McKenzie Pass, Oregon
Location - McKenzie Bridge, OR
Length - 50 miles
Date - 5/28/2007











The McKenzie Pass scenic byway is one of the oldest routes across
the Cascade Range and it once played a vital connection between the
high desert of eastern Oregon and the lush Willamette Valley. Each
year the road closes for the winter due to some of the heaviest
snowfall in the country. Some years the road closes by early October
and while it is often opening up by mid June the latest the closure has
lasted is until the end of July. Luckily for bikers, the twisting mountain
route is often clear enough for bike and foot traffic before motorized
vehicles are allowed on the road.
This year McKenzie Pass opened to foot and bike traffic on May 20th
and great weather on Memorial Day weekend brought us out to pedal
the pass before it was opened to cars. Michelle and I began our ride
at the McKenzie Bridge Ranger station at an elevation of 1,400 feet
and rode the eleven miles to the west side snow gate at Alder Springs
Campground. The first stretch of road climbs steadily, but never
steeply through a forest of large evergreens with many wildflowers
lining the smooth two lane road. A few glimpses of the snow covered
Three Sisters and other nearby peaks made this part of the ride most
enjoyable. The day was warming up nicely and we were able to ride in
short sleeved jerseys.
From two miles before the snow gate to four miles above it, the road
steepens and climbs a stretch known as Deadhorse Grade. Many 180
degree hairpin turns allow the road to snake up the mountainside and
while the climb is not a walk in the park, the grades are never out of
control. The first patches of snow we encountered were located at
about 4,000 feet and soon drifts became much more common. While
the road was closed to vehicles, the pavement was surprisingly clean,
with only scattered patches of pine needles, pine cones, and gravel.
We rode slowly in low gears and stopped a few times to take pictures.
Before we knew it the locally infamous climb was behind us and we
reached a mellow stretch that ran for a few miles between two to three
foot snowbanks. A little fast high gear peddling was appreciated, but
soon the grade kicked up again and we geared down to spin out the
last miles to the top of the pass.
At this point glimpses of the big glaciated volcanoes became more
numerous and gorgeous meadows were passed. We rode with a
group of other bikers for a while before stopping at the first lava flow
and open view of the peaks. The whole top of McKenzie Pass is
covered with heaps of sharp lava rock from an ancient eruption of
Belknap Crater, a smaller cone just north of the road. The result of
these eruptions is the largest lava flow in the continental United States
and a lunar landscape of harsh looking rock with jagged snow covered
peaks jutting from the barren scene. The lack of trees through this
section allowed us to take in the warm sun and gentle breezes
prevented us from cooling off too much.
Soon the last uphill pitch was passed and we reached the top of
McKenzie Pass, which sits at over 5,300 feet. We had climbed roughly
4,000 feet in twenty five miles and it felt good to take off our shoes
and relax in the sun while taking in some of the most dramatic scenery
in Oregon. At the top of the pass there were a fair number of bikers
taking advantage of the traffic free road. Almost everyone took time to
explore the Dee Wright Observatory, a lookout created from lava rock
that is full of portholes showing different mountain. The view included
the North and Middle Sister, Mt Washington, Mt Jefferson, Mt Hood,
and a host of lesser summits. The weather could not have been
better and we relaxed for almost an hour before deciding to get back
on the bikes. From here we could have descended a few thousand
feet to Sisters, Oregon and completed an 84 mile loop back to the car
that would have included another haul over Santiam Pass, but we
decided to drop back down the way we had come to avoid the
Memorial Day traffic an Route 20 and the torture of such a tough ride.
After tightening brakes and checking cables we began our twenty five
miles of downhill. Michelle and I were able to cruise the upper sections,
but it was important to stay in control since the road was dirty in a few
places. Crashing off of this narrow mountain road could toss you off of a
big drop so we figured it was best to play it safe. The steepest six miles
saw us on our front and back brakes quite bit, but we negotiated the
steep switchbacks under control and neither of us had trouble with the
few dirty spots. Luckily we spotted mile post 66 and stopped well short of
the steel snow gate blocking the road just below.
Once past the gate two more steep miles kept us on the brakes, but soon
the grade eased up and we let the wheels spin. Cruising out the last 9
miles of road was a phenomenal way to end a great ride. I am eager to
get back here again and try the complete circuit that leads over both
McKenzie Pass and Santiam Pass. With a lunch stop in Sisters, Oregon
this ride would not be too difficult. Although the climb was not as bad as
we had anticipated, the Deadhorse Grade is considerable and most
people riding the pass should be ready to deal with a little grinding.
Michelle checking out the sign at the bottom of our ride to the top of McKenzie Pass.
Even from the lower sections of the road it is possible to see the big
volcanoes rising above the trees.
This stretch of road is typical of the climb up Deadhorse Grade, which ascends
roughly 2,000 feet in about six miles.
Once above 4,000 feet snow became common along the sides of the sides of the
road.
This stretch of road is typical of the climb up Deadhorse Grade, which ascends
roughly 2,000 feet in about six miles.
Road crews has cleared one lane of the road for bikers and it sure is a good thing
since this four foot pack is typically of what was laying in the woods.
The first lava flow that the road passes through is a sign that the top of the pass is
drawing closer. The treeless terrain here means plenty of sun, hence the lack of
snow.
Michelle resting on her bike with the North and Middle Sister rising above the lava
flows in the background.
Brad and Michelle at the top of McKenzie Pass which sits at over 5,300 feet. Great
views and amazing weather helped make this spectacular ride even more
rewarding.
Michelle standing at the top of the pass in front of a huge lava field while getting
ready for the twenty five mile descent back to our truck.
Brad stopping to rest his brakes and arms about half way down the steepest
section of the descent.
Michelle is enjoying the very fast lower reached of the McKenzie Highway.