two
people drowned when the river flash flooded to a level five times
its maximum recommended flow.
Our group was lucky to have a favorable forecast combined with
a nice water level. The only gauge on the river was reading just
under 1,000 cfs and the weather was supposed to be warm and
partly cloudy with a few showers predicted for Saturday morning.
A warm weather self support trip sounded perfect and by Friday
at five our team of six was assembled at Nate's house in
Eugene. One of our friends was kind enough to drive us all
down in his van with the gear stowed away in a trailer. Using
only one vehicle would keep the cost of this trip to a minimum as
we could split the price of fuel and divide the shuttle expense as
well.
It was sunny and seventy five when we pulled out of Eugene and
still pretty nice out when we turned off of the pavement three
hours later in Cave Junction. Ten miles of snaking along a
narrow one lane forest service road brought us to a campsite
complete with a covered pavilion where we would enjoy a few
beers and sleep without worrying about the elements. A steady
drizzle blew through just after midnight but the precipitation was
basically over at first light. Waking up in this beautiful valley full
of lifting fog, blooming trees, and wild flowers was a treat and
everyone was excited to get on the water. Our shuttle driver
showed up by 8:15, we stuffed our kayaks full of gear, and made
the forty minute drive down the single lane dirt road to the
launch at Miami Bar. Rainbows hung over the valley of the
Illinois and glimpses of the crystal clear green waters of the river
could be seen through openings in the trees.
The camping here was top notch and the sunshine combined
with a stiff breeze made it easy to dry out our gear by laying it
acrossthe boats and up on warm rocks. An ample flat area
would be great for sleeping and while some folks set up their
bivy gear others gathered fire wood and hung out. A few small
lizards ran around and poison oak choked the hillside above
camp, but other than that the spot was just about perfect. A
large boulder made a great spot for housing the fire, and
everyone was in high spirits. We had seen some amazing
scenery, paddled fun whitewater, and had a spectacular
campsite all to ourselves. Tomorrow would bring bigger rapids,
more impressive scenery, and hopefully continued good
weather. Despite being excited about the rest of the river we all
relaxed and enjoyed a great evening in camp.
Since we were self supporting out of our kayaks the camp was
no frills. I ate a cold can of Dinty Moore Beef stew, but others
had more elaborate versions of dinner. The dry oak driftwood
burned long and slow providing a hot bed of coals for us to relax
around until well after the sun set and the stars came out on
what started as a clear evening. By the time we headed to bed
even Venus's incredibly bright glow had disappeared behind
some thin clouds.
The next morning dawned overcast, but a bright sky and patches
of blue indicated a clearing trend. After a quick morning routine
we were out on the water again and within ten minutes had
reached the top of Fawn Falls. This class IV drop looks
intimidating from above as the horizon line is broken into three
steep chutes. We boat scouted the river right line and found a
twisting drop into a pool. From below both the middle and left
lines looked like a lot of fun even though they held bigger holes
below. No one had any trouble here and we headed
downstream quickly, knowing that The Green Wall, the crux of
the trip, lay just around the next bend.
The river ran through an easy class II+ before the lead into the
wall started. The top of the big rapid is a steep class III+ with
some holes and fast currents. A few of our group got out above
this rapid to scout The Green Wall, but I headed down with
Sebastian and caught the last eddy above the actual drop,
reducing the distance we had to walk for the scout by a hundred
yards.
The very next weekend we came back and did the run at a
higher level and I found the lead in to be pushier, but still had no
trouble catching the last eddy. Boaters not very confident in
their ability to make the river left eddy will probably want to get
out of their boats above the lead in on the left to make the scout
their first time down. Running The Green Wall blind without
knowing the line would be pretty exciting.
with a stiff breeze made it easy to dry out our gear by laying it
acrossthe boats and up on warm rocks. An ample flat area
would be great for sleeping and while some folks set up their
bivy gear others gathered fire wood and hung out. A few small
lizards ran around and poison oak choked the hillside above
camp, but other than that the spot was just about perfect. A
large boulder made a great spot for housing the fire, and
everyone was in high spirits. We had seen some amazing
scenery, paddled fun whitewater, and had a spectacular
campsite all to ourselves. Tomorrow would bring bigger rapids,
more impressive scenery, and hopefully continued good
weather. Despite being excited about the rest of the river we all
relaxed and enjoyed a great evening in camp.
Since we were self supporting out of our kayaks the camp was
no frills. I ate a cold can of Dinty Moore Beef stew, but others
had more elaborate versions of dinner. The dry oak driftwood
burned long and slow providing a hot bed of coals for us to relax
around until well after the sun set and the stars came out on
what started as a clear evening. By the time we headed to bed
even Venus's incredibly bright glow had disappeared behind
some thin clouds.
The next morning dawned overcast, but a bright sky and patches
of blue indicated a clearing trend. After a quick morning routine
we were out on the water again and within ten minutes had
reached the top of Fawn Falls. This class IV drop looks
intimidating from above as the horizon line is broken into three
steep chutes. We boat scouted the river right line and found a
twisting drop into a pool. From below both the middle and left
lines looked like a lot of fun even though they held bigger holes
below. No one had any trouble here and we headed
downstream quickly, knowing that The Green Wall, the crux of
the trip, lay just around the next bend.
The river ran through an easy class II+ before the lead into the
wall started. The top of the big rapid is a steep class III+ with
some holes and fast currents. A few of our group got out above
this rapid to scout The Green Wall, but I headed down with
Sebastian and caught the last eddy above the actual drop,
reducing the distance we had to walk for the scout by a hundred
yards.
The very next weekend we came back and did the run at a
higher level and I found the lead in to be pushier, but still had no
trouble catching the last eddy. Boaters not very confident in
their ability to make the river left eddy will probably want to get
out of their boats above the lead in on the left to make the scout
their first time down. Running The Green Wall blind without
knowing the line would be pretty exciting.
The Green Wall is an impressive piece of whitewater about two hundred yards long that drops pretty steeply over two main ledges. The top drop is definitely the most
difficult part of the rapid and being on line is very important. The top ledge is about eight feet tall and divided into four channels. The river right side narrows and falls
into a nasty crack before plowing into the undercut cliff wall. Heading through this slot at low water could be fatal, but the good news is that it would be very tough to get
over there even if you were trying. The next slot to the left drops into a big hole. At the level we saw on our first trip down the best line was through the third slot to the
left which funneled harmlessly through some squirley water. On my second trip the flow was higher and this slot was ugly, with the best line being a boof off of the center
pourover. The far left slot is a sneak at any level and makes the rapid significantly easier.
After the first ledge river left becomes a nasty jumble of boulders and most of the current heads to the right and runs through fast water to the last drop which falls
through a big hole taking up most of the middle and left side of the river. A nice tongue runs down the right center, but it is not completely apparent from upstream until
you are right on top of it. After passing the hole a good deal of the current slams into the river right wall before mellowing out in the pool below. For a competent
kayaker the rapid is not much of a concern, especially since the tricky first drop can be snuck easily. However, rafters have no option but to line up and run the gut of
the wall. Portaging this stretch with a raft could be a half day affair and anyone heading down the Illinois should be ready to run this class IV+ rapid.
difficult part of the rapid and being on line is very important. The top ledge is about eight feet tall and divided into four channels. The river right side narrows and falls
into a nasty crack before plowing into the undercut cliff wall. Heading through this slot at low water could be fatal, but the good news is that it would be very tough to get
over there even if you were trying. The next slot to the left drops into a big hole. At the level we saw on our first trip down the best line was through the third slot to the
left which funneled harmlessly through some squirley water. On my second trip the flow was higher and this slot was ugly, with the best line being a boof off of the center
pourover. The far left slot is a sneak at any level and makes the rapid significantly easier.
After the first ledge river left becomes a nasty jumble of boulders and most of the current heads to the right and runs through fast water to the last drop which falls
through a big hole taking up most of the middle and left side of the river. A nice tongue runs down the right center, but it is not completely apparent from upstream until
you are right on top of it. After passing the hole a good deal of the current slams into the river right wall before mellowing out in the pool below. For a competent
kayaker the rapid is not much of a concern, especially since the tricky first drop can be snuck easily. However, rafters have no option but to line up and run the gut of
the wall. Portaging this stretch with a raft could be a half day affair and anyone heading down the Illinois should be ready to run this class IV+ rapid.
The next five miles hold many fun rapids that are all boat scoutable and very fun. There are many big and powerful eddies, surf waves, and some hydraulics to avoid.
The next drop that is likely to stand out is The Little Green Wall. This rapid is recognized by a horizon line with boulders obscuring downstream vision. For the kayakers
it was easy to eddy hop through this stretch and pick clean lines, but rafters had to make a move around a huge boulder at the bottom that looked like it could be tricky.
Many fun rapids follow and in general the obvious routes are clean and fun. We eddy hopped through this stretch and took time to surf many of the fast catch on the fly
waves that were abundant. A couple of bigger rapids are interspersed through here, but most can be run in a number of ways. The last notable drop is Submarine Hole,
a steeper rapid with a nasty undercut chute on the bottom right and a big boulder blocking the center of the river at the end of the drop that becomes a large hole at
some levels. A last class III follows this and soon the Illinois settles down and enters a calm but moving stretch the cuts through a gorgeous canyon. Although some fun
stretches of river are found in the float out, boaters can rest easy at this point because they have cleared all of the significant rapids on the Illinois.
On out first trip down we stopped to have a lunch break in this first placid canyon were we lounged in the sun and enjoyed the croaking of frogs and watched many
salamanders messing around in the vernal pools found collected in the crevices and potholes of the water worn rock lining the river. Everyone was excited about the
morning and happy to have had the opportunity to paddle this classic river in such nice weather.
The next drop that is likely to stand out is The Little Green Wall. This rapid is recognized by a horizon line with boulders obscuring downstream vision. For the kayakers
it was easy to eddy hop through this stretch and pick clean lines, but rafters had to make a move around a huge boulder at the bottom that looked like it could be tricky.
Many fun rapids follow and in general the obvious routes are clean and fun. We eddy hopped through this stretch and took time to surf many of the fast catch on the fly
waves that were abundant. A couple of bigger rapids are interspersed through here, but most can be run in a number of ways. The last notable drop is Submarine Hole,
a steeper rapid with a nasty undercut chute on the bottom right and a big boulder blocking the center of the river at the end of the drop that becomes a large hole at
some levels. A last class III follows this and soon the Illinois settles down and enters a calm but moving stretch the cuts through a gorgeous canyon. Although some fun
stretches of river are found in the float out, boaters can rest easy at this point because they have cleared all of the significant rapids on the Illinois.
On out first trip down we stopped to have a lunch break in this first placid canyon were we lounged in the sun and enjoyed the croaking of frogs and watched many
salamanders messing around in the vernal pools found collected in the crevices and potholes of the water worn rock lining the river. Everyone was excited about the
morning and happy to have had the opportunity to paddle this classic river in such nice weather.
The float out on the Illinois is about ten miles long and while there are no huge rapids, the scenery is phenomenal, the current is pretty continuous, and there
are even some fun surf waves. The river picks up a few large tributaries that increase the volume and most of the class II - III rapids are made by big gravel
bars. The canyon here is quite deep and the geology changes around every corner. There are a few places where the river walls rise hundreds of feet
vertically above the water and numerous waterfalls tumble down from the heights.
While making our way through this final stretch we saw a bald eagle perched on a tree limb above the very last class III of the river. Although small for an eagle
the animal remained majestic ans watched us intently as we exited his world and came closer to the takeout and the route of daily life. In another mile or so the
Illinois rounded a left bend and the valley suddenly opened up as the Rouge / Siskyou Wilderness area is left behind. We were good and tired at this point and
happy to see our shuttle driver pull into the large meadow that marks to take out at Oak Flat. Changing up in the sunshine and seventy degree temperatures
was a great way to wrap up the second day of this trip and made for an unforgettable Easter Sunday. In fact, the run was so much fun that I returned the very
next weekend with some of the same crew for a raft supported paddle down the Illinois. Pictures on this page are from both of these trips.
are even some fun surf waves. The river picks up a few large tributaries that increase the volume and most of the class II - III rapids are made by big gravel
bars. The canyon here is quite deep and the geology changes around every corner. There are a few places where the river walls rise hundreds of feet
vertically above the water and numerous waterfalls tumble down from the heights.
While making our way through this final stretch we saw a bald eagle perched on a tree limb above the very last class III of the river. Although small for an eagle
the animal remained majestic ans watched us intently as we exited his world and came closer to the takeout and the route of daily life. In another mile or so the
Illinois rounded a left bend and the valley suddenly opened up as the Rouge / Siskyou Wilderness area is left behind. We were good and tired at this point and
happy to see our shuttle driver pull into the large meadow that marks to take out at Oak Flat. Changing up in the sunshine and seventy degree temperatures
was a great way to wrap up the second day of this trip and made for an unforgettable Easter Sunday. In fact, the run was so much fun that I returned the very
next weekend with some of the same crew for a raft supported paddle down the Illinois. Pictures on this page are from both of these trips.
One of the first fun class III rapids on the Illinois. The drops only get more fun after this initial warm up stretch.
Steve finishing up one of the fun rapids found on the first half of the Illinois River. This drop is typical of much of
the whitewater found in the first fifteen miles.
the whitewater found in the first fifteen miles.
Our group stretches and enjoys the sun at a nice gravel beach on the Illinois River about ten
or twelve miles into the first day.
or twelve miles into the first day.
Our team enjoying the warmth of a nice campfire at South Bend, the last real good
campsite before the toughest six mile stretch of rapids on the run.
campsite before the toughest six mile stretch of rapids on the run.
Steve lining up to run the middle slot of Fawn Falls on my second trip down the Illinois in two weeks.
Scott dropping into the meat of the left chute at Fawn Falls. The hole at the bottom is actually much friendlier than it looks in this picture.
Sebastian Eddied out above The Green Wall. The lead in rapid can be seen upstream
here and the current exiting the picture on the left flows directly into The Green Wall.
here and the current exiting the picture on the left flows directly into The Green Wall.
Sebastian below the first drop in The Green Wall and heading down to run the final drop not
seen in this picture.
seen in this picture.
One of the catarafts supporting our group on my second trip down the Illinois clears the first drop of The Green Wall.
Steve running the middle section of The Green Wall. Upstream the nasty looking river right slot at the top drop can be seen and it is obvious why you
would want to avoid it.
would want to avoid it.
Scott running the bottom of The Green Wall and threading his way between a few big holes that are best avoided.
Connor paddling into the last drop of The Green Wall on line and under control.
One of the catarafts punching into the big hole at the bottom of The Green Wall on my second trip down the river.
Jason enjoying some of the great scenery on the second half of the Illinois just below The
Green Wall and above a five mile section of nearly continous rapids.
Green Wall and above a five mile section of nearly continous rapids.
Jason finishing up one of the fun class IV rapids in the stretch of whitewater following The Green Wall.
A cataraft entering one of the bigger rapids in the fun section of rapids that started off our second day on the Illinois River.
Someone managed to take a picture of me enjoying the amazing canyon just below all of the
fun whitewater at the start of the scenic float out of the Illinois.
fun whitewater at the start of the scenic float out of the Illinois.
The float out of the Illinois moves along and takes paddlers through some spectacular canyons.
Part of our group floats through another amazing canyon on the lower Illinois a fee miles
above the takeout.
above the takeout.
The large gravel bar at the put in provided plenty of room for us to get geared up and make final preparations. The sun was poking through the clouds as the day
cleared and everyone enjoyed the first few miles of river that contained quickwater and several class II rapids. This easy section allowed us to warm up and get used to
the loaded boats. I was paddling an old Freefall and it felt great to be in a fast long boat. I had loaded my kayak so it was bow heavy and this made it a little less
responsive, but it handled well enough and I was comfortable with the set up for today.
After a few miles the weather continued to improve and we reached our first stretch of significant rapids. The next five or six miles held many fun class III drops that were
big and fun, contained many eddies that made boat scouting easy, and lent themselves to a slalom style of paddling. At this lower water level the rapids were not too
pushy and although there were some big holes to avoid, doing this was generally not difficult. The blue green water made the whitewater look gorgeous and enough
surf waves kept things interesting and fun. The towering valley walls were beautiful and vegetated with a diverse mix of plants. This diversity is in part due to the
enormous Biscuit Fire that burnt through this area about five years ago and removed some of the thick forest allowing light to reach the ground. Springtime was in full
swing here and things could not have been much more perfect.
Eventually we reached a few steeper rapids that required solid water reading ability and some moves around boulders and big holes. The hardest part of this stretch
came where the river swung left and then narrowed before dropping between narrow cliff walls. From above the hole at the bottom looked big, but it seemed like there
was a clean line to the right.
cleared and everyone enjoyed the first few miles of river that contained quickwater and several class II rapids. This easy section allowed us to warm up and get used to
the loaded boats. I was paddling an old Freefall and it felt great to be in a fast long boat. I had loaded my kayak so it was bow heavy and this made it a little less
responsive, but it handled well enough and I was comfortable with the set up for today.
After a few miles the weather continued to improve and we reached our first stretch of significant rapids. The next five or six miles held many fun class III drops that were
big and fun, contained many eddies that made boat scouting easy, and lent themselves to a slalom style of paddling. At this lower water level the rapids were not too
pushy and although there were some big holes to avoid, doing this was generally not difficult. The blue green water made the whitewater look gorgeous and enough
surf waves kept things interesting and fun. The towering valley walls were beautiful and vegetated with a diverse mix of plants. This diversity is in part due to the
enormous Biscuit Fire that burnt through this area about five years ago and removed some of the thick forest allowing light to reach the ground. Springtime was in full
swing here and things could not have been much more perfect.
Eventually we reached a few steeper rapids that required solid water reading ability and some moves around boulders and big holes. The hardest part of this stretch
came where the river swung left and then narrowed before dropping between narrow cliff walls. From above the hole at the bottom looked big, but it seemed like there
was a clean line to the right.
As I ran down the center a first wave knocked me over and I tucked up to ride through the big hole before rolling. A few more fun drops followed and soon a longer
flat stretch was reached. Some class III water lead to the steeper rapid at Pine Flat. The river bottom becomes ledgey above here and this indicated that Pine Flat
is about to come. This rapid is rated as class IV+ in the book, but at this water level it was a simple ramp into a breaking wave. A hidden rock at the top knocked a
few people over, but the route was generally easy. At higher flows I can see this drop getting pretty big, but it would never be complex.
Pine Flat has a huge series of meadows that would be excellent for camping, but we needed top travel more than seven miles today. The next seven or eight miles
to camp contained many fun class III rapids and we enjoyed the nice sunny weather. The farther we went the deeper and narrower the valley became and some
more interesting rapids following the confluence of Klondike Creek on river left. It was getting to be three o'clock and everyone was feeling the desire to pull off of
the water and relax. Our designated campsite at South Bend was approaching and by the time we reached the huge pink boulder marking the gravel bar and
beach site everyone was ready to get out of their boats.
flat stretch was reached. Some class III water lead to the steeper rapid at Pine Flat. The river bottom becomes ledgey above here and this indicated that Pine Flat
is about to come. This rapid is rated as class IV+ in the book, but at this water level it was a simple ramp into a breaking wave. A hidden rock at the top knocked a
few people over, but the route was generally easy. At higher flows I can see this drop getting pretty big, but it would never be complex.
Pine Flat has a huge series of meadows that would be excellent for camping, but we needed top travel more than seven miles today. The next seven or eight miles
to camp contained many fun class III rapids and we enjoyed the nice sunny weather. The farther we went the deeper and narrower the valley became and some
more interesting rapids following the confluence of Klondike Creek on river left. It was getting to be three o'clock and everyone was feeling the desire to pull off of
the water and relax. Our designated campsite at South Bend was approaching and by the time we reached the huge pink boulder marking the gravel bar and
beach site everyone was ready to get out of their boats.
On my second trip down the Illinois the flow was higher and the big hole at the bottom was large. We had raft support on this trip and there was plenty of excitement
although everyone eventually made it to the river left eddy below the drop happy and no worse for wear. This is a spectacular place, with the crystal clear water of
the Illinois contrasting with the dark rock of the hundred foot high river right wall and the shoreline vegetation leafing out in greens of every shade. River left here is
a huge pile of house sized boulders that make great viewing platforms and good places for setting safety and taking pictures. Below The Green Wall is a fun class III
before the Illinois squeezes through a narrow canyon and heads off into five miles of high quality class III and IV big water boulder garden style rapids.
although everyone eventually made it to the river left eddy below the drop happy and no worse for wear. This is a spectacular place, with the crystal clear water of
the Illinois contrasting with the dark rock of the hundred foot high river right wall and the shoreline vegetation leafing out in greens of every shade. River left here is
a huge pile of house sized boulders that make great viewing platforms and good places for setting safety and taking pictures. Below The Green Wall is a fun class III
before the Illinois squeezes through a narrow canyon and heads off into five miles of high quality class III and IV big water boulder garden style rapids.