Day Two - Windy Creek to East Creek
The next morning dawned clear as a bell and quite cool in the sunless shadows of
our camp, which happened to be nestled against a particularly steep part of the
canyon wall. No one was in a big rush to get out on the water long before things
warmed up so we lounged around and slowly packed, hoping to be paddling not
long after 9:00,which was quite reasonable, especially considering the fact that we
were all awake at first light. After breakfast I shuttled gear down the steep rocks to
my canoe, which I had already moved into place and loaded up all but one barrel
before changing into shorts and river gear for the day.

Once changed I had little desire to sit around in the cold morning shadows when I
could see the sun hitting the opposite shore of the river no more than twenty yards
away. While the others readied themselves I paddled out and floated down to the
scouting beach for the actual Black Bar Falls, which is in actuality a heavy class III
rapid that deserved a respectful look, especially if running it in a canoe. From the
high bedrock ledges on river the only realistic line for my solo tripping canoe was
quite obvious. A clean tongue on far river right led past a few big breakers and
nasty looking rocks to a final drop through some waves before banking off of a cliff
at the bottom of the rapid. It looked totally doable, with the only real concern being
swamping in the waves of the last pitch. The rest of the river was a confused jumble
of rocks and big holes that would likely destroy a canoe and maybe even flip a raft. I
stretched out on the sunny ledge, enjoying temperatures at least fifteen degrees
warmer than what we had in camp, and watched the dark water rush through Black
Bar while waiting for the others to arrive.

A series of solid lines through Black Bar Falls and the tight, heavy water of Lower
Black Bar, boosted our confidence level and helped get us into the right state of
mind for the crux of the trip, Mule Creek Canyon and Blossom Bar, two stretched of
tricky water that would be encountered later in the day. For now we were to content
to float along while Scott headed back upstream to search for a lost sponge. The
river remained quite calm for the next mile or so until we reached Horseshoe Bend,
where a fun class III rapid had us looking for fry lines and catching some eddies in
one of the deepest and most dramatic spots on the upper parts of the Wild and
Scenic Rogue. Another group of boaters camped out here watched as we paddled
our canoes through here and cheered us on, apparently impressed at the ability of
the boats to handle the whitewater.

More terrific scenery followed Horseshoe Bend and soon the rive entered a long
miniature canyon cut into the bottom of the deep river valley. Many class II/III rapids
lay in this canyon and provided a great deal of entertainment for us in the canoes.
What would have been largely a scenic float in a kayak was a moderately challenging
playground for our loaded open boats. We became a little spread out and tired up with the
same group of rafters that we had mingled with yesterday, but at the end of the canyon the
Rogue enters a long lake like expansion where we were easily able to outdistance the slow
rubber rowboats.

The open flatwater reach of the Rogue was surprisingly beautiful and the large grassy fields
at Battle Bar made for an almost pastoral scene. In fact, the next several miles were
surprisingly flat and while a few riffles sped us along at times, this stretch would have been a
little painful in a kayak or raft. I happily kicked back and cruised along in my oversized canoe.
We had become very spread out at this point and I eventually stopped to wade in the water
and wait for the other solo boats to catch up. Steve and Sarah were completely out of sight,
but we were confident they would wait at the next significant piece of whitewater. Some fun
rapids were encountered, but all were easy to read and run so we kept paddling despite
being stretched thin. Eventually we all pulled over at a shaded river left beach and took a
stretch break above the first more complicated rapid we had seen in some time.
Again, I probed ahead so I could get set for taking some pictures and had a nice line through
the fun class III drop. Shortly below a steeper class III came before the river calmed again and
brought us to our lunch stop where Mule Creek entered the Rogue on river right. This is the
last campsite and convenient stopping point for paddlers before entering Mule Creek Canyon
and we had paddled all of the way to this spot before pulling out and having a lunch break. It
was just as hot as yesterday when we pulled in at Mule Creek and taking a quick swim was a
no brainer. Mule Creek itself is quite small, but paddlers had built up some small rock dams to
create pools and small cascades.

While eating we watched small lizards hurriedly scrambling across the hot rocks and watched
as a fair sized snake slithered into the shade made by our boats. Steve was the only one that
had paddled the river before and his recollection of Mule Creek Canyon was somewhat
ominous. Combined with the guidebook’s warning of class IV rapids and the swirling whirlpools
of the “Coffee Pot” Steve’s warnings made for a quiet lunch. Everyone seemed a little on edge
as they contemplated paddling into the canyon, which was nearly a mile long and contained a
quarter mile section of continuous whitewater with vertical cliff walls that prevent swimmers from
escaping the currents. Mule Creek Canyon has claimed the lives of paddlers in the past and
since the Rogue is so infrequently canoed we each had our own reservations.

According to the guidebook a few lead in rapids led to the canyon proper, where a few moves
were required to keep off of the cliff walls.  The description went on to say that the main hazard
was a steep and sticky hydraulic called Telfer’s Home somewhere on river left early on in the
canyon. Swirly fast water continued below here all of the way to the Coffee Pot, a room like
area in the canyon where huge boils and swirling eddies created whirlpools capable of holding
swimmers under water for extended periods of time. My biggest concern was swamping near
the top of the rapid and being forced to swim through the Coffee Pot and not be able to exit
the river.

After lunch I geared up and threw on my helmet before launching and floating on downstream.
It was getting even hotter out and I was ready to head into the canyon to see what it was all
about. I find that more often than not worrying about rapids is far worse than they end up
being. Still, I found myself quite a bit ahead of the others so I grabbed an eddy above the first
lead in rapid and waited for Mark and Scott to float into view. Once the team paddled into view I
peeled out and ran two surprisingly heavy rapids above the canyon proper. Since these were
bigger and pushier than I had expected I started to wonder if paddling on down into Mule
Creek Canyon was such a good idea after all. I was able to paddle a dry line and eddy out
above the entrance to the canyon.

From this vantage the first rapid in Mule Creek was visible and the line was apparent, moving
to the right away from some heavy looking lateral waves moving off of the river left wall. Once
past First Wall it was easy to recognize where Telfer’s Hole was located and it was equally
obvious that the line was to move left to right to avoid this steep pour over. I wanted to make
sure that I was able to set up for this move and I small river left eddy presented itself so I
paddled hard and stopped into the calm spot to take a few pictures. This eddy would not be
available to a raft and having to zig zag through the canyon to miss the walls and Telfer’s Hole
would make the whole stretch more difficult. I watched as the others ran through Second Wall
and made the mandatory move before I peeled out and made the move myself, missing the
hydraulic and eddying out on river right below the rapid.
I had not taken on any water in this set so after taking in the view up
and down this spectacular canyon I headed on down behind Mark
through the quick water and prepared for the Coffee Pot. The water
raced along and soon I saw the canyon walls constricting and a huge
river right boil. The water in the Coffee Pot was incredibly turbulent
and a swimmer would have had a most difficult time, but I was able to
maintain control and ride a forward stroke / brace combination through
the whirlpools and into a rive right eddy below the constriction. Now we
just had to wait for the others to come along. Just as Mark and I took
our helmets off and started to relax we heard Steve’s voice echoing.
“Forward, forward!” Then a loud BANG which was followed by silence
and then whoops of relief as the tandem canoe emerged from the
Coffee Pot and came into view. Apparently the large canoe was thrown
sideways by the boils in the constriction which resulted in the violent
piton that we had heard. Steve ended p getting thrown forward so hard
that he tore the thigh straps out of the canoe and managed to break
the center thwart on impact. Somehow no one was injured and they
made it through upright. Finally, Scott followed and cleaned the rapid.

All in all Mule Creek Canyon held some exciting rapids for the canoes
set in a spectacular and intimidating vertical walled canyon. Still, calling
the water through this stretch class IV is not accurate. At most the
rapids should be rated strong class III or maybe III+ at this level, with
the possibility for long and possible dangerous swim. In all likelihood, it
is this possibility of a dangerous swim that has led to the overrating of
the rapids. The rapid has claimed lives, but those that drowned were
not wearing floatation and after having seen the boiling waters of the
canyon it is not surprising that someone without a pfd might drown.

Below the Coffee Pot Mule Creek Canyon continues for about another
mile. Unlike the first section, the lower canyon is flat and smooth, more
of a scenic float than a challenge. With time to look around we enjoyed
the spectacularly rugged canyon walls. This deep cleft through the
Siskyou Mountains ranks as one of the prettiest spots in Oregon. In my
mind Mule Creek Canyon was the crux of the trip and although
Blossom Bar, the single biggest rapid of the trip, was just ahead, the
group was much more relaxed now than during lunch less than an hour
ago.

Eventually we rounded a sharp left turn and the river pooled up before
disappearing through a jumble of massive boulders. We had reached
Blossom Bar, a formerly unrunnable pile of rock made navigable when
a passage was blasted out by dynamite in the early nineteen
hundreds. In fact, many of the rapids on the Rogue have been
modified by dynamite, a practice condoned and paid for by the Forest
Service in an attempt to make the river safer for travel. This resulted in
many drops with smooth tongues and open lines, with Blossom Bar
being the most technical. I knew the line from having seen pictures of
the rapid, but from upstream it was clear that a scout was prudent.

We eddied out on river right and climbed to the top of the river’s inner
canyon for a view of the boulder jumble that is Blossom. From fifty feet
above the lines was obvious, starting down a smooth tongue on river
left and working back to the center above a sieve of rocks known as
the Picket Fence. From there a ramp of water led into one large wave
before the river spread out again through another boulder garden with
many lines. The moves would be easy for a canoe since there were
many eddies to use and no large holes or waves that had to be run.  
The only real concern here is not making the move from left to right
above the Picket Fence.
Blossom Bar has a reputation as being very difficult, and for loaded
rafts missing the sieve could be tricky. There have been a fair number
of fatalities at Blossom Bar. This year alone three paddlers became
entrapped here and lost their lives. Often those that have the most
trouble are inexperienced and ill equipped boaters, but this year at
least one of the accidents happened to a seasoned river runner.
Despite this sobering information, I was quite confident in my ability to
miss the Picket Fence.

After a quick scout I headed back to my boat and paddled out of the
eddy towards the looming cliff on river left at the top of the rapid. My
plan was simple, enter slowly and eddy behind the large, house sized
boulder, above the picket fence sieve. I paddled confidently and swung
a bit into the tail of a small eddy. From here it was basically a simple
ferry move to the eddy behind the large boulder that I had planned on
catching. I headed over and jus as I was about to paddle into the eddy
I realized that there was no eddy here. The bolder was so undercut
and sieved out that water was flowing downstream from behind it. I
quickly spun around and ended up running the smooth tongue
sideways through a big wave before straightening out and catching a
river right eddy.

I had run a very dry line despite getting sideways at a key point so
pulling into the sandy beached eddy below the main part of Blossom
Bar was easy. I quickly climbed up to a huge outcrop overlooking the
rapid. From here it was easy to see that there was really no eddy
where I planned on stopping. I more thorough scout would have
revealed this, but it all worked out well in the end. The others decided
to run Blossom one at a time and I enjoyed the amphitheater like view
of the rapid from my perch. The only drawback was the heat. On the
exposed ledge above the rapid, away from the water, it must have
been at least 100 degrees. By the time the others had made it through
the rapid I was more than ready to get back to the river for a swim
before continuing along.

The run out from Blossom Bar was a fun slalom through large boulders
and everyone was in a great mood as we floated along. Another set of
fun class III rapids waited for us just downstream and while they looked
somewhat intimidating from above, the Devil’s Staircases turned out to
be clean wave trains. We stopped below these rapids for a quick break
and some more swimming before heading down into Huggins Canyon,
the last of the big gorges on the Rogue. In the last two days I had
swam more than during the last two years in Oregon. Being out on a
whitewater river with warm water was really enjoyable.
For me, Huggins Canyon was a pleasant surprise.  I really did not know all that much about
the Rogue before the trip, but I was under the impression that Mule Creek Canyon would be
the only place along the way with really spectacular scenery.  Huggins Canyon is really an
inner canyon cut into bedrock between twenty and fifty feet deep at the bottom of a very
steep walled river valley. While the river is basically smooth through Huggins Canyon, a few
quick spots with tricky currents are encountered. This was not a disappointment, it had been
a long day and I was more than happy to cruise along and enjoy the scenery.
We were debating whether or not the East Creek campsite would be easily recognized,
when a corner was rounded and a long set of concrete and stone stairs cut into the side of
the gorge were seen leading up to a small flat area. We pulled in at the mouth of a side
creek and I made the hot climb up to the bench to verify a suitable camp. Indeed, on the
plateau the remains of a foundation and plentiful tent sites greeted me. This would be the
home for our night. The remains of the cabin are all that remain from a structure built and
inhabited by retired generals following World War II.

Once again, shuttling loads of gear up the hundred feet of stairs was somewhat arduous,
but manageable with our small amount of gear. A raft group would have a tough time
utilizing this site unless they decided to set up a kitchen area near the river where there is
limited flat ground. We quickly set up our tents in the furnace like heat that blasted the
campsite so we would have time to explore the slot like canyon of East Creek. It was about
5:30 and there was still enough daylight to check out the canyon.

We started up east creek and marveled at the narrow water worn walls, always looking
down and being mindful of the fact that snakes would love to cooler microclimate created by
the stream on such a hot day. For most of the way we rock hopped or waded up the
shallow stream bed, but several times we were forced to scramble around on the walls to
avoid swimming across deeper pools. It was at least ten or fifteen degrees cooler in the
shaded stream bed and even though we had been cooked by the sun all day long
everyone was a little chilled by the time we had made our way a mile or so upstream. By the
time we returned to camp the sun had ducked behind the ridge and the temperatures
quickly became more comfortable.  I laid out my river clothes to dry and changed into dry
clothes. It felt great to stretch out in my camp chair while enjoying a mixed drink and a few
snacks. This was probably one of the most relaxed paddling trips I have ever been.  The
combination of warm water, bright sun, beaches, great camping, and a relaxed pace made
this a great way to end the summer.

Soon everyone was back in camp and dinner was underway.  We had a big feast of
minestrone soup, summer sausage, and a variety of other items. As the light faded away
we pulled out our headlamps and continued to enjoy relaxing in the warm evening air while
the moon slowly rose. Everyone did their best to stay up late but the long day and heat had
completely drained us and try as we did everyone was in their tents and heading to sleep
soon after eating.
Here I am eddy hopping across the Rogue below Blossom Bar so I can hop out and watch the
others run the drop.
We encountered Black Bar Rapids about a hundred yards below our campsite
and ran clean lines down river right.
At Horseshoe Bend a fun class III rapid leads into a large pool with a
massive cobble beach on river right creating a great campsite.
Below Horseshoe Bend the Rogue enters a long tight canyon full of straightforward but fun
rapids that provided plenty of a challenge for the canoes.
The entrance to Mule Creek Canyon is quite spectacular and somewhat intimidating,
especially in an open boat.
Steve and Sarah enter a rapid in the heart of the canyon below
Horseshoe Bend.
The whitewater in Mule Creek Canyon lasts for a half mile and ends at a narrow gap known as the Coffee Pot where boils and
whirlpools would make any swim terrifying and potentially dangerous.
Steve and Sarah exit the Coffee Pot, which is just visible upstream. Everyone in our group
made it through the rapids of Mule Creek without incident.
Scott enjoys the scenery in the lower reaches of Mule Creek Canyon.
After the Coffee Pot Mule Creek Canyon runs deep and smooth for
the better part of a mile.
Everyone was smiling after the relief of passing through Mule Creek Canyon without capsizing.
Here I am paddling away from the rapids of Mule Creek in anticipation of Blossom Bar, the last
major challenge of the run.
From upstream the best route through Blossom Bar is not obvious at first.  For the best view
those making the scout need to head downstream in order to see the proper line.
Mark paddled out of the staging eddy above Blossom Bar as he moved to river left to line up
for a clean run through the rapid.
After making the move to avoid the Picket Fence, paddlers run down a powerful tongue before
negotiating a large boulder garden.
Four canoes in the scouting eddy above Blossom Bar is a rare sight.
The tandem canoe lines up for the main chute through Blossom Bar.
Our campsite at East Creek features a bird's eye view of the river and plenty of perfect tent
sites on smooth grassy ground.
Huggins Canyon is one of the most impressive on the river despite
containing no rapids of any consequence.
East Creek's slot canyon made for a cool and interesting side hike
after setting up camp.
Scott prepares dinner at East Creek, the site of an old cabin built by retired
World War II generals.
A large Live Oak silhouetted against the robin's egg blue of the evening sky.