Saint Regis River
Location - Nicholville, NY
Difficulty - Class II, III, IV
Length - 10 miles Date - Various
Level - Medium and High






The Saint Regis River is a little known river in northern New York that
drains a series of lakes in the heart of the Adirondacks and flows due
north into the Saint Lawrence River near Massena, NY. The flat lake
country of the central Adirondacks is situated several thousand feet
above the surrounding terrain and on its northern edge it falls away to
the Saint Lawrence valley in a uniform slope. To the casual observer
this northern slope does not seem a likely place for whitewater rivers
as its terrain features gentle hills instead of tall mountains. However,
as the rivers of northern New York make their way down this incline
they fall steadily, sometimes cutting their way through, over, and
around bedrock ledges. The deceptive amounts of relief in this area
create many outstanding whitewater runs far from population centers.
The St Regis is one such river, and it provides miles of quality rapids,
a relatively long season, and hardly any boaters at all. The best
whitewater on the St Regis was concentrated in an 11 or 12 mile
stretch between the town of St Regis Falls and Nicholville, and the run
can be divided into two distinctly different sections. Just as each of
the two runs on the St Regis are distinctly different so is the river’s
personality at different water levels. At some point during the year
this river offers something for just about everyone that has ever
paddled.
The upper run starts at a campground in the town of St Regis Falls.
The private facility is usually closed when the river runs, but if
someone is working just ask permission to park. The people have
been really nice in the past. St Regis Falls has been run, but the
double drop is very burly looking, contains some big hydraulics, and
has reputedly taken the life of a local paddler. We always put in at the
river right eddy just below the large double falls.
Busy class III rapids start out immediately and numerous small surf
waves and eddies can be found. As with the entire upper section, this
first rapid gets better as flows increase. Soon you will spot a low rock
island in the river with horizon lines on either side. Either side of the
outcrop can be run, but the holes can get very large, especially at
higher flows. If the water is high enough to be covering the ledge
island use it to boof this drop into a river center eddy. Immediately
below this island the river narrows and runs through a strong wave
train. A four foot pourover hides just to the right of the main flow and
this can be boofed at some levels, but it gets munchy with more
water. A good eddy can be found just below this pourover. When
flows are up this is the last good place to stop for a while, so take
advantage of it. This first half mile is probably the most difficult
section on the Saint Regis, but continuously solid rapids fill the next
four miles and at higher flows the run demands respect as swims
could be long and while the waves are large the river tends to be
shallow.
Big class super continuous class III water continues below here and
around several corners. The brown tannin stained waters of the St Regis
can make reading the water tough for those not familiar with it, but most of
the biggest waves in this upper stretch don’t hide any nasty surprises.
Shortly paddlers find themselves entering a small lake like expansion in
the river above an old partially blown out dam. An easy portage can be
made on river left. The drop created by this old dam looks to be
completely unrunnable with piles of broken concrete and lots of rebar
littering its base.
Immediately below the dam a long class III-IV rapid contains heavy water
and several wide holes to dodge. For the next two miles the St Regis is
one continuous big water class III – IV rapid at high flows. The gradient is
steep, the river waves are large, and the riverbed is shallow, so choose
your surf waves carefully. At least one large hole is hidden in this section
and while many lines exist, some are cleaner than others. At
approximately 2,500 cfs the waves seem largest, wit higher flows partially
washing things out and lower flow producing more rocks. Few eddies exist
so grab any that you can find if stopping is in your agenda. This stretch of
river is known as the Silver Staircase, and it is not hard to understand why
when you look at the river from above. The continuous rapids shimmering
in sunlight certainly seem to gleam. From river level boaters will be
scouting ahead as they rise over the crests of waves and downstream
visibility will be reduced to virtually nothing when crashing through the
deep troughs.
After the two intense miles below the old dam the rapids gradually ease
back to class III and then to class II as the river widens and the gradient
flattens out. This calmer stretch of river lasts for a mile or so and the end
of the upper run is reached when you come to a green metal bridge. This
bridge marks the put in for the lower run on the St Regis. At lows flows
this bottom section is fun class II-II+ with one or two more difficult rapids
thrown in for good measure while the upper stretch is shallow and
technical class III. As the flows rise the lower river turns into a great run
loaded with some of the best wave surfing to be found in New York.
The first to miles below the bridge are easy class II at any level, but
high water will produce a couple of large holes and a few great waves
to catch on the fly. A few of the corners in this stretch have heavier
rapids that are extremely rocky at low water and extremely fun at high
water. Nothing demands close attention until a noticeably heavier
rapids can be seen where the river makes a pronounced ninety
degree turn to the right and canyon walls can be seen rising up on
river left. Eagle Rock is approaching and boaters should try to eddy
out somewhere on river left.
The lead in rapid holds some excellent play waves on river left that
get quite large at high water. If you fail to recognize this lead in, it will
be obvious that you have reached Eagle Rock when reddish
sandstone canyon walls are spotted ahead and the river noticeably
narrows. At low water this is a simple class III rapid with a large hole
extending out from the river right bank next to the highest spire of
rock on that side. At high water Eagle Rock is a hefty class III-IV that
holds an enormous river right hydraulic and a few meaty holes in the
entrance. In general it works to stay in the center of the river. A few
solid eddies can be found on river left below Eagle Rock were things
open up a bit.
Following Eagle Rock the current remains very fast and heavy when flows
are healthy. The next horizon line signifies the Otter Slide, a low angle
ledge dropping about fifteen feet. At low water the easiest line is to run
down the middle and punch a shallow hole at the bottom. At high water the
center line still goes, but the hole at the bottom gets very large. Before we
knew any better my friends I always ran the gut regardless of the water
level and people routinely took some exciting beatings in the hole, with a
prolonged tandem surf being one of the most exciting of these unintentional
hole rides. One cold spring day after a group of us were through dealing
with the hole we saw some guys from Potsdam that we knew run a line on
river right that completely avoided the hole. What a revelation. At high
flows run the Otter slide on river right. The only problem is that a severe
hazard exists on river right at any flows. An old millrace on river right
diverts some of the flow about fifty yards above the main drop at the Otter
Slide. Any boater going into the mill race would likely not survive as the
diverted flow funnels down through a square chasm full of rebar. If you run
right, don’t head down the side channel over that way.
Below the Otter Slide the river runs through a canyon cut into sandstone
and the bottom of the river flows over low angle bedrock ledges.
The result is two miles of perfect waves between three and five feet tall, all topped with perfect soft foam piles. There must be at least 20 high
quality play spots between the slide and the take out with countless other features. The vast majority of these waves do not have eddy access, so
spread out, catch whatever you can, and hog the waves you do catch. The foam piles make for easy spinning and many of the waves have great
shoulders for blunting.
In my opinion, the single best feature is on river left below a waterfall that pours into the canyon from river left. This bowl shaped wave is steep, fast,
powerful, and smooth. It’s so sticky when you are upright that it is tough to get off of, but it’s not sticky at all when you flip. Unfortunately there is no
eddy to allow for multiple rides. Enjoy it if you can find it, because the take out is just below on river right above the high Rout 11 B bridge. The
actual take out feels a lot like someone’s driveway, but we have been assured that this is a public access and there has never been trouble.
Galen, Steve, and Mike rest in a large eddy below one of the bigger rapids on the
upper Saint Regis River about a half mile below Saint Regis Falls.
Despite its blurriness, this picture shows the continuous nature of the upper Saint
Regis at higher flows. Waves in this stretch reach four to five feet in height.
Some pieces if ice still line the "Silver Staircase" section of the upper Saint Regis.
This part of the river is essentially one 3 mile long class III wavetrain.
Here my dad and I are starting a run on the lower Saint Regis at a medium level
on a gorgeous day in early May.
The lower Saint Regis provides 5 or 6 miles of outstanding canoing at medium flows
with some big rapids near the end of the run. We were foolish to not have an airbag,
but our run was flawless in addition to being well supported.
The old Chevy Cavalier loaded up with boats after another great day of fun over
on the Saint Regis River.