| STAGE FIVE - PAYNE RIVER HEADWATERS |
Eric and I ate breakfast as some stragglers came through, then started our three quarters of a kilometer portage across the height of land between the Leaf and
Payne watershed. The carry was made in two trips. On the first trip I watched groups of caribou nervously sidestep me until I left the first heavy double load at the
top of a knoll. On the second trip a big group walked right through the pile of gear while trying to avoid me.
Northern Quebec is home to two of the most prolific caribou herds in the world. Although the massive herds of western North America seem to get all of the
attention, the George River Herd and the Leaf River Herd of northern Quebec both number over 700,000 individuals. The dynamics of these large ungulates has
mystified natives depending on them for food for thousands of years. More recently, scientists have been baffled by the size and health of the herds. For the
remainder of the trip we saw at least a few caribou each day.
Payne watershed. The carry was made in two trips. On the first trip I watched groups of caribou nervously sidestep me until I left the first heavy double load at the
top of a knoll. On the second trip a big group walked right through the pile of gear while trying to avoid me.
Northern Quebec is home to two of the most prolific caribou herds in the world. Although the massive herds of western North America seem to get all of the
attention, the George River Herd and the Leaf River Herd of northern Quebec both number over 700,000 individuals. The dynamics of these large ungulates has
mystified natives depending on them for food for thousands of years. More recently, scientists have been baffled by the size and health of the herds. For the
remainder of the trip we saw at least a few caribou each day.
At the end of the portage we were at the southern tip of a narrow bay that extended all the way down from the main body of Lac Bisson. This arm was two
kilometers long and never more than few hundred meters wide. A tailing crosswind pushed us up this arm as several more caribou watched from the surrounding
hills. From here to the end of the trip we would be in the company of caribous for some part of each day. Once we hit the main lake big three foot swells and a
ripping tailwind pushed us along. We made a five kilometer run in well under and hour with very little paddling. Had we been going the other way travel would not
have been possible.
At the end of this stretch was Lake Bisson’s outlet into the Payne River system. An easy 250 meter portage followed a shallow creek down to another lake. The
surroundings are completely barren now. There are no trees or bushed at all. A one kilometer paddle lead to a short 150 meter carry. We ate lunch here up on
a hill overlooking many fresh caribou trails trampled into mud. There was even enough wind to keep it a bug free meal.
At this point we had entered a narrow chain of lakes connected by narrows or short sections of streams that seemed to follow some sort of fault or straight line
through the landscape. Fifteen kilometers remained to where we wanted to camp for the night. Since the other small ponds and creeks we had just come up
were dry, this section made us a little nervous. However, all of the narrows were passable and the streams had just enough water to get down. This was
probably because of the local topography. The lakes were in a trench between steep hills which seemed to keep them very deep. We reached our first
downstream water in the form of some twenty to thirty foot wide shallow class II rapids. At times we had to more or less ram the canoe over rocks, but we stayed
in the boat and it was way easier and more fun than portaging. Spirits soared, and caribou were spotted sporadically throughout the day. Blue sky lay off to the
north while clouds persevered to the south. That night we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets either of us had witnessed in our combined years
of doing wilderness trips.
Although there were still plenty of uncertainties, we were delighted to have found that the small streams connecting the lakes in this region had enough water to
paddle. With any luck this trend would continue and allow us to reach Lac Tasialouc without much trouble.
kilometers long and never more than few hundred meters wide. A tailing crosswind pushed us up this arm as several more caribou watched from the surrounding
hills. From here to the end of the trip we would be in the company of caribous for some part of each day. Once we hit the main lake big three foot swells and a
ripping tailwind pushed us along. We made a five kilometer run in well under and hour with very little paddling. Had we been going the other way travel would not
have been possible.
At the end of this stretch was Lake Bisson’s outlet into the Payne River system. An easy 250 meter portage followed a shallow creek down to another lake. The
surroundings are completely barren now. There are no trees or bushed at all. A one kilometer paddle lead to a short 150 meter carry. We ate lunch here up on
a hill overlooking many fresh caribou trails trampled into mud. There was even enough wind to keep it a bug free meal.
At this point we had entered a narrow chain of lakes connected by narrows or short sections of streams that seemed to follow some sort of fault or straight line
through the landscape. Fifteen kilometers remained to where we wanted to camp for the night. Since the other small ponds and creeks we had just come up
were dry, this section made us a little nervous. However, all of the narrows were passable and the streams had just enough water to get down. This was
probably because of the local topography. The lakes were in a trench between steep hills which seemed to keep them very deep. We reached our first
downstream water in the form of some twenty to thirty foot wide shallow class II rapids. At times we had to more or less ram the canoe over rocks, but we stayed
in the boat and it was way easier and more fun than portaging. Spirits soared, and caribou were spotted sporadically throughout the day. Blue sky lay off to the
north while clouds persevered to the south. That night we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets either of us had witnessed in our combined years
of doing wilderness trips.
Although there were still plenty of uncertainties, we were delighted to have found that the small streams connecting the lakes in this region had enough water to
paddle. With any luck this trend would continue and allow us to reach Lac Tasialouc without much trouble.
Of course our hopes of higher water levels were dashed the very next day. In
the afternoon our route swung east and allowed us to ride a tailwind for
several kilometers to a section of marked rapids. Water levels were clearly
down and sneaking through some rocky barriers before the rapids was tricky.
The lake continued to narrow and the first pitch of the outlet rapids was barely
passable. Really we just about scraped down this first section. Another foot
of water would have made this a nice easy class II rapid.
After this first pitch the rapids become wider and the river made several
bends. As things spread out it became impossible to paddle any more. Again,
another foot or two of water would probably have made this whole section
passable. The low water did not seem as extreme on this side of the divide as
it had while coming up to the height of land. Perhaps now we were only
dealing with seasonal low water. To pass this section we had to drag the
canoe over many shallow, partially submerged rocks while stumbling around in
the water and balancing on the tips of slippery boulders to avoid falling into
waist deep water. There was lots of hopping in and out of the canoe through
here and it was east to loose patience and become frustrated. Even though
much gel paint was left on the rocks the ABS hull of this tough Nova Craft
canoe is undamaged.
Our next challenge was crossing the massive Lac Tasialouc. For ten kilometer
it was necessary to paddling with full exposure to all of the big open waters.
We could have hugged the shore, but the swells were breaking there and a
more direct off shore route allowed us to stay out of a headwind. The crossing
was broken into two sections by a long point sticking out from the southeast
shore of the lake.
The first half of the crossing proved to be the most exciting experience I have
ever had while paddling on a lake. Most of the swells were a solid four feet tall
and some were over five in height, reaching well over our heads. It was
insane to see how much the canoe pitched and rolled in those waves. Several
of these swells grew steep enough to break, and one even crashed over Eric’s
chest. Had it not been for the North Water spray deck we would have been
goners for sure. This was big and scary water. A dump out there would have
been serious and life threatening and the water was way too big for paddling
without the spraydeck. The huge dark waves combined with occasional wind
driven sideways rain made for some crazy moments. At one point we were
getting pushed into the point and had to paddle particularly hard to work our
way out and around the rocks. Luckily we were traveling perpendicular to the
swells and were able to get along with surprising speed. The fully loaded
canoe was surprisingly stable and I never felt like we were going to capsize.
the afternoon our route swung east and allowed us to ride a tailwind for
several kilometers to a section of marked rapids. Water levels were clearly
down and sneaking through some rocky barriers before the rapids was tricky.
The lake continued to narrow and the first pitch of the outlet rapids was barely
passable. Really we just about scraped down this first section. Another foot
of water would have made this a nice easy class II rapid.
After this first pitch the rapids become wider and the river made several
bends. As things spread out it became impossible to paddle any more. Again,
another foot or two of water would probably have made this whole section
passable. The low water did not seem as extreme on this side of the divide as
it had while coming up to the height of land. Perhaps now we were only
dealing with seasonal low water. To pass this section we had to drag the
canoe over many shallow, partially submerged rocks while stumbling around in
the water and balancing on the tips of slippery boulders to avoid falling into
waist deep water. There was lots of hopping in and out of the canoe through
here and it was east to loose patience and become frustrated. Even though
much gel paint was left on the rocks the ABS hull of this tough Nova Craft
canoe is undamaged.
Our next challenge was crossing the massive Lac Tasialouc. For ten kilometer
it was necessary to paddling with full exposure to all of the big open waters.
We could have hugged the shore, but the swells were breaking there and a
more direct off shore route allowed us to stay out of a headwind. The crossing
was broken into two sections by a long point sticking out from the southeast
shore of the lake.
The first half of the crossing proved to be the most exciting experience I have
ever had while paddling on a lake. Most of the swells were a solid four feet tall
and some were over five in height, reaching well over our heads. It was
insane to see how much the canoe pitched and rolled in those waves. Several
of these swells grew steep enough to break, and one even crashed over Eric’s
chest. Had it not been for the North Water spray deck we would have been
goners for sure. This was big and scary water. A dump out there would have
been serious and life threatening and the water was way too big for paddling
without the spraydeck. The huge dark waves combined with occasional wind
driven sideways rain made for some crazy moments. At one point we were
getting pushed into the point and had to paddle particularly hard to work our
way out and around the rocks. Luckily we were traveling perpendicular to the
swells and were able to get along with surprising speed. The fully loaded
canoe was surprisingly stable and I never felt like we were going to capsize.
The very next day saw some significant whitewater. Lunch was had at a nice
class II rapid. Fishing the eddy at the bottom produced lots lake trout in the
five to ten pound range. One of these fish shook when I was getting the hook
out of its mouth and knocked my Leatherman into the water between two
rocks. I could see it down there, but would have to shove my whole head
underwater to fish it out. Off came the clothes and after a dunking I got it
back! A multi tool is too valuable to loose on a trip like this.
The next rapids after lunch were scouted from river left. A possible line
existed, but two big breaking waves and a blind left turn below sent us looking
for a sneak route on the other side of a low island. We boat scouted and ran
a clean class II+ to a big eddy below this rapid. A small canyon that had been
hidden by the left turn reinforced the decision to take the sneak line. The
canyon also seemed to contain a big deep rapid and we were forced to scout
from a bluff on river right. The heavy class III+ looked too powerful to run in
this wilderness context. In a more developed setting it would have been a
blast to try. Instead we made a sketchy ferry above the rapid and came into
the shallow left side from where the boat could be lined down through rocks
before paddling to the end of the drop.
Current remained as the river was set in a nice steep walled valley. Caribou
trails were plentiful, but we only saw lone males on the ridges from time to
time. Clouds and showers built up to the west as the afternoon wore on and a
headwind was fought for the last four kilometers of paddling in this gorgeous
valley. Only one other rapid was met before the final set that spilled into
Payne Lake.
Near the end of this day the Tasialouc River bent right and headed due north
through a kilometer long class II+ rapid that spilled into a beautiful protected
bay of Payne Lake, which could be seen through a gap in the mountains just
ahead. Huge ledges sprawled at the base of the rapids and we walked
around for a while to stretch our legs. Lots of pretty pink flowers grew here
and I found a rusty old leg hold trap.
Camp is set on a high bank overlooking the rapids and Payne Lake. This is
an amazing spot. More Lipton’s for dinner with potatoes and MnMs. The
showers held off while we were eating which was nice, but a moderate number
of mosquitoes kept us in the bug tent.
The next morning dawned gray and calm, perfect conditions for heading
across the thirty some kilometer expanse of Payne Lake. During our crossing
a tailwind continued to build throughout the day. This welcome push carried
us to an amazing beach campsite where it looked like every caribou in
Ungava once passed. By the time our tent was up and we were settled in for
the night the wind was ripping and big swells were breaking on the beach.
Perfect timing allowed us to sneak through Payne Lake.
class II rapid. Fishing the eddy at the bottom produced lots lake trout in the
five to ten pound range. One of these fish shook when I was getting the hook
out of its mouth and knocked my Leatherman into the water between two
rocks. I could see it down there, but would have to shove my whole head
underwater to fish it out. Off came the clothes and after a dunking I got it
back! A multi tool is too valuable to loose on a trip like this.
The next rapids after lunch were scouted from river left. A possible line
existed, but two big breaking waves and a blind left turn below sent us looking
for a sneak route on the other side of a low island. We boat scouted and ran
a clean class II+ to a big eddy below this rapid. A small canyon that had been
hidden by the left turn reinforced the decision to take the sneak line. The
canyon also seemed to contain a big deep rapid and we were forced to scout
from a bluff on river right. The heavy class III+ looked too powerful to run in
this wilderness context. In a more developed setting it would have been a
blast to try. Instead we made a sketchy ferry above the rapid and came into
the shallow left side from where the boat could be lined down through rocks
before paddling to the end of the drop.
Current remained as the river was set in a nice steep walled valley. Caribou
trails were plentiful, but we only saw lone males on the ridges from time to
time. Clouds and showers built up to the west as the afternoon wore on and a
headwind was fought for the last four kilometers of paddling in this gorgeous
valley. Only one other rapid was met before the final set that spilled into
Payne Lake.
Near the end of this day the Tasialouc River bent right and headed due north
through a kilometer long class II+ rapid that spilled into a beautiful protected
bay of Payne Lake, which could be seen through a gap in the mountains just
ahead. Huge ledges sprawled at the base of the rapids and we walked
around for a while to stretch our legs. Lots of pretty pink flowers grew here
and I found a rusty old leg hold trap.
Camp is set on a high bank overlooking the rapids and Payne Lake. This is
an amazing spot. More Lipton’s for dinner with potatoes and MnMs. The
showers held off while we were eating which was nice, but a moderate number
of mosquitoes kept us in the bug tent.
The next morning dawned gray and calm, perfect conditions for heading
across the thirty some kilometer expanse of Payne Lake. During our crossing
a tailwind continued to build throughout the day. This welcome push carried
us to an amazing beach campsite where it looked like every caribou in
Ungava once passed. By the time our tent was up and we were settled in for
the night the wind was ripping and big swells were breaking on the beach.
Perfect timing allowed us to sneak through Payne Lake.
On the morning of July 19th we woke up to a large herd of perhaps 300 caribou passing by our tent pitched at the start of the height of land portage. Since
we were downwind of the animals it was possible to hide and get very close to the creatures.
we were downwind of the animals it was possible to hide and get very close to the creatures.
A caribou walks between the photographer and out camp. If you look closely our tent is visible in the background. This was an amazing wildlife experience.
Eric Nemitz half way through the height of land portage between the Leaf and Payne watersheds. A long arm of Lake Bisson can be seen in the
distance.
distance.
Brad Bassi happy to see lots of water flowing in the small streams of the Payne River's headwaters.
A spectacular sunset ends the day in the Ungava Peninsula of arctic Quebec.
The expedition was forced to drag the boat in several places when the headwater streams
in the upper Payne River watershed spread out and became too shallow to paddle.
in the upper Payne River watershed spread out and became too shallow to paddle.
Our Northwater spray deck was essential for crossing Lake Tassialouc. Five foot swells
would have made travel in an open boat perilous. This picture was taken in a sheltered
bay of the lake.
would have made travel in an open boat perilous. This picture was taken in a sheltered
bay of the lake.
The team stops to check out the situation downstream after running some heavy water
visible in the background.
visible in the background.
A fun stretch of whitewater on the Tasialouc River lead to Payne Lake.
On the morning after reaching the height of land portage I crawled out of the tent, looked up the hill next to us, and saw a group of five or six caribou. I was so
excited that I got Eric up and out of the tent. Luckily we were downwind of the caribou and they did not seem to notice us. There were no bugs out either, which
was a big plus. I crawled to my gear barrel, grabbed the camera, and crouched down to hide. Our spot was protected by a bunch of alders and the group of
caribou was thirty to forty yards away at most. Once this first group started to walk away I looked to the left and more groups of ten to twenty could be seen walking
along the edge of the lake towards us. We hid and watched as the herd kept filing past. Some even came with in ten yards, expressing no nervousness until they
wandered downwind and caught our scent. Once this happened the caribou would run up the hill next to us, extending the show for a few more minutes. More and
more animals kept coming. You could hear their hooves clicking on the rocks as they walked up the hill away from camp. This was an absolutely unreal experience.
We must have watched at least 300 caribou walk by. We even fooled one into passing right by Eric. Smaller groups continued to come through the area for the
rest of the morning.
excited that I got Eric up and out of the tent. Luckily we were downwind of the caribou and they did not seem to notice us. There were no bugs out either, which
was a big plus. I crawled to my gear barrel, grabbed the camera, and crouched down to hide. Our spot was protected by a bunch of alders and the group of
caribou was thirty to forty yards away at most. Once this first group started to walk away I looked to the left and more groups of ten to twenty could be seen walking
along the edge of the lake towards us. We hid and watched as the herd kept filing past. Some even came with in ten yards, expressing no nervousness until they
wandered downwind and caught our scent. Once this happened the caribou would run up the hill next to us, extending the show for a few more minutes. More and
more animals kept coming. You could hear their hooves clicking on the rocks as they walked up the hill away from camp. This was an absolutely unreal experience.
We must have watched at least 300 caribou walk by. We even fooled one into passing right by Eric. Smaller groups continued to come through the area for the
rest of the morning.
North Water, the maker of our spraydeck claimed that having one on the canoe would reduce drag and make paddling even easier. Prior to making this crossing I
would have dismissed such talk as nonsense, but I am a firm believer now. Since winds like this can blow for days on end in Ungava I would never venture back into
the barrens without a deck as it allowed us to make excellent progress even in these horrendous conditions.
The second half of the crossing was not so bad. We had passed a lane of particularly big swells and for some reason the lake here, while still exposed, was slightly
more settled. After the crossing the rest of the paddle involved ducking from the lee of one island to another, only occasionally fighting the bigger gusts and turning
into the headwind from time to time. The crossing was very intense lake paddling and luckily the waters were calm behind the sheltering islands. We were both glad
that Lac Tasialouc let us pass through today. Many people would not have decided to paddle in water like that, but we were respectful and understood the
implications of the decision and the risks involved. It was exhilarating and doing so allowed the trip to keep moving. Paddling out there was a calculated risk and the
rewards far outweighed the risks. We also saw a rainbow and three of four caribou today.
would have dismissed such talk as nonsense, but I am a firm believer now. Since winds like this can blow for days on end in Ungava I would never venture back into
the barrens without a deck as it allowed us to make excellent progress even in these horrendous conditions.
The second half of the crossing was not so bad. We had passed a lane of particularly big swells and for some reason the lake here, while still exposed, was slightly
more settled. After the crossing the rest of the paddle involved ducking from the lee of one island to another, only occasionally fighting the bigger gusts and turning
into the headwind from time to time. The crossing was very intense lake paddling and luckily the waters were calm behind the sheltering islands. We were both glad
that Lac Tasialouc let us pass through today. Many people would not have decided to paddle in water like that, but we were respectful and understood the
implications of the decision and the risks involved. It was exhilarating and doing so allowed the trip to keep moving. Paddling out there was a calculated risk and the
rewards far outweighed the risks. We also saw a rainbow and three of four caribou today.
