| STAGE SIX - PAYNE LAKE TO TIDEWATER IN UNGAVA BAY |
Our first day down from Payne Lake was entirely flat until the afternoon. By two thirty or three we came to the outlet rapids which are labeled as
Decharge Ariakalak on the map. These spectacular rapids were two miles long and dropped sixty feet in this distance. The first few hundred
meters of the rapids we snuck on the right before being forced to stop and scout ahead. The scout showed a big, marginally runnable class III+
continuing into a big water class IV+ rapid that twisted out of sight around a bend. This was certainly no place for a loaded tripping canoe. Luckily
the heavy intro class III+ was easily lined. After lining we were able to paddle another hundred meters or so to the head of the biggest part of the
rapid. At this point we began portaging.
We carried along the open boulder jumble that was the shore line for a few hundred meters to what was one of the best campsites of the trip. Our
tent was set up in the middle of a ledgy point sticking out into the steepest part of the rapid. The crystal clear water added to the appeal of the
rapid. If only I had my kayak now! The soil was so thin on this ledge that we had to guy out the tents with rocks. This was not really big deal, but
each stone had to be carried up from water level because there were none in the immediate area. A pretty good display of northern lights greeted
us that evening, but the skies never really darkened enough for their full majesty to be seen.
On the following morning the blackflies were completely out of control. It was very hot out and there was no way to escape being swarmed by
these winged monsters. Even though we were covered up and not getting bit, the sheer number of flies was appalling. They were literally covering
every part of our body and all of our gear. It was maddening. One swat would produce hundreds of dead flies and create a black paste that
smelled vaguely of fish.
A quick breakfast had us paddling by ten. We ran the bottom half mile of the big rapids and found that they were manageable splashy class III. A
few of the waves were pretty big and we managed to take on a lot of water, but this was easily bailed out while floating below the drop. The current
was so swift that we covered a kilometer while I bailed.
The day grew hotter and windless as time wore on. It eventually became too warm for the bugs and we were able to take off our head nets. For
half of the morning there was a steady current, but that diminished and gave way to a sandy bottom river running due east with a sluggish current.
Several caribou were seen in the water along this stretch and then several more after our lunch stop. After a few hours of paddling in the relatively
flat water of the upper Payne the river changed dramatically as it made a huge bend to the left and ran due north. At this bend the river squeezes
between two ranges of big hills and accelerates as it begins to drop steadily over a rocky bottom. The current seemed to rocket us along as the
hills grew bigger and we entered an interesting pass.
By 9:00 pm we started to search for a campsite and by 9:30 one had been located. Eric and I were very pleased to check the maps and find that
55 miles had been covered today, which is an excellent distance considering that we had a late start and hiked at lunch. To reach Kangirsuk by
Saturday afternoon in order to catch our flight we needed to cover 35 mile tomorrow, then 25, 25, and 15 over the remaining days. If the weather
held out we knew that this was possible. Still, this meant that some long days were coming.
Decharge Ariakalak on the map. These spectacular rapids were two miles long and dropped sixty feet in this distance. The first few hundred
meters of the rapids we snuck on the right before being forced to stop and scout ahead. The scout showed a big, marginally runnable class III+
continuing into a big water class IV+ rapid that twisted out of sight around a bend. This was certainly no place for a loaded tripping canoe. Luckily
the heavy intro class III+ was easily lined. After lining we were able to paddle another hundred meters or so to the head of the biggest part of the
rapid. At this point we began portaging.
We carried along the open boulder jumble that was the shore line for a few hundred meters to what was one of the best campsites of the trip. Our
tent was set up in the middle of a ledgy point sticking out into the steepest part of the rapid. The crystal clear water added to the appeal of the
rapid. If only I had my kayak now! The soil was so thin on this ledge that we had to guy out the tents with rocks. This was not really big deal, but
each stone had to be carried up from water level because there were none in the immediate area. A pretty good display of northern lights greeted
us that evening, but the skies never really darkened enough for their full majesty to be seen.
On the following morning the blackflies were completely out of control. It was very hot out and there was no way to escape being swarmed by
these winged monsters. Even though we were covered up and not getting bit, the sheer number of flies was appalling. They were literally covering
every part of our body and all of our gear. It was maddening. One swat would produce hundreds of dead flies and create a black paste that
smelled vaguely of fish.
A quick breakfast had us paddling by ten. We ran the bottom half mile of the big rapids and found that they were manageable splashy class III. A
few of the waves were pretty big and we managed to take on a lot of water, but this was easily bailed out while floating below the drop. The current
was so swift that we covered a kilometer while I bailed.
The day grew hotter and windless as time wore on. It eventually became too warm for the bugs and we were able to take off our head nets. For
half of the morning there was a steady current, but that diminished and gave way to a sandy bottom river running due east with a sluggish current.
Several caribou were seen in the water along this stretch and then several more after our lunch stop. After a few hours of paddling in the relatively
flat water of the upper Payne the river changed dramatically as it made a huge bend to the left and ran due north. At this bend the river squeezes
between two ranges of big hills and accelerates as it begins to drop steadily over a rocky bottom. The current seemed to rocket us along as the
hills grew bigger and we entered an interesting pass.
By 9:00 pm we started to search for a campsite and by 9:30 one had been located. Eric and I were very pleased to check the maps and find that
55 miles had been covered today, which is an excellent distance considering that we had a late start and hiked at lunch. To reach Kangirsuk by
Saturday afternoon in order to catch our flight we needed to cover 35 mile tomorrow, then 25, 25, and 15 over the remaining days. If the weather
held out we knew that this was possible. Still, this meant that some long days were coming.
Another massively long day followed, but it held many amazing
sights. Forty miles were covered and we were looking to make
a similar distance the next day. Three days remained to reach
Kangirsuk, which lay roughly seventy miles away. A good
current was with us for most of the day, but the river slowed in
the afternoon and looked like it would be essentially flat for
most of the next day. Luckily a south wind helped us out for the
first half of the day.
By noon it was too hot and breezy for flies which was fantastic.
The bottom part of the upper Payne is still sandy bottomed, but
it flowed between majestic hills. The immediate edge of the
river was a plain that extending in for one to two hundred
meters before the land rose in steep hills or cliffs. The farther
downstream we went, the taller the hills became. Not a tree
could be found anywhere and the scenery was inspiring.
Until lunch time the Payne moved at a reasonable speed, but
was essentially free of rapids. At mid day we reached a place
marked on the map as Chutes Sarvakalak. This came after
passing through a particularly stunning gorge. High cobble
banks now lined the river and current accelerated out of sight
around a sharp left turn. Since we believed that this may be a
huge rapid we pulled over to scout. I scrambled up a very
unstable slope of precariously perched boulders and was
surprised to find that the fast water in front of us lead to a wavy
looking class II rapid of little consequence.
By three thirty we had reached the junction with the Lepelle
River, which enters from the north. Since this was a significant
landmark we stopped here for a long rest and hiked a pointed
hill with a cairn perched at its summit. This native Inukshuk was
constructed from flat stones and made to be the size of a large
person. In addition to marking the way for Inuit they are also
landmarks that say, "people have been here".
The lower river was easily twice as wide as what we had been
paddling on and it flowed between mountains of rugged rock.
This was an incredible valley and we were privileged to pass
through it for the next two and a half days. At times it was
possible to see at least five or six miles downstream. Having
the same view for two hours can become monotonous and
tiresome, but we hung in there.
sights. Forty miles were covered and we were looking to make
a similar distance the next day. Three days remained to reach
Kangirsuk, which lay roughly seventy miles away. A good
current was with us for most of the day, but the river slowed in
the afternoon and looked like it would be essentially flat for
most of the next day. Luckily a south wind helped us out for the
first half of the day.
By noon it was too hot and breezy for flies which was fantastic.
The bottom part of the upper Payne is still sandy bottomed, but
it flowed between majestic hills. The immediate edge of the
river was a plain that extending in for one to two hundred
meters before the land rose in steep hills or cliffs. The farther
downstream we went, the taller the hills became. Not a tree
could be found anywhere and the scenery was inspiring.
Until lunch time the Payne moved at a reasonable speed, but
was essentially free of rapids. At mid day we reached a place
marked on the map as Chutes Sarvakalak. This came after
passing through a particularly stunning gorge. High cobble
banks now lined the river and current accelerated out of sight
around a sharp left turn. Since we believed that this may be a
huge rapid we pulled over to scout. I scrambled up a very
unstable slope of precariously perched boulders and was
surprised to find that the fast water in front of us lead to a wavy
looking class II rapid of little consequence.
By three thirty we had reached the junction with the Lepelle
River, which enters from the north. Since this was a significant
landmark we stopped here for a long rest and hiked a pointed
hill with a cairn perched at its summit. This native Inukshuk was
constructed from flat stones and made to be the size of a large
person. In addition to marking the way for Inuit they are also
landmarks that say, "people have been here".
The lower river was easily twice as wide as what we had been
paddling on and it flowed between mountains of rugged rock.
This was an incredible valley and we were privileged to pass
through it for the next two and a half days. At times it was
possible to see at least five or six miles downstream. Having
the same view for two hours can become monotonous and
tiresome, but we hung in there.
Late that afternoon we rounded one of the long corners on this stretch of the Payne and had an unexpected encounter. The sun glared in
my eyes but I spotted some big dark shapes up on a hill. Musk Ox! There are only a few thousand of these in Quebec that were
reintroduced in the early seventies and we were lucky to see them. Click here to learn more about Musk Ox and see our pictures.
my eyes but I spotted some big dark shapes up on a hill. Musk Ox! There are only a few thousand of these in Quebec that were
reintroduced in the early seventies and we were lucky to see them. Click here to learn more about Musk Ox and see our pictures.
The third big day in a row was finished and another forty miles were down. Eric and I had
just covered 130 miles in three days, which was a respectable distance. Huge
straightaways and big mountain scenery dominated the day. Again we found ourselves
paddling for two hours at a time without the view changing. The river here is big, wide, and
slow, with the exception of a few rapids. The terrain is simply too big and spectacular for a
camera to do it justice. As we paddled farther down the lower Payne River several small
cabins were seen.
All morning we were working towards a section where rapids were marked on the map. By
the time this was reached I was very hungry and welcomed the rest. The first set of class II
whitewater was run from center to river right before eddying out just below a ledge marked
by an Inukshuk. This gorgeous spot was undoubtedly a favorite fishing hole for the local
Inuit. Lots of fish could be seen swimming in the clear waters below our feet, but none hit
our lures and nothing was landed. It looked like our summer of not encountering anyone
was probably going to end today or tomorrow, but that was ok.
Just above the Riviere Vachon we stopped to check out some cabins on river left and were
surprised to find them locked up tightly. In my experience the “open door” policy is always
in effect with backcountry buildings. Perhaps because we were within forty miles of town
people assumed that it made sense to lock their things. At this junction with the Vachon
River the Payne spread out and became a kilometer wide while running through a confusing
mess of islands in a long class II rapid. The left side of the river is best here and we were
happy to have followed this deeper channel through such a confusing section of rock
islands and sand bars. Just above these rapids we watched a family of caribou cross the
wide river. At the actual junction with the Vachon many cabins stood in what could be
described as a sort of second village for the people of Kangirsuk. I heard one clear
gunshot, but was not able to locate a boat or anyone moving in the immediate area. The
river is so wide here that it would be easy to miss someone.
Our camp is set up just above a nice beach in a pretty cove at the base of a big mountain
on the north side of the river. I hiked the four or five hundred foot mountain and have to
admit that the steep climb was challenging. From the bottom it seemed like a series of
ledges would make for a sort of natural staircase up the mountain. In reality these ledges
were each eight to ten feet tall and had to be climbed or avoided. From the top of the hill I
spotted tidewater at the head of Payne Sound. From the head of the sound it is thirty or
forty miles to Kangirsuk. If things go well we will be camped out within ten miles of town by
the end of tomorrow. We should make it with no problem if the weather cooperates and we
are able to figure out the tides quickly.
just covered 130 miles in three days, which was a respectable distance. Huge
straightaways and big mountain scenery dominated the day. Again we found ourselves
paddling for two hours at a time without the view changing. The river here is big, wide, and
slow, with the exception of a few rapids. The terrain is simply too big and spectacular for a
camera to do it justice. As we paddled farther down the lower Payne River several small
cabins were seen.
All morning we were working towards a section where rapids were marked on the map. By
the time this was reached I was very hungry and welcomed the rest. The first set of class II
whitewater was run from center to river right before eddying out just below a ledge marked
by an Inukshuk. This gorgeous spot was undoubtedly a favorite fishing hole for the local
Inuit. Lots of fish could be seen swimming in the clear waters below our feet, but none hit
our lures and nothing was landed. It looked like our summer of not encountering anyone
was probably going to end today or tomorrow, but that was ok.
Just above the Riviere Vachon we stopped to check out some cabins on river left and were
surprised to find them locked up tightly. In my experience the “open door” policy is always
in effect with backcountry buildings. Perhaps because we were within forty miles of town
people assumed that it made sense to lock their things. At this junction with the Vachon
River the Payne spread out and became a kilometer wide while running through a confusing
mess of islands in a long class II rapid. The left side of the river is best here and we were
happy to have followed this deeper channel through such a confusing section of rock
islands and sand bars. Just above these rapids we watched a family of caribou cross the
wide river. At the actual junction with the Vachon many cabins stood in what could be
described as a sort of second village for the people of Kangirsuk. I heard one clear
gunshot, but was not able to locate a boat or anyone moving in the immediate area. The
river is so wide here that it would be easy to miss someone.
Our camp is set up just above a nice beach in a pretty cove at the base of a big mountain
on the north side of the river. I hiked the four or five hundred foot mountain and have to
admit that the steep climb was challenging. From the bottom it seemed like a series of
ledges would make for a sort of natural staircase up the mountain. In reality these ledges
were each eight to ten feet tall and had to be climbed or avoided. From the top of the hill I
spotted tidewater at the head of Payne Sound. From the head of the sound it is thirty or
forty miles to Kangirsuk. If things go well we will be camped out within ten miles of town by
the end of tomorrow. We should make it with no problem if the weather cooperates and we
are able to figure out the tides quickly.
Brad Bassi looking over the Decharge Ariakalak. These large rapids drained
Payne Lake.
Payne Lake.
The team sets up a spectacular campsite on a point of land overlooking Payne
Lake's outlet rapids. Eric can be seen staking out the homemade mesh bug tent.
Lake's outlet rapids. Eric can be seen staking out the homemade mesh bug tent.
Sometimes the blackflies are thick enough to drive
you crazy. Without a headnet Eric would be in trouble.
you crazy. Without a headnet Eric would be in trouble.
Eric Nemitz unloading the canoe after a fifty mile day
on the Payne River in calm conditions.
on the Payne River in calm conditions.
Eric Nemitz enjoying one of the endless big views on the Payne River. Note the complete lack
of trees on the land and continuous easy rapids in the river. A nice breeze kept the flies at bay
on the hill.
of trees on the land and continuous easy rapids in the river. A nice breeze kept the flies at bay
on the hill.
We ran many miles of fast and easy whitewater on the Payne River. At times it was
possible to make almost seven miles in an hour.
possible to make almost seven miles in an hour.
On the trip it was essential to constantly keep of our location on the maps. The lower
Payne was in hilly country and the numerous landmarks made this a simple affair.
Payne was in hilly country and the numerous landmarks made this a simple affair.
A huge Inuit Inukshuk stands watch over the junction of the Lepelle and Payne River.
The massive lower Payne River can be seen stretching for five miles as it rounds a
long bend.
The massive lower Payne River can be seen stretching for five miles as it rounds a
long bend.
Seeing a small herd of Musk Ox was a spectacular sight.
This Inukshuk appeared to be marking a fishing hole.
Although we saw many large fish in the water we were
unable to land any at this particular spot.
Although we saw many large fish in the water we were
unable to land any at this particular spot.