| STAGE THREE - LAKE MINTO AND THE LEAF RIVER |
The paddle across Lake Minto and the flatwater sections of the Leaf River
lasted for seven days. Our team was fortunate to have encountered clear
skies and relatively calm warm weather. For the entire week we were never
windbound, and many hikes provided fantastic views of the surrounding
countryside.
Minto’s numerous arms and bays allowed us to always stay close to shore and
avoid the huge middle sections of the lake. By staying close to shore we were
treated to many amazing sights. Numerous ancient native campsites were
found, caribous bones and antlers littered the ground, a wolf den was
discovered, and a brilliant wildflower display was in constant view.
The day that we encountered the wolves was particularly moving. There was
good paddling this morning around many interesting points with little to no
breeze. We went for a hike up a hill at 3:00 pm and were greeted with a view
of a two kilometer crossing that needed to be made. It was very windy up on
the hill and looked like the crossing would be exposed and difficult.
The crossing took about an hour and small to medium sized swells moved
directly into our canoe. Not long after the crossing we spotted a gorgeous
open campsite, but while approaching a group of wolf cubs were spotted on
shore. The little cubs were curious and shyly checking us out while we landed
the canoe to investigate. A quick survey of the area showed many wolf tracks
of all sizes, diggings, and the actually den, which contained at least two
openings. This was real cool, and the camping would have been
phenomenal, but intruding on the wolves would have been irresponsible and
potentially dangerous.
We paddled around a point and traveled for a kilometer before landing again
in searching of a flat place for the tent. The only suitable site required us to
walk about thirty or forty yards up away from the water, but this would have to
do. The sleeping tent was set up and staked out with rocks before setting up
the bug tent and settling in for the evening.
lasted for seven days. Our team was fortunate to have encountered clear
skies and relatively calm warm weather. For the entire week we were never
windbound, and many hikes provided fantastic views of the surrounding
countryside.
Minto’s numerous arms and bays allowed us to always stay close to shore and
avoid the huge middle sections of the lake. By staying close to shore we were
treated to many amazing sights. Numerous ancient native campsites were
found, caribous bones and antlers littered the ground, a wolf den was
discovered, and a brilliant wildflower display was in constant view.
The day that we encountered the wolves was particularly moving. There was
good paddling this morning around many interesting points with little to no
breeze. We went for a hike up a hill at 3:00 pm and were greeted with a view
of a two kilometer crossing that needed to be made. It was very windy up on
the hill and looked like the crossing would be exposed and difficult.
The crossing took about an hour and small to medium sized swells moved
directly into our canoe. Not long after the crossing we spotted a gorgeous
open campsite, but while approaching a group of wolf cubs were spotted on
shore. The little cubs were curious and shyly checking us out while we landed
the canoe to investigate. A quick survey of the area showed many wolf tracks
of all sizes, diggings, and the actually den, which contained at least two
openings. This was real cool, and the camping would have been
phenomenal, but intruding on the wolves would have been irresponsible and
potentially dangerous.
We paddled around a point and traveled for a kilometer before landing again
in searching of a flat place for the tent. The only suitable site required us to
walk about thirty or forty yards up away from the water, but this would have to
do. The sleeping tent was set up and staked out with rocks before setting up
the bug tent and settling in for the evening.
Constant traveling eventually carried us down Minto and into a part of the
lake labeled as the Leaf River. It is confusing that this northerly bay of the
lake has been labeled as a river because there is no perceptible current
and many side bays sprawl off of this. Regardless, the change in name on
the map gave us a sense of progress.
We hiked a real cool mountain at lunch time. This hill made up the point of
a peninsula and rose for several hundred feet on all sides in steeply sloping
cliffs and polished slabs of ledge. The view of the sparkling crystal clear
water below us was astounding.
The weather was great again with a sunny and calm blue bird skies. Just
before the hike we were in the middle of a two kilometer crossing when Eric
spotted a fish swimming near the surface. I quickly made a few casts and
caught the nice lake trout which was promptly released. We stopped again
at 3:30 for a fishing break and landed a few more lake trout. I kept one nice
fish for dinner. This was how the days were typically passed.
One day on the upper reaches of the Leaf we were making excellent
progress on particularly glassy flatwater. The day was so still and so quiet
that it was eerie. We paddled a roundabout route, fished and caught some
lake trout, and had a nice uneventful morning. All day long clouds could be
seen building up from heat rising off the land. A few of these clouds
became saturated enough to generate showers, but there seemed to be no
thunderstorms yet. The fast paddling allowed us to have a leisurely lunch
at an old native campsite with the usual tent rings and perfect gravel beach.
Although the next few days would bring unstable weather, the winds never
became strong enough to prevent paddling. By the time we reached the
outlet rapids at the head of the actual Leaf River Eric and I were happy for
the change of pace and eager to have a helping current.
lake labeled as the Leaf River. It is confusing that this northerly bay of the
lake has been labeled as a river because there is no perceptible current
and many side bays sprawl off of this. Regardless, the change in name on
the map gave us a sense of progress.
We hiked a real cool mountain at lunch time. This hill made up the point of
a peninsula and rose for several hundred feet on all sides in steeply sloping
cliffs and polished slabs of ledge. The view of the sparkling crystal clear
water below us was astounding.
The weather was great again with a sunny and calm blue bird skies. Just
before the hike we were in the middle of a two kilometer crossing when Eric
spotted a fish swimming near the surface. I quickly made a few casts and
caught the nice lake trout which was promptly released. We stopped again
at 3:30 for a fishing break and landed a few more lake trout. I kept one nice
fish for dinner. This was how the days were typically passed.
One day on the upper reaches of the Leaf we were making excellent
progress on particularly glassy flatwater. The day was so still and so quiet
that it was eerie. We paddled a roundabout route, fished and caught some
lake trout, and had a nice uneventful morning. All day long clouds could be
seen building up from heat rising off the land. A few of these clouds
became saturated enough to generate showers, but there seemed to be no
thunderstorms yet. The fast paddling allowed us to have a leisurely lunch
at an old native campsite with the usual tent rings and perfect gravel beach.
Although the next few days would bring unstable weather, the winds never
became strong enough to prevent paddling. By the time we reached the
outlet rapids at the head of the actual Leaf River Eric and I were happy for
the change of pace and eager to have a helping current.
On the day the flatwater ended we were up and out of the tent after a quick spat of rain and paddling by nine thirty under improving weather
conditions. A huge tailwind was kicking up big swells that literally pushed us effortlessly for many miles. The going was so excellent and easy that
we only stopped once in the morning to stretch and fish. By lunchtime we had reached the outlet rapids of Lake Minto, but decided to scout and
run them before eating. The rapid came in two parts, the first being a wide and easy class II. The second part of the rapid was much trickier. The
river probably dropped about ten feet in a long bend with most of the current pushing to the right and creating a heavy class III wave train with a
few holes thrown in for good measure. We originally beached our boat in some shallows on river left to scout things, but from this vantage point
our view was distorted by the long section of shoals in front of us. We were forced to get back into the canoe and ferry across to river right in
order to make a more thorough scout. Being hasty this far from civilization could have dire consequences, so every precaution was taken.
The scout required that we balance on shoreline boulders and head up onto the low alder covered bank to make progress downstream. The
whole rapid was probably three hundred meters long and I was able to pick a good line near the river right shore that avoided the largest waves.
While Eric set up his video camera I went upstream to lash the Northwater spray deck onto our boat. This was a significant drop and swamping
near the top would probably result in dumping us into the icy water.
Our run was right on line and pretty smooth with the spray deck preventing us from taking on a lot of water. It would have been pretty intimidating
to run this rapid without the help of the cover and having the added safety of a guaranteed dry line was much appreciated. Even with the cover, I
had to grab a cooking pot and bail out some water that had found its way in.
conditions. A huge tailwind was kicking up big swells that literally pushed us effortlessly for many miles. The going was so excellent and easy that
we only stopped once in the morning to stretch and fish. By lunchtime we had reached the outlet rapids of Lake Minto, but decided to scout and
run them before eating. The rapid came in two parts, the first being a wide and easy class II. The second part of the rapid was much trickier. The
river probably dropped about ten feet in a long bend with most of the current pushing to the right and creating a heavy class III wave train with a
few holes thrown in for good measure. We originally beached our boat in some shallows on river left to scout things, but from this vantage point
our view was distorted by the long section of shoals in front of us. We were forced to get back into the canoe and ferry across to river right in
order to make a more thorough scout. Being hasty this far from civilization could have dire consequences, so every precaution was taken.
The scout required that we balance on shoreline boulders and head up onto the low alder covered bank to make progress downstream. The
whole rapid was probably three hundred meters long and I was able to pick a good line near the river right shore that avoided the largest waves.
While Eric set up his video camera I went upstream to lash the Northwater spray deck onto our boat. This was a significant drop and swamping
near the top would probably result in dumping us into the icy water.
Our run was right on line and pretty smooth with the spray deck preventing us from taking on a lot of water. It would have been pretty intimidating
to run this rapid without the help of the cover and having the added safety of a guaranteed dry line was much appreciated. Even with the cover, I
had to grab a cooking pot and bail out some water that had found its way in.
The Leaf River turned out to be a ramp of fast quickwater running over a cobble bottom. At times we were traveling at seven miles an hour without
paddling. The speed was exhilarating and it was remarkable to cover in an hour, a distance that took at least two days to travel while working
upstream at the beginning of the trip. For the next couple of days we dealt with strong squalls that brought cold rain and stiff winds. Happily the
squalls would pass through quickly and when it wasn’t actively raining the weather was quite fair despite the unrelenting north wind.
The fishing and camping on the Leaf was phenomenal and I hooked many trout and even a small Atlantic Salmon that managed to shake itself free.
Although it would have been great to relax and enjoy this amazing river for longer, we moved along at a steady pace. A great deal of work lay
ahead. Soon we would be fighting the current again while working our way up the Vizien River while making our way towards the height of land
between the Leaf and Payne River watersheds.
Late in the afternoon on our final day of running the Leaf River we ran a pretty big class II – III rapid and almost paddled over a ledge that could have
easily flipped our canoe. It was nice to have avoided the drop, but we managed to take on a lot of water in the process and had to stop to bail out
before continuing. Again, the cooking pot proved to be helpful with this. Shortly after this rapid the Leaf smoothed out, but a strong tailwind blew us
down this section to the mouth of the Vizien on river left. We made an unceremonious turn up the Vizien at 4:45 and were happy to find a somewhat
large stream carrying plenty of water to float our boat.
paddling. The speed was exhilarating and it was remarkable to cover in an hour, a distance that took at least two days to travel while working
upstream at the beginning of the trip. For the next couple of days we dealt with strong squalls that brought cold rain and stiff winds. Happily the
squalls would pass through quickly and when it wasn’t actively raining the weather was quite fair despite the unrelenting north wind.
The fishing and camping on the Leaf was phenomenal and I hooked many trout and even a small Atlantic Salmon that managed to shake itself free.
Although it would have been great to relax and enjoy this amazing river for longer, we moved along at a steady pace. A great deal of work lay
ahead. Soon we would be fighting the current again while working our way up the Vizien River while making our way towards the height of land
between the Leaf and Payne River watersheds.
Late in the afternoon on our final day of running the Leaf River we ran a pretty big class II – III rapid and almost paddled over a ledge that could have
easily flipped our canoe. It was nice to have avoided the drop, but we managed to take on a lot of water in the process and had to stop to bail out
before continuing. Again, the cooking pot proved to be helpful with this. Shortly after this rapid the Leaf smoothed out, but a strong tailwind blew us
down this section to the mouth of the Vizien on river left. We made an unceremonious turn up the Vizien at 4:45 and were happy to find a somewhat
large stream carrying plenty of water to float our boat.
Although Lake Minto is nearly one hundred miles long, it is broken into many arms
surrounded by hills that give wide open views.
surrounded by hills that give wide open views.
Eric setting up another picture perfect campsite on the eastern side of Lake Minto.
Perfect glass on Lake Minto. The expedition was very lucky to have such amazing weather while on this large lake.
The glaciers have left behind some surreal rock formations in Ungava. Don't worry, this precariously placed boulder was not going to move
anytime soon.
anytime soon.
For miles the shores of Minto are decorated by a scattering of rocks deposited by the melting of the last ice sheet. The treeless landscape leaves
all of these wonders in plain view.
all of these wonders in plain view.
In places large cliffs plummeted directly into the crystal clear and frigid waters of Lake
Minto.
Minto.
A long stretch of fast class I and II rapids were run on the Leaf River.
More very fast water on the Leaf River. After working for weeks to make miles while heading upstream and on flatwater it was a pleasure to cruise along
effortlessly on the Leaf.
effortlessly on the Leaf.
A nice dinner was had and pudding was stirred up for dessert. As I went to put away the dishes we heard some wolves howling. The yelping of the pups
was soon drowned about by the deeper piercing howl of an adultwolf. When I stepped out of the bug tent to wash the dishes I spotted the mother wolf a
hundred yards behind our tent up on a low ridge. She started howling and pranced around on the ridge for an hour or more. The howls were interspersed
with lower barking noises meant to intimidate and warn us that she was in charge of her cubs. Although the wolf was making a pretty good show of force
she never came too close that evening. All the time this was happening another amazing sunset was taking place while swarms of flies and mosquitoes
made constant attacks.
Once in the tent now things were no less exciting. The wolf came by again, howling and barking much closer this time. I was a little intimidated and
nervous, but it was probably worse for the frightened wolves. The shotgun was in the tent next to me just in case. Although we were never woken by the
wolf that night, the next morning while we were eating breakfast the large female silently crept to within twenty yards of us before I sensed something and
stood up. Once I stood the wolf became wary and trotted away, stopping to look back from time to time. Eric and I were deeply moved by the encounter.
The experience that we had on Lake Minto was truly unreal. Despite being a whitewater addict, I absolutely enjoyed the clam and peaceful days of
paddling that were had out on the big blue of Minto. The fishing was phenomenal and the area had an incredible sense of place.
was soon drowned about by the deeper piercing howl of an adultwolf. When I stepped out of the bug tent to wash the dishes I spotted the mother wolf a
hundred yards behind our tent up on a low ridge. She started howling and pranced around on the ridge for an hour or more. The howls were interspersed
with lower barking noises meant to intimidate and warn us that she was in charge of her cubs. Although the wolf was making a pretty good show of force
she never came too close that evening. All the time this was happening another amazing sunset was taking place while swarms of flies and mosquitoes
made constant attacks.
Once in the tent now things were no less exciting. The wolf came by again, howling and barking much closer this time. I was a little intimidated and
nervous, but it was probably worse for the frightened wolves. The shotgun was in the tent next to me just in case. Although we were never woken by the
wolf that night, the next morning while we were eating breakfast the large female silently crept to within twenty yards of us before I sensed something and
stood up. Once I stood the wolf became wary and trotted away, stopping to look back from time to time. Eric and I were deeply moved by the encounter.
The experience that we had on Lake Minto was truly unreal. Despite being a whitewater addict, I absolutely enjoyed the clam and peaceful days of
paddling that were had out on the big blue of Minto. The fishing was phenomenal and the area had an incredible sense of place.
