| STAGE FOUR - ASCENDING RIVIERE VIZIEN |
I was totally pumped up to explore the Vizien River. We certainly saw some cool stuff in this most remote part of Ungava. On that first day it was very windy and
cold outside, but our tent always provided welcome shelter each night. With only a few exceptions it was a chilly summer. I think we were most likely the first
people to canoe between the Leaf and Payne Rivers by this route in modern times.
On our second day of the ascent when we weren’t lining we were dealing with the significant rapids encountered in the eight kilometers covered that day. It was
actually possible to line the canoe right up some of these drops, but the steeper rapids forced us to portage along the loose and slippery boulders. The Vizien
looked like it would be a blast to paddle down, but I was just as happy to see it this way. If anything, the slower pace allowed us to take in more of its details and
wonders. It was even possible to paddle upstream in a few places during our ascent.
The surrounding landscape was very pretty in this section. Barren hills surrounded the river, but trees hugged the low points of the valley. These trees
represented one of the farthest north vestiges of forest in Ungava. The luxury of dry wood was not missed and we used it to kindle several fires in an attempt to
dry out our wet gear. In a few days travel the trees were gone for good and we entered the true tundra. Even though the treeless expanses of Ungava are called
the barren lands, they are really anything but. Low ground cover and many flowers adorn the landscape and provided us with constant entertainment.
cold outside, but our tent always provided welcome shelter each night. With only a few exceptions it was a chilly summer. I think we were most likely the first
people to canoe between the Leaf and Payne Rivers by this route in modern times.
On our second day of the ascent when we weren’t lining we were dealing with the significant rapids encountered in the eight kilometers covered that day. It was
actually possible to line the canoe right up some of these drops, but the steeper rapids forced us to portage along the loose and slippery boulders. The Vizien
looked like it would be a blast to paddle down, but I was just as happy to see it this way. If anything, the slower pace allowed us to take in more of its details and
wonders. It was even possible to paddle upstream in a few places during our ascent.
The surrounding landscape was very pretty in this section. Barren hills surrounded the river, but trees hugged the low points of the valley. These trees
represented one of the farthest north vestiges of forest in Ungava. The luxury of dry wood was not missed and we used it to kindle several fires in an attempt to
dry out our wet gear. In a few days travel the trees were gone for good and we entered the true tundra. Even though the treeless expanses of Ungava are called
the barren lands, they are really anything but. Low ground cover and many flowers adorn the landscape and provided us with constant entertainment.
On the third day of the ascent we were able to steadily line upstream all day. Squally weather persisted, but it was often interspersed with periods of sunny blue
sky. Even with the periodic sun I wore a windbreaker and lifejacket all day to stay warm. Having continuously wet feet is probably the worse part of upstream
travel. No matter how hard you try to not step over your boots it is almost inevitable. Although cold, the squally weather managed to keep all of the bugs for some
time. Some of these gales produced enough wind to make paddling impossible. There were several stretches of flatwater where it would have been possible to
paddle had it not been for these gales blowing through with such incredible force.
Eventually we reached a set of rapids that came at the junction of a tributary entering from the north. Initially the entrance of this tributary was confusing. There
was a considerable section of rapids not marked on the map that had us misplacing ourselves by a kilometer or two. Luckily the problem was easy enough to
correct once we located a sharp bend in the Vizien. The maps can be a little misleading because sometimes rapids are marked and sometimes they are not. After
the sharp bend the river was particularly wide which caused the water to spread out and become to shallow and steep for lining. This forced a portage that was
made easier by open overflow channels leading down on river right.
We lined up a few shallow rapids that evening and saw several rainbows. One of these rainbows seemed to end exactly below where we were standing. Another
bug free day was much appreciated and a good deal of time was spent fishing and catching numerous brook trout and lake trout. It was easy to get used to not
being bothered by the biting menace, but we knew that it would be time to pay for this soon enough.
sky. Even with the periodic sun I wore a windbreaker and lifejacket all day to stay warm. Having continuously wet feet is probably the worse part of upstream
travel. No matter how hard you try to not step over your boots it is almost inevitable. Although cold, the squally weather managed to keep all of the bugs for some
time. Some of these gales produced enough wind to make paddling impossible. There were several stretches of flatwater where it would have been possible to
paddle had it not been for these gales blowing through with such incredible force.
Eventually we reached a set of rapids that came at the junction of a tributary entering from the north. Initially the entrance of this tributary was confusing. There
was a considerable section of rapids not marked on the map that had us misplacing ourselves by a kilometer or two. Luckily the problem was easy enough to
correct once we located a sharp bend in the Vizien. The maps can be a little misleading because sometimes rapids are marked and sometimes they are not. After
the sharp bend the river was particularly wide which caused the water to spread out and become to shallow and steep for lining. This forced a portage that was
made easier by open overflow channels leading down on river right.
We lined up a few shallow rapids that evening and saw several rainbows. One of these rainbows seemed to end exactly below where we were standing. Another
bug free day was much appreciated and a good deal of time was spent fishing and catching numerous brook trout and lake trout. It was easy to get used to not
being bothered by the biting menace, but we knew that it would be time to pay for this soon enough.
It was while heading up the Vizien that we encountered the only thunderstorm of the summer. On the morning of the storm we were portaging and lining
upstream when the skies grew darker and a light rain turned into a steadily increasing downpour. At some point I saw a quick flash out of the corner of my eye
and asked Eric if he thought that was lightning. The long and echoing roll of thunder coming across the land answered for him. The clouds looked ominous, but
it didn’t really seem like thunderstorm weather. The benign looking clouds made the second lightning bolt and booming rumble of thunder seem even more our
of place. Since the barren surroundings were very exposed we decided to drag up the canoe and sit it out for a while. It poured for about fifteen minutes, and
only one more distant flash of lightning was spotted. The only scary thing was that the weather gave no real indication of there being electricity in the air. Luckily
the storm quickly passed and we were soon on our way. A bad electrical storm out here in the tundra would be a frightening and potentially dangerous situation.
upstream when the skies grew darker and a light rain turned into a steadily increasing downpour. At some point I saw a quick flash out of the corner of my eye
and asked Eric if he thought that was lightning. The long and echoing roll of thunder coming across the land answered for him. The clouds looked ominous, but
it didn’t really seem like thunderstorm weather. The benign looking clouds made the second lightning bolt and booming rumble of thunder seem even more our
of place. Since the barren surroundings were very exposed we decided to drag up the canoe and sit it out for a while. It poured for about fifteen minutes, and
only one more distant flash of lightning was spotted. The only scary thing was that the weather gave no real indication of there being electricity in the air. Luckily
the storm quickly passed and we were soon on our way. A bad electrical storm out here in the tundra would be a frightening and potentially dangerous situation.
After climbing the Vizien we paddled through Lac Maguire and eventually reached the stream that had to be followed up and out of this lake. This stream
needed to be followed for a kilometer and a half to the next lake on our route. From the looks of the maps it should have been possible to drag up this part
of the river, but that was simply not the case. Either things had changed since the maps were created, or the charts are not accurate. The problem seemed
to be that either the water levels had dropped over the last fifty years, or it was a particularly dry summer and water levels were low. The other problem was
that the stream did not follow one defined channel here. The terrain was so uniformly flat and broken that the water from the lake above came down all
spread out in multiple channels among a jumble of boulders and even through the bushes. This meant that there was no main channel that carried all of the
water. What appeared to be the stream bed was little more than a boulder strewn creek much to shallow for the canoe. Everywhere we walked water was
flowing just under the rocks. The whole lake above seemed to be draining down this way, but it did so underground. Perhaps global warming and climate
change is drying up the rivers of Ungava.
The portage was a nightmare. Walking across the boulder jumble was dangerous, especially since many of the rocks were loose and others were hidden by
bushes. In some places the alders were tall enough to obscure our surrounding views and thick enough to make walking through them nearly impossible.
We did scare up some ptarmigan with their cute little babies and this provided some entertainment. Walking was made even worse when we had to cross
little parts of the stream. The boulders comprising the bottom of these streambeds were coated with slippery slime. Walking through this terrain with a
hundred pounds balanced on your shoulders was excruciatingly slow.
After one trip we realized it was six thirty and there were no good camp sites in the immediate area. Some higher ground was spotted to the southwest about
one hundred meters away and we slowly set out for this. In crossing one small slippery channel I stmbled countless times and had to use a paddle and the
stock of the shotgun for balance. In retrospect, it probably would have been better to find another longer but more friendly route. However, the canoe had
already been unloaded and one trip made. Luckily, the high ground we had spotted made an acceptable campsite and provided an easy second half to the
portage in the morning. The third trip of the portage was the worse. Eric and I battled bushes and fell into the water, but all of the gear made it to the
campsite. The rest of the portage was completed the following morning and by the time the canoe was floating on deep water again we were quite happy.
needed to be followed for a kilometer and a half to the next lake on our route. From the looks of the maps it should have been possible to drag up this part
of the river, but that was simply not the case. Either things had changed since the maps were created, or the charts are not accurate. The problem seemed
to be that either the water levels had dropped over the last fifty years, or it was a particularly dry summer and water levels were low. The other problem was
that the stream did not follow one defined channel here. The terrain was so uniformly flat and broken that the water from the lake above came down all
spread out in multiple channels among a jumble of boulders and even through the bushes. This meant that there was no main channel that carried all of the
water. What appeared to be the stream bed was little more than a boulder strewn creek much to shallow for the canoe. Everywhere we walked water was
flowing just under the rocks. The whole lake above seemed to be draining down this way, but it did so underground. Perhaps global warming and climate
change is drying up the rivers of Ungava.
The portage was a nightmare. Walking across the boulder jumble was dangerous, especially since many of the rocks were loose and others were hidden by
bushes. In some places the alders were tall enough to obscure our surrounding views and thick enough to make walking through them nearly impossible.
We did scare up some ptarmigan with their cute little babies and this provided some entertainment. Walking was made even worse when we had to cross
little parts of the stream. The boulders comprising the bottom of these streambeds were coated with slippery slime. Walking through this terrain with a
hundred pounds balanced on your shoulders was excruciatingly slow.
After one trip we realized it was six thirty and there were no good camp sites in the immediate area. Some higher ground was spotted to the southwest about
one hundred meters away and we slowly set out for this. In crossing one small slippery channel I stmbled countless times and had to use a paddle and the
stock of the shotgun for balance. In retrospect, it probably would have been better to find another longer but more friendly route. However, the canoe had
already been unloaded and one trip made. Luckily, the high ground we had spotted made an acceptable campsite and provided an easy second half to the
portage in the morning. The third trip of the portage was the worse. Eric and I battled bushes and fell into the water, but all of the gear made it to the
campsite. The rest of the portage was completed the following morning and by the time the canoe was floating on deep water again we were quite happy.
Several days later we reached a part of the trip that seemed as
though it would be pleasant pond hopping with short paddles and
many short portages. What we actually found was quite different. A
series of dry creeks and nearly empty lakes greeted us. A short one
kilometer paddle brought us to the portage leading from our lake to
the first of a series of three ponds we hoped to be hopping through.
These ponds are shown to be connected by a single line stream on
the 1:50,000 scale maps, but we had no hope that they would be
carrying enough water for lining the canoe. The 500 meter carry was
over good ground with good footing. The lake we reached was only
500 meters long and its level looked much lower than it should have
been. A high line of boulders surrounding it showed that its level was
once many feet higher.
The next portage was supposed to be an easy 200 meters to
another small pond, but this next body of water was almost entirely
dry. Instead of a lake there was a big patch of boulders. This meant
that we had to portage for a straight kilometer and a half past the
next lake, which was also dry. The easiest walking was along a
shallow creek that brought us to a much bigger body of water that
had enough water for paddling. All of the ground here was a jumble
of boulder ranging from microwave to car size. This made for slow
going, but we finished in two trips by 12:45. At one point I stepped
on a truck sized rock and heard it shift underneath me. This was
pretty scary and it is lucky that no one was hurt in the rock piles of
this portage. A shoulder strap on the lunch barrel also ripped and
nearly broke off early in the day, but a field repair made the pack
serviceable.
though it would be pleasant pond hopping with short paddles and
many short portages. What we actually found was quite different. A
series of dry creeks and nearly empty lakes greeted us. A short one
kilometer paddle brought us to the portage leading from our lake to
the first of a series of three ponds we hoped to be hopping through.
These ponds are shown to be connected by a single line stream on
the 1:50,000 scale maps, but we had no hope that they would be
carrying enough water for lining the canoe. The 500 meter carry was
over good ground with good footing. The lake we reached was only
500 meters long and its level looked much lower than it should have
been. A high line of boulders surrounding it showed that its level was
once many feet higher.
The next portage was supposed to be an easy 200 meters to
another small pond, but this next body of water was almost entirely
dry. Instead of a lake there was a big patch of boulders. This meant
that we had to portage for a straight kilometer and a half past the
next lake, which was also dry. The easiest walking was along a
shallow creek that brought us to a much bigger body of water that
had enough water for paddling. All of the ground here was a jumble
of boulder ranging from microwave to car size. This made for slow
going, but we finished in two trips by 12:45. At one point I stepped
on a truck sized rock and heard it shift underneath me. This was
pretty scary and it is lucky that no one was hurt in the rock piles of
this portage. A shoulder strap on the lunch barrel also ripped and
nearly broke off early in the day, but a field repair made the pack
serviceable.
A good restful lunch was eaten at the top of the carry. The low waters were a little frustrating, but it was encouraging to have completed this section of the route
by lunch. A quick check of the maps indicated that several more smaller ponds had to be navigated before reaching the much larger Lake Dune. There were
still many small narrow channels on Lake Dune and many marked rocks, but we figured that since it was such a big lake it would be passable. Our fingers were
certainly crossed.
After eating Eric and I paddled a few hundred meters to a channel that was just a trickle. We were able to drag the canoe through to open water and little time as
wasted here. Another half kilometer of paddling brought us to two sections of rapids that we lined up. These emptied from a larger lake that we were able to
paddle across. On the far end of this lake a short 200 meter carry ended at Lake Dune. The day had clouded up by this time and low dark clouds hung around,
but they were patchy and puffy in shape. The wind however, had not abated.
Since Lake Dune looked to be plenty deep for canoeing, we paddled four kilometers into the hard headwind. Near the end of this stretch we rounded a point and
I spotted a wolf up on shore. This animal was very lean looking. He checked us out and came to the waters edge. We paddled very close until he became
scared and trotted away. This was really cool! In a few minutes it was too windy to paddle so we put to shore and cooked dinner while waiting for calmer
weather. It was six when we landed and the daily trends were for the wind to calm by seven or eight.
by lunch. A quick check of the maps indicated that several more smaller ponds had to be navigated before reaching the much larger Lake Dune. There were
still many small narrow channels on Lake Dune and many marked rocks, but we figured that since it was such a big lake it would be passable. Our fingers were
certainly crossed.
After eating Eric and I paddled a few hundred meters to a channel that was just a trickle. We were able to drag the canoe through to open water and little time as
wasted here. Another half kilometer of paddling brought us to two sections of rapids that we lined up. These emptied from a larger lake that we were able to
paddle across. On the far end of this lake a short 200 meter carry ended at Lake Dune. The day had clouded up by this time and low dark clouds hung around,
but they were patchy and puffy in shape. The wind however, had not abated.
Since Lake Dune looked to be plenty deep for canoeing, we paddled four kilometers into the hard headwind. Near the end of this stretch we rounded a point and
I spotted a wolf up on shore. This animal was very lean looking. He checked us out and came to the waters edge. We paddled very close until he became
scared and trotted away. This was really cool! In a few minutes it was too windy to paddle so we put to shore and cooked dinner while waiting for calmer
weather. It was six when we landed and the daily trends were for the wind to calm by seven or eight.
After eating several hours of twilight paddling carried us to a finger like bay extending north towards a pass that would lead to
Lake Bisson, which drains north into the Payne River watershed. On landing we used the remaining day light and hiked to the
top of the pass. The view revealed a big body of deep water in the distance and the portage route looked easy. We couldn’t
have been more happy. After tomorrow morning’s carry it would be all downhill to Kangirsuk. On the walk back to the tent I
noticed very fresh caribou trails and tufts of fur on the ground. Perhaps we would even see some caribou in the area.
Lake Bisson, which drains north into the Payne River watershed. On landing we used the remaining day light and hiked to the
top of the pass. The view revealed a big body of deep water in the distance and the portage route looked easy. We couldn’t
have been more happy. After tomorrow morning’s carry it would be all downhill to Kangirsuk. On the walk back to the tent I
noticed very fresh caribou trails and tufts of fur on the ground. Perhaps we would even see some caribou in the area.
Eric Nemitz tracking the 18 foot Nova Craft Prospector up the Vizien River. It was nice to
see that the Vizien contained enough water to get along in this fashion while heading
upstream.
see that the Vizien contained enough water to get along in this fashion while heading
upstream.
When the rapids became to intense to line the canoe up we took to the bush and
portaged our gear. It took several trips to bring all of our equipment across any given
portage.
portaged our gear. It took several trips to bring all of our equipment across any given
portage.
Brad Bassi taking advantage of some rare wood in Ungava to build a fire. Drying out our
socks was a treat not to be missed.
socks was a treat not to be missed.
It required both of to bring the loaded canoe up rapids like this. We often dealt with
treacherous riverside footing while lining. Despite slow going, the process was still less
painful than portaging.
treacherous riverside footing while lining. Despite slow going, the process was still less
painful than portaging.
Brad hunkering down while an unexpected thunderstorm rolls through the barren landscape.
Eric setting off on a portage at the point where the river we were ascending petered out
and dried up. This carry was particularly rough and required wading through knee deep
water over loose rock.
and dried up. This carry was particularly rough and required wading through knee deep
water over loose rock.
Brad completing the same portage the next morning. Notice that water is not visible
anywhere in this picture!
anywhere in this picture!
Carrying the eighteen foot canoe in a stiff breeze made for the frequent use of many choice words.
A typical load weighing upwards of eighty pounds. If you look closely it is possible to see a stretch of
dried up river draining this lake. Low water forced many portages as we approached the height of
land.
dried up river draining this lake. Low water forced many portages as we approached the height of
land.
As the team approached the height of land between the Leaf and Payne watersheds the terrain became entirely barren and many portages were
made.
made.
A blurred but nice picture of the hungry looking wolf that approached us as we paddled by on Lake
Dune.
Dune.
Our work up the Vizien River to the height of land was interesting and involved.
The lower reaches of the river were deep and fast and our canoe was lined for
much of this distance despite the rapids and ledges. Overall, we made much
better progress in the early parts of this stage than we had anticipated. The
difficulties began once we moved into the highest parts of the drainage and
made our way towards the height of land. Water levels were low and many
places marked as streams and ponds on the map were dry rocky fields that
made for long and difficult portaging. After much work and struggling with the
eighty plus pound loads we reached the height of land between the Leaf and
Payne River watersheds. At this point our upstream work was completed for
the rest of the trip. Below is an account of the ascent that has been adapted
from my journal. The selected pieces have been modified and they should give
an accurate idea of how we proceeded through this stretch of the expedition.
We made an unceremonious turn up the Vizien at 4:45 and were happy to find
a somewhat large stream flowing with plenty of water. If we had found a dry
riverbed the plan to reach the height of land between the Leaf and Payne
watersheds via this route would have had to have been abandoned. The only
surprise we had was the fair number of trees growing to reasonably good
heights. Seeing any trees in this part of Ungava is rare.
Our maps indicated some gravel bars about a half kilometer upstream and we
set out for those potentially good campsites. After paddling for a few hundred
meters we took out the lines and tracked upstream towards the likely site.
Tracking or lining involved both of us walking along shore or in the water and
pulling the loaded canoe upstream against the current. It’s often slow going,
but I believe it to be far superior to portaging in many situations. One person
takes the bow line and the other the stern. By letting out or taking in some of
the thirty foot lines you can control how the boat swings to avoid obstacles
while pulling upstream. This entire process can be done alone, but the pace is
much faster with two people coordinating their efforts and working together.
The lower reaches of the river were deep and fast and our canoe was lined for
much of this distance despite the rapids and ledges. Overall, we made much
better progress in the early parts of this stage than we had anticipated. The
difficulties began once we moved into the highest parts of the drainage and
made our way towards the height of land. Water levels were low and many
places marked as streams and ponds on the map were dry rocky fields that
made for long and difficult portaging. After much work and struggling with the
eighty plus pound loads we reached the height of land between the Leaf and
Payne River watersheds. At this point our upstream work was completed for
the rest of the trip. Below is an account of the ascent that has been adapted
from my journal. The selected pieces have been modified and they should give
an accurate idea of how we proceeded through this stretch of the expedition.
We made an unceremonious turn up the Vizien at 4:45 and were happy to find
a somewhat large stream flowing with plenty of water. If we had found a dry
riverbed the plan to reach the height of land between the Leaf and Payne
watersheds via this route would have had to have been abandoned. The only
surprise we had was the fair number of trees growing to reasonably good
heights. Seeing any trees in this part of Ungava is rare.
Our maps indicated some gravel bars about a half kilometer upstream and we
set out for those potentially good campsites. After paddling for a few hundred
meters we took out the lines and tracked upstream towards the likely site.
Tracking or lining involved both of us walking along shore or in the water and
pulling the loaded canoe upstream against the current. It’s often slow going,
but I believe it to be far superior to portaging in many situations. One person
takes the bow line and the other the stern. By letting out or taking in some of
the thirty foot lines you can control how the boat swings to avoid obstacles
while pulling upstream. This entire process can be done alone, but the pace is
much faster with two people coordinating their efforts and working together.
