North Umpqua River
Location - East of Roseburg, Oregon

Difficulty - Class II-III

Length - 16 miles

Level - 800 cfs    Date - Oct 2006 and July 2007
The North Umpqua River rises from lakes and springs high in
Oregon’s Cascade Mountains and flows for nearly one hundred
miles due west towards the community of Roseburg.  Along its
way the river drops over some spectacular waterfalls, but for
most of its course the gradient is relatively uniform and
produces miles of fun beginner to intermediate whitewater.  
While the river can run at very high levels during the rainy
season, it has a baseline summer flow that stabilizes between
700 and 800 cfs which provides plenty of water for paddling.  
The spring fed river contains cold and clear water and supports
summer steelhead in addition to a strong run of salmon each fall
making equally popular for both boaters and anglers alike.   
My first run down the North Umpqua was a midweek solo canoe trip made in the
middle of October. I was lucky to be able to hitch a ride from the takeout at Gravel
Bin all the way up to the Boulder Flat put in.  I had expected to see at least a few
other boaters on the river, but I had the run to myself.  During the entire float I saw
only a few fishermen and was treated to schools of salmon congregating at the
base of gravel bar rapids on their way upstream to the spawning beds far up small
tributaries.  I found all but two of the rapids easy to run in my canoe, and ended up
lining the two steeper rapids that I decided would be dangerous to run with no one
else around.  

My second trip down the North Umpqua was much different.  This excursion covered
the same stretch of river, but it was made in late July, on a crystal clear Saturday.  I
was guiding a raft paddled by Michelle and both of my parents who were out visiting
us for a few weeks.  Although a fair number of people were out on the water, there
was plenty of solitude and relaxation to be had.  

The river starts out rocky and fast with continuous class II water interspersed with
frequent class II+ or east class III rapids.  At summer flows a fair bit of maneuvering
is required through this section, and while the water is not pushy, there are waves
and drops big enough to keep paddlers entertained.  A road follows the river closely
here, but it is unobtrusive and vehicles are seldom seen.  Good water reading skills
help find the deepest channel through some boulder garden rapids and there are a
few spots were it would be possible to pin a raft and get into a bit of trouble.

Interesting rock formations line parts of this upper run and its fast and continuous
nature make it very worth while. Some of the outcropping reach height of several
hundred feet and make interesting spires and pillars.  It is also in this part of the
North Umpqua that I saw the largest concentrations of spawning salmon in the
middle of October.  The fish seemed to be congregating at the bottom of large
gravel and cobble bars and it was not uncommon to see thirty or more fish in one
group.  The fact that these powerful fish are able to swim so far upstream is truly
amazing.   I consider the end of this first stretch to come when you pass under the
first highway bridge.  
For the next five miles the North Umpqua flows along at a steady pace
which allows boaters to drift and enjoy the scenery.  Steep valley walls
covered with open stands of Douglas Fir rise directly out of the water
and climb for thousands of feet.  The climate here is slightly drier than
that found in the valleys of the Willamette or McKenzie Riveres and the
difference, slight though it may be, is noticeable.  

A few long class II rapids dot this section of the North Umpqua, but
nothing difficult is encountered until you pass under a narrow bridge
near the top of Horseshoe Bend.  A riverwide ledge blocks most of the
river here with only a narrow slot on river right being runnable at
summer flows.  If the slot is clear of wood it is not a difficult line.  Below
this ledge the river eventually enters a mini gorge and runs through a
series of fun class III rapids that are steeper and have narrow channels
that produce fun waves.  The rapids are moderately technical, but
straightforward for the most part.   As the road climbs above the river
you get the feeling of traveling through a remote stretch of river while
the whitewater is consistent enough to make the run fun without ever
being intimidating or complex.  A few of the rapids have very tight lines
at low summer flows, but everything is boat scoutable.  The river
channelizes so much through this section that even at the base flow of
750 cfs some large waves and a few surprisingly strong hydraulics wait
for boaters.  
Throughout the gorge rapids remain well spaced at low flows and the
scenery is consistently incredible.  Many of the rapids are made by
boulders that have fallen into the river from the steep slopes on both
sides, which makes for fun technical drops.  In several places the North
Umpqua glides past large water sculpted boulders the size of houses and
the aqua marine blue / green water boils from underneath or has worn
windows and potholes into the rock.  

Many small surf waves dot this section of the river and eddies are
numerous.  The consistent gradient keeps the current moving and if you
don't slow down to play this two or three mile section will pass by all too
quickly.  When I canoed the run I ended up lining one of these rapids
that had a large river wide wave.  On my second trip down we easily
negotiated all of the rapids and my parents found this stretch of river a
perfect level of difficulty.   During high water events this entire section
would likely turn into fun class III whitewater with big waves and holes
forming in several locations.  At very high flows, over 4,000 cfs, much of
the run supposedly washes out.  This section is over when the river flows
underneath another narrow bridge with a large gravel bar directly
upstream from it.  
Shortly below this bridge a fun class III rapid with a nice wave ends in a small pool
where the river bends to the right and enters Pinball Rapid.  Although guidebooks rate
this as a class IV drop, at summer flows it is a class III boulder garden.  The line is tight
and involves a great deal of maneuvering, but eddies are numerous and it is possible
to break the rapid into small pieces.  Pinball was actually easier to run in a canoe than
it was in a raft, but either way, it is not terribly difficult.  

Following Pinball, the North Umpqua continues to run through numerous class II rapids
interspersed with slower sections.  Most of the excitement is over, but a few nice holes
and a sneaky drop or two wait for paddlers a short distance above the takeout at
Gravel Bin.  Boating the river immediately downstream of the Gravel Bin take out
during the summer is prohibited by law in order to keep the peace for fishermen.  It is
important to respect this closure and end all floats at Gravel Bin when it is in effect.  
Michelle, Mike, and Linda enjoy a smooth section of the North Umpqua not far below the put
in at Boulder Flat.  
Along the first part of the run the river passes several impressive rock
spires that rise high above the water.  
This picture, taken on my solo canoe descent in October, shows a rapid that is typical
of the North Umpqua.  Much of the run contains water like this.
Everyone is smiling after negotiating a series of steeper class III ledges that
provided some narrow lines and a few exciting moments.  
Someone even took a picture of me guiding the raft below one of the North
Umpqua's bigger rapids.  
Michelle and my dad did a great job of paddling up in the front of the raft.  
Everyone enjoyed the fun and scenic gorge section on the North Umpqua.
Mom and dad are having fun and enjoying the scenery while resting in an eddy
below one of the first rapids just below Horseshoe Bend.  
This class III rapid is typical of the drops found in the two mile long gorge below
Horseshoe Bend and above Pinball Rapid.  
Pinball Rapid looks much more difficult in this picture than it really
is.  This class III rapid requires some eddy hopping and
maneuvering, but the line is not terribly tough to make.