| STAGE FIVE - PAYNE RIVER HEADWATERS |
On the morning after reaching the height of land portage I
crawled out of the tent, looked up the hill next to us, and saw
a group of five or six caribou. I was so excited that I got Eric
up and out of the tent. Luckily we were downwind of the
caribou and they did not seem to notice us. There were no
bugs out either, which was a big plus. I crawled to my gear
barrel, grabbed the camera, and crouched down to hide. Our
spot was protected by a bunch of alders and the group of
caribou was thirty to forty yards away at most. Once this first
group started to walk away I looked to the left and more
groups of ten to twenty could be seen walking along the edge
of the lake towards us. We hid and watched as the herd kept
filing past. Some even came with in ten yards, expressing no
nervousness until they wandered downwind and caught our
scent. Once this happened the caribou would run up the hill
next to us, extending the show for a few more minutes. More
and more animals kept coming. You could hear their hooves
clicking on the rocks as they walked up the hill away from
camp. This was an absolutely unreal experience. We must
have watched at least 300 caribou walk by. We even fooled
one into passing right by Eric. Smaller groups continued to
come through the area for the rest of the morning.
Eric and I ate breakfast as some stragglers came through,
then started our three quarters of a kilometer portage across
the height of land between the Leaf and Payne watershed.
The carry was made in two trips. On the first trip I watched
groups of caribou nervously sidestep me until I left the first
heavy double load at the top of a knoll. On the second trip a
big group walked right through the pile of gear while trying to
avoid me.
Northern Quebec is home to two of the most prolific caribou
herds in the world. Although the massive herds of western
North America seem to get all of the attention, the George
River Herd and the Leaf River Herd of northern Quebec both
number over 700,000 individuals. The dynamics of these
large ungulates has mystified natives depending on them for
food for thousands of years. More recently, scientists have
been baffled by the size and health of the herds. For the
remainder of the trip we saw at least a few caribou each day.
crawled out of the tent, looked up the hill next to us, and saw
a group of five or six caribou. I was so excited that I got Eric
up and out of the tent. Luckily we were downwind of the
caribou and they did not seem to notice us. There were no
bugs out either, which was a big plus. I crawled to my gear
barrel, grabbed the camera, and crouched down to hide. Our
spot was protected by a bunch of alders and the group of
caribou was thirty to forty yards away at most. Once this first
group started to walk away I looked to the left and more
groups of ten to twenty could be seen walking along the edge
of the lake towards us. We hid and watched as the herd kept
filing past. Some even came with in ten yards, expressing no
nervousness until they wandered downwind and caught our
scent. Once this happened the caribou would run up the hill
next to us, extending the show for a few more minutes. More
and more animals kept coming. You could hear their hooves
clicking on the rocks as they walked up the hill away from
camp. This was an absolutely unreal experience. We must
have watched at least 300 caribou walk by. We even fooled
one into passing right by Eric. Smaller groups continued to
come through the area for the rest of the morning.
Eric and I ate breakfast as some stragglers came through,
then started our three quarters of a kilometer portage across
the height of land between the Leaf and Payne watershed.
The carry was made in two trips. On the first trip I watched
groups of caribou nervously sidestep me until I left the first
heavy double load at the top of a knoll. On the second trip a
big group walked right through the pile of gear while trying to
avoid me.
Northern Quebec is home to two of the most prolific caribou
herds in the world. Although the massive herds of western
North America seem to get all of the attention, the George
River Herd and the Leaf River Herd of northern Quebec both
number over 700,000 individuals. The dynamics of these
large ungulates has mystified natives depending on them for
food for thousands of years. More recently, scientists have
been baffled by the size and health of the herds. For the
remainder of the trip we saw at least a few caribou each day.
At the end of the portage we were at the southern tip of a narrow bay that
extended all the way down from the main body of Lac Bisson. This arm was
two kilometers long and never more than few hundred meters wide. A tailing
crosswind pushed us up this arm as several more caribou watched from the
surrounding hills. From here to the end of the trip we would be in the company
of caribous for some part of each day. Once we hit the main lake big three
foot swells and a ripping tailwind pushed us along. We made a five kilometer
run in well under and hour with very little paddling. Had we been going the
other way travel would not have been possible.
At the end of this stretch was Lake Bisson’s outlet into the Payne River
system. An easy 250 meter portage followed a shallow creek down to another
lake. The surroundings are completely barren now. There are no trees or
bushed at all. A one kilometer paddle lead to a short 150 meter carry. We ate
lunch here up on a hill overlooking many fresh caribou trails trampled into
mud. There was even enough wind to keep it a bug free meal.
At this point we had entered a narrow chain of lakes connected by narrows or
short sections of streams that seemed to follow some sort of fault or straight
line through the landscape. Fifteen kilometers remained to where we wanted
to camp for the night. Since the other small ponds and creeks we had just
come up were dry, this section made us a little nervous. However, all of the
narrows were passable and the streams had just enough water to get down.
This was probably because of the local topography. The lakes were in a
trench between steep hills which seemed to keep them very deep. We
reached our first downstream water in the form of some twenty to thirty foot
wide shallow class II rapids. At times we had to more or less ram the canoe
over rocks, but we stayed in the boat and it was way easier and more fun than
portaging. Spirits soared, and caribou were spotted sporadically throughout
the day. Blue sky lay off to the north while clouds persevered to the south.
That night we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets either of us
had witnessed in our combined years of doing wilderness trips.
Although there were still plenty of uncertainties, we were delighted to have
found that the small streams connecting the lakes in this region had enough
water to paddle. With any luck this trend would continue and allow us to reach
Lac Tasialouc without much trouble.
extended all the way down from the main body of Lac Bisson. This arm was
two kilometers long and never more than few hundred meters wide. A tailing
crosswind pushed us up this arm as several more caribou watched from the
surrounding hills. From here to the end of the trip we would be in the company
of caribous for some part of each day. Once we hit the main lake big three
foot swells and a ripping tailwind pushed us along. We made a five kilometer
run in well under and hour with very little paddling. Had we been going the
other way travel would not have been possible.
At the end of this stretch was Lake Bisson’s outlet into the Payne River
system. An easy 250 meter portage followed a shallow creek down to another
lake. The surroundings are completely barren now. There are no trees or
bushed at all. A one kilometer paddle lead to a short 150 meter carry. We ate
lunch here up on a hill overlooking many fresh caribou trails trampled into
mud. There was even enough wind to keep it a bug free meal.
At this point we had entered a narrow chain of lakes connected by narrows or
short sections of streams that seemed to follow some sort of fault or straight
line through the landscape. Fifteen kilometers remained to where we wanted
to camp for the night. Since the other small ponds and creeks we had just
come up were dry, this section made us a little nervous. However, all of the
narrows were passable and the streams had just enough water to get down.
This was probably because of the local topography. The lakes were in a
trench between steep hills which seemed to keep them very deep. We
reached our first downstream water in the form of some twenty to thirty foot
wide shallow class II rapids. At times we had to more or less ram the canoe
over rocks, but we stayed in the boat and it was way easier and more fun than
portaging. Spirits soared, and caribou were spotted sporadically throughout
the day. Blue sky lay off to the north while clouds persevered to the south.
That night we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets either of us
had witnessed in our combined years of doing wilderness trips.
Although there were still plenty of uncertainties, we were delighted to have
found that the small streams connecting the lakes in this region had enough
water to paddle. With any luck this trend would continue and allow us to reach
Lac Tasialouc without much trouble.
Of course our hopes of higher water levels were dashed the very next day. In
the afternoon our route swung east and allowed us to ride a tailwind for
several kilometers to a section of marked rapids. Water levels were clearly
down and sneaking through some rocky barriers before the rapids was tricky.
The lake continued to narrow and the first pitch of the outlet rapids was barely
passable. Really we just about scraped down this first section. Another foot
of water would have made this a nice easy class II rapid.
After this first pitch the rapids become wider and the river made several
bends. As things spread out it became impossible to paddle any more. Again,
another foot or two of water would probably have made this whole section
passable. The low water did not seem as extreme on this side of the divide as
it had while coming up to the height of land. Perhaps now we were only
dealing with seasonal low water. To pass this section we had to drag the
canoe over many shallow, partially submerged rocks while stumbling around in
the water and balancing on the tips of slippery boulders to avoid falling into
waist deep water. There was lots of hopping in and out of the canoe through
here and it was east to loose patience and become frustrated. Even though
much gel paint was left on the rocks the ABS hull of this tough Nova Craft
canoe is undamaged.
Our next challenge was crossing the massive Lac Tasialouc. For ten kilometer
it was necessary to paddling with full exposure to all of the big open waters.
We could have hugged the shore, but the swells were breaking there and a
more direct off shore route allowed us to stay out of a headwind. The crossing
was broken into two sections by a long point sticking out from the southeast
shore of the lake.
The first half of the crossing proved to be the most exciting experience I have
ever had while paddling on a lake. Most of the swells were a solid four feet tall
and some were over five in height, reaching well over our heads. It was
insane to see how much the canoe pitched and rolled in those waves. Several
of these swells grew steep enough to break, and one even crashed over Eric’s
chest. Had it not been for the North Water spray deck we would have been
goners for sure. This was big and scary water. A dump out there would have
been serious and life threatening and the water was way too big for paddling
without the spraydeck. The huge dark waves combined with occasional wind
driven sideways rain made for some crazy moments. At one point we were
getting pushed into the point and had to paddle particularly hard to work our
way out and around the rocks. Luckily we were traveling perpendicular to the
swells and were able to get along with surprising speed. The fully loaded
canoe was surprisingly stable and I never felt like we were going to capsize.
North Water, the maker of our spraydeck claimed that having one on the
canoe would reduce drag and make paddling even easier. Prior to making
this crossing I would have dismissed such talk as nonsense, but I am a firm
believer now. Since winds like this can blow for days on end in Ungava I would
never venture back into the barrens without a deck as it allowed us to make
excellent progress even in these horrendous conditions.
The second half of the crossing was not so bad. We had passed a lane of
particularly big swells and for some reason the lake here, while still exposed,
was slightly more settled. After the crossing the rest of the paddle involved
ducking from the lee of one island to another, only occasionally fighting the
bigger gusts and turning into the headwind from time to time. The crossing
was very intense lake paddling and luckily the waters were calm behind the
sheltering islands. We were both glad that Lac Tasialouc let us pass through
today. Many people would not have decided to paddle in water like that, but
we were respectful and understood the implications of the decision and the
risks involved. It was exhilarating and doing so allowed the trip to keep
moving. Paddling out there was a calculated risk and the rewards far
outweighed the risks. We also saw a rainbow and three of four caribou today.
the afternoon our route swung east and allowed us to ride a tailwind for
several kilometers to a section of marked rapids. Water levels were clearly
down and sneaking through some rocky barriers before the rapids was tricky.
The lake continued to narrow and the first pitch of the outlet rapids was barely
passable. Really we just about scraped down this first section. Another foot
of water would have made this a nice easy class II rapid.
After this first pitch the rapids become wider and the river made several
bends. As things spread out it became impossible to paddle any more. Again,
another foot or two of water would probably have made this whole section
passable. The low water did not seem as extreme on this side of the divide as
it had while coming up to the height of land. Perhaps now we were only
dealing with seasonal low water. To pass this section we had to drag the
canoe over many shallow, partially submerged rocks while stumbling around in
the water and balancing on the tips of slippery boulders to avoid falling into
waist deep water. There was lots of hopping in and out of the canoe through
here and it was east to loose patience and become frustrated. Even though
much gel paint was left on the rocks the ABS hull of this tough Nova Craft
canoe is undamaged.
Our next challenge was crossing the massive Lac Tasialouc. For ten kilometer
it was necessary to paddling with full exposure to all of the big open waters.
We could have hugged the shore, but the swells were breaking there and a
more direct off shore route allowed us to stay out of a headwind. The crossing
was broken into two sections by a long point sticking out from the southeast
shore of the lake.
The first half of the crossing proved to be the most exciting experience I have
ever had while paddling on a lake. Most of the swells were a solid four feet tall
and some were over five in height, reaching well over our heads. It was
insane to see how much the canoe pitched and rolled in those waves. Several
of these swells grew steep enough to break, and one even crashed over Eric’s
chest. Had it not been for the North Water spray deck we would have been
goners for sure. This was big and scary water. A dump out there would have
been serious and life threatening and the water was way too big for paddling
without the spraydeck. The huge dark waves combined with occasional wind
driven sideways rain made for some crazy moments. At one point we were
getting pushed into the point and had to paddle particularly hard to work our
way out and around the rocks. Luckily we were traveling perpendicular to the
swells and were able to get along with surprising speed. The fully loaded
canoe was surprisingly stable and I never felt like we were going to capsize.
North Water, the maker of our spraydeck claimed that having one on the
canoe would reduce drag and make paddling even easier. Prior to making
this crossing I would have dismissed such talk as nonsense, but I am a firm
believer now. Since winds like this can blow for days on end in Ungava I would
never venture back into the barrens without a deck as it allowed us to make
excellent progress even in these horrendous conditions.
The second half of the crossing was not so bad. We had passed a lane of
particularly big swells and for some reason the lake here, while still exposed,
was slightly more settled. After the crossing the rest of the paddle involved
ducking from the lee of one island to another, only occasionally fighting the
bigger gusts and turning into the headwind from time to time. The crossing
was very intense lake paddling and luckily the waters were calm behind the
sheltering islands. We were both glad that Lac Tasialouc let us pass through
today. Many people would not have decided to paddle in water like that, but
we were respectful and understood the implications of the decision and the
risks involved. It was exhilarating and doing so allowed the trip to keep
moving. Paddling out there was a calculated risk and the rewards far
outweighed the risks. We also saw a rainbow and three of four caribou today.
The very next day saw some significant whitewater. Lunch was had at a nice class II rapid. Fishing the eddy at the bottom produced lots lake
trout in the five to ten pound range. One of these fish shook when I was getting the hook out of its mouth and knocked my Leatherman into the
water between two rocks. I could see it down there, but would have to shove my whole head underwater to fish it out. Off came the clothes and
after a dunking I got it back! A multi tool is too valuable to loose on a trip like this.
The next rapids after lunch were scouted from river left. A possible line existed, but two big breaking waves and a blind left turn below sent us
looking for a sneak route on the other side of a low island. We boat scouted and ran a clean class II+ to a big eddy below this rapid. A small
canyon that had been hidden by the left turn reinforced the decision to take the sneak line. The canyon also seemed to contain a big deep
rapid and we were forced to scout from a bluff on river right. The heavy class III+ looked too powerful to run in this wilderness context. In a
more developed setting it would have been a blast to try. Instead we made a sketchy ferry above the rapid and came into the shallow left side
from where the boat could be lined down through rocks before paddling to the end of the drop.
Current remained as the river was set in a nice steep walled valley. Caribou trails were plentiful, but we only saw lone males on the ridges from
time to time. Clouds and showers built up to the west as the afternoon wore on and a headwind was fought for the last four kilometers of
paddling in this gorgeous valley. Only one other rapid was met before the final set that spilled into Payne Lake.
Near the end of this day the Tasialouc River bent right and headed due north through a kilometer long class II+ rapid that spilled into a
beautiful protected bay of Payne Lake, which could be seen through a gap in the mountains just ahead. Huge ledges sprawled at the base of
the rapids and we walked around for a while to stretch our legs. Lots of pretty pink flowers grew here and I found a rusty old leg hold trap.
Camp is set on a high bank overlooking the rapids and Payne Lake. This is an amazing spot. More Lipton’s for dinner with potatoes and
MnMs. The showers held off while we were eating which was nice, but a moderate number of mosquitoes kept us in the bug tent.
The next morning dawned gray and calm, perfect conditions for heading across the thirty some kilometer expanse of Payne Lake. During our
crossing a tailwind continued to build throughout the day. This welcome push carried us to an amazing beach campsite where it looked like
every caribou in Ungava once passed. By the time our tent was up and we were settled in for the night the wind was ripping and big swells
were breaking on the beach. Perfect timing allowed us to sneak through Payne Lake.
trout in the five to ten pound range. One of these fish shook when I was getting the hook out of its mouth and knocked my Leatherman into the
water between two rocks. I could see it down there, but would have to shove my whole head underwater to fish it out. Off came the clothes and
after a dunking I got it back! A multi tool is too valuable to loose on a trip like this.
The next rapids after lunch were scouted from river left. A possible line existed, but two big breaking waves and a blind left turn below sent us
looking for a sneak route on the other side of a low island. We boat scouted and ran a clean class II+ to a big eddy below this rapid. A small
canyon that had been hidden by the left turn reinforced the decision to take the sneak line. The canyon also seemed to contain a big deep
rapid and we were forced to scout from a bluff on river right. The heavy class III+ looked too powerful to run in this wilderness context. In a
more developed setting it would have been a blast to try. Instead we made a sketchy ferry above the rapid and came into the shallow left side
from where the boat could be lined down through rocks before paddling to the end of the drop.
Current remained as the river was set in a nice steep walled valley. Caribou trails were plentiful, but we only saw lone males on the ridges from
time to time. Clouds and showers built up to the west as the afternoon wore on and a headwind was fought for the last four kilometers of
paddling in this gorgeous valley. Only one other rapid was met before the final set that spilled into Payne Lake.
Near the end of this day the Tasialouc River bent right and headed due north through a kilometer long class II+ rapid that spilled into a
beautiful protected bay of Payne Lake, which could be seen through a gap in the mountains just ahead. Huge ledges sprawled at the base of
the rapids and we walked around for a while to stretch our legs. Lots of pretty pink flowers grew here and I found a rusty old leg hold trap.
Camp is set on a high bank overlooking the rapids and Payne Lake. This is an amazing spot. More Lipton’s for dinner with potatoes and
MnMs. The showers held off while we were eating which was nice, but a moderate number of mosquitoes kept us in the bug tent.
The next morning dawned gray and calm, perfect conditions for heading across the thirty some kilometer expanse of Payne Lake. During our
crossing a tailwind continued to build throughout the day. This welcome push carried us to an amazing beach campsite where it looked like
every caribou in Ungava once passed. By the time our tent was up and we were settled in for the night the wind was ripping and big swells
were breaking on the beach. Perfect timing allowed us to sneak through Payne Lake.
On the morning of July 19th we woke up to a large herd of perhaps 300 caribou passing by
our tent pitched at the start of the height of land portage. Since we were downwind of the
animals it was possible to hide and get very close to the creatures.
our tent pitched at the start of the height of land portage. Since we were downwind of the
animals it was possible to hide and get very close to the creatures.
A caribou walks between the photographer and out camp. If you look
closely our tent is visible in the background. This was an amazing
wildlife experience.
closely our tent is visible in the background. This was an amazing
wildlife experience.
Eric Nemitz half way through the height of land portage between the Leaf and Payne
watersheds. A long arm of Lake Bisson can be seen in the distance.
watersheds. A long arm of Lake Bisson can be seen in the distance.
Brad Bassi happy to see lots of water flowing in the small streams of the
Payne River's headwaters.
Payne River's headwaters.
A spectacular sunset ends the day in the Ungava Peninsula of arctic
Quebec.
Quebec.
The expedition was forced to drag the boat in several
places when the headwater streams in the upper Payne
River watershed spread out and became too shallow to
paddle.
places when the headwater streams in the upper Payne
River watershed spread out and became too shallow to
paddle.
Our Northwater spray deck was essential for crossing Lake Tassialouc.
Five foot swells would have made travel in an open boat perilous. This
picture was taken in a sheltered bay of the lake.
Five foot swells would have made travel in an open boat perilous. This
picture was taken in a sheltered bay of the lake.
The team stops to check out the situation downstream after running some heavy
water visible in the background.
water visible in the background.
A fun stretch of whitewater on the Tasialouc River lead to Payne Lake.