| South Sister Date - 7/1/2007 Length - 12 miles Elevation Gain - 5,000 feet Route - Standard / South Ridge Location - West of Bend, OR |
Standing at 10,356 feet above sea level,
South Sister is Orgeon’s third highest peak
and the tallest of the majestic Three Sisters.
This string of closely spaced volcanoes all
erupted at different times, with the South
Sister being the youngest of them all. The
fact that South Sister is youngest means that it
is the least eroded. While North Sister is
fractured and spired with deep ravines in its
sides, the South Sister retains the signature
cone shape that makes its volcanic origins so
apparent. The relatively gently slopes of this
peak make for easy routes to the summit that
are not plagued by rockfall or large bands of
cliffs. The standard route up the south ridge
has an established path to the summit that
requires no technical skills to follow under
most conditions.
South Sister is Orgeon’s third highest peak
and the tallest of the majestic Three Sisters.
This string of closely spaced volcanoes all
erupted at different times, with the South
Sister being the youngest of them all. The
fact that South Sister is youngest means that it
is the least eroded. While North Sister is
fractured and spired with deep ravines in its
sides, the South Sister retains the signature
cone shape that makes its volcanic origins so
apparent. The relatively gently slopes of this
peak make for easy routes to the summit that
are not plagued by rockfall or large bands of
cliffs. The standard route up the south ridge
has an established path to the summit that
requires no technical skills to follow under
most conditions.
Michelle and I considered the excellent forecast for central Oregon
and decided to climb South Sister on the first day of July. Although
the past winter produced a lower than average snowpack the trails
were reported to hold considerable snow in places so we made it a
point to pack snowshoes, poles, and a host of other cold weather
gear. By six in the afternoon we left town and made the drive across
Willamette Pass to the trailhead at Devil’s Lake. By the time we
finished dinner the sun was setting and some mosquitoes were
coming out so we put in early for the night and set the alarm for 4:00
am.
Despite the incredibly bright full moon we managed a good rest and
did not feel too tired when my travel alarm rang at 4:00. I crawled out
of the truck first and threw on a winter hat and fleece to keep the
chilly mountain air off of my skin. Temperatures were in the mid
forties which meant that it was below freezing on the mountain, a good
sign, since we would want nice firm snow during our climb. After a
quick breakfast we were ready to hit the trail by 5:00 am. It is always
a good idea to get started early when climbing a big peak in order to
have enough time to summit and descend to lower elevations before
the snow softens, rockfalls begin, and afternoon thunderstorms build.
Our turn around time would be between noon and one regardless of
whether or not we had reached the summit of South Sister.
By the time we started walking it was already light enough to see
without a headlamp. A small deer bounded out of our way and within
a hundred yards of the parking lot the path began to climb steeply
through a forested valley. In a quarter mile the grade eased
somewhat and we encountered the first patch of snow. The thick
mountain hemlock lining the trail were draped in moss, but the bottom
fifteen feet were bare bark. After a few seconds it dawned on us that
this line represented to average depth of snow in this valley.
Amazing!
As we walked we generated enough to warrant stopping to take off
some clothes. For most of the rest of the day I would be hiking in thin
thermal underwear and shorts and a T shirt over a long sleeved
synthetic top. About half way up the valley we encountered the lower
edge of the snowpack and were happy to find it possible to walk on
top of the firmly consolidated snow without sinking in. Although there
was probably ten feet of snow in places there was no need for the
snowshoes since it was so well packed. The walking was easy until
we reached a headwall and climbed steeply up and out of the valley.
By the time we reached the top the sun was shining and illuminated
the parklands of the broad plateau we had reached. Our elevation
was about 6,800 feet and the trees that existed grew in widely spaced
bands or clumps making for extensive views of this incredible terrain.
The views from this alpine plain are incredible and this parkland would
make a great destination in and of itself. Snowcover here was
extensive, but snowshoes were not necessary. To the east the
perfect cone shape of Mt Bachelor rose above us, jagged Broken Top
loomed to the northeast, and the glaciated South Sister rose directly
to the north. From this position the scale of the mountain started to
become apparent and all of our route could be seen on the volcano’s
south face. The walk across this area was quick and easy, and soon
we were at the base of the climb. Tracks from previous climbers
marked the way and lead over a low ridge to extensive snowfields that
we followed uphill for at least a mile.
and decided to climb South Sister on the first day of July. Although
the past winter produced a lower than average snowpack the trails
were reported to hold considerable snow in places so we made it a
point to pack snowshoes, poles, and a host of other cold weather
gear. By six in the afternoon we left town and made the drive across
Willamette Pass to the trailhead at Devil’s Lake. By the time we
finished dinner the sun was setting and some mosquitoes were
coming out so we put in early for the night and set the alarm for 4:00
am.
Despite the incredibly bright full moon we managed a good rest and
did not feel too tired when my travel alarm rang at 4:00. I crawled out
of the truck first and threw on a winter hat and fleece to keep the
chilly mountain air off of my skin. Temperatures were in the mid
forties which meant that it was below freezing on the mountain, a good
sign, since we would want nice firm snow during our climb. After a
quick breakfast we were ready to hit the trail by 5:00 am. It is always
a good idea to get started early when climbing a big peak in order to
have enough time to summit and descend to lower elevations before
the snow softens, rockfalls begin, and afternoon thunderstorms build.
Our turn around time would be between noon and one regardless of
whether or not we had reached the summit of South Sister.
By the time we started walking it was already light enough to see
without a headlamp. A small deer bounded out of our way and within
a hundred yards of the parking lot the path began to climb steeply
through a forested valley. In a quarter mile the grade eased
somewhat and we encountered the first patch of snow. The thick
mountain hemlock lining the trail were draped in moss, but the bottom
fifteen feet were bare bark. After a few seconds it dawned on us that
this line represented to average depth of snow in this valley.
Amazing!
As we walked we generated enough to warrant stopping to take off
some clothes. For most of the rest of the day I would be hiking in thin
thermal underwear and shorts and a T shirt over a long sleeved
synthetic top. About half way up the valley we encountered the lower
edge of the snowpack and were happy to find it possible to walk on
top of the firmly consolidated snow without sinking in. Although there
was probably ten feet of snow in places there was no need for the
snowshoes since it was so well packed. The walking was easy until
we reached a headwall and climbed steeply up and out of the valley.
By the time we reached the top the sun was shining and illuminated
the parklands of the broad plateau we had reached. Our elevation
was about 6,800 feet and the trees that existed grew in widely spaced
bands or clumps making for extensive views of this incredible terrain.
The views from this alpine plain are incredible and this parkland would
make a great destination in and of itself. Snowcover here was
extensive, but snowshoes were not necessary. To the east the
perfect cone shape of Mt Bachelor rose above us, jagged Broken Top
loomed to the northeast, and the glaciated South Sister rose directly
to the north. From this position the scale of the mountain started to
become apparent and all of our route could be seen on the volcano’s
south face. The walk across this area was quick and easy, and soon
we were at the base of the climb. Tracks from previous climbers
marked the way and lead over a low ridge to extensive snowfields that
we followed uphill for at least a mile.
Since the snowfields were to the west of the low ridge we crossed they
were still shaded and quite firm at this early hour. The slopes were
relatively low angle at first, but they eventually steepened to twenty five
or thirty degrees, making traversing and kicking steps a good idea. We
were glad to have the snow since this part of the climb is likely to be a
cinder filled dust slog later in the season. The sun was out in full
strength now, but our gains in elevation countered the day’s heating and
held the temperature down. We kept a slow pace and worked uphill to
the top end of the snowfields. I brought us back onto a well trodden
path at this point and we worked up a steep outcrop of loose rock to a
relatively flat saddle at the base of a steep scree slope.
I was feeling strong at this point and the steep climb did not bother me at
the slow and steady pace we had decided to utilize. The last stretches
had been steep enough to hide the top of the mountain and limit views
of the route ahead. I guessed that we were about half done with the
climb and Michelle was surprised to hear that the summit was not at the
top of the rock pile we were working our way up. Luckily, the footing was
good and the scree fairly solid. Within half an hour the last steps up this
steep pitch were taken.
Looking back out away from the mountain also revealed incredible
views. The the east Broken Top and Mt Bachelor jutted up from the
surrounding lake land. The most extensive view was of the high lake
lands stretching away to the south, with distant Diamond Peak poking its
snow covered summit ridges above the other rolling peaks. To the east
glimpses of the broken Cascade foothills could be seen complete with
fog filled valleys and a haze over the distant Pacific Ocean.
One of the most interesting sights were the patterned lava fields at the
southern base of South Sister. These fields, and the several miniature
cones and vents stood out quite clearly. The mountain's last eruption
was only a few thousand years ago. Today South Sister is a sleeping
giant, but geologists have been monitoring a large area on the
mountain's western side that has been bulging. This bulge grew by
several centimeters a year in the late nineties and early two thousands,
but the rate of expansion, caused by an upwelling of magma several
thousand feet underground, has curtailed in recent years. Still, the
mountain is closely monitored as any eruptions could prove disastrous
for cities and towns up to fifty miles from the volcano.
The view that unfolded as we reached the top of this steep scree slope
stretch was quite remarkable. The rocky slope we had just struggled up
was actually the downhill side of Lewis Glacier’s most recent terminal
moraine and from the ridge of glacial debris the entire summit cone of
South Sister rose over a thousand feet above us. For the tired hiker this
would be a disheartening sight, but for me it was gorgeous. A sapphire
blue pond at the base of the glacier stood out like a gem and the Lewis
Glacier rose to a rocky headwall of cliffs with a relatively gentle ridge
sweeping around the west side of the ice. This ridge, composed of
striking red cinders would be our route to the summit and the party of
climbers in front of us could be seen working their way up to the summit.
From our position the climb did not appear steep, but we would be
proved wrong shortly.
were still shaded and quite firm at this early hour. The slopes were
relatively low angle at first, but they eventually steepened to twenty five
or thirty degrees, making traversing and kicking steps a good idea. We
were glad to have the snow since this part of the climb is likely to be a
cinder filled dust slog later in the season. The sun was out in full
strength now, but our gains in elevation countered the day’s heating and
held the temperature down. We kept a slow pace and worked uphill to
the top end of the snowfields. I brought us back onto a well trodden
path at this point and we worked up a steep outcrop of loose rock to a
relatively flat saddle at the base of a steep scree slope.
I was feeling strong at this point and the steep climb did not bother me at
the slow and steady pace we had decided to utilize. The last stretches
had been steep enough to hide the top of the mountain and limit views
of the route ahead. I guessed that we were about half done with the
climb and Michelle was surprised to hear that the summit was not at the
top of the rock pile we were working our way up. Luckily, the footing was
good and the scree fairly solid. Within half an hour the last steps up this
steep pitch were taken.
Looking back out away from the mountain also revealed incredible
views. The the east Broken Top and Mt Bachelor jutted up from the
surrounding lake land. The most extensive view was of the high lake
lands stretching away to the south, with distant Diamond Peak poking its
snow covered summit ridges above the other rolling peaks. To the east
glimpses of the broken Cascade foothills could be seen complete with
fog filled valleys and a haze over the distant Pacific Ocean.
One of the most interesting sights were the patterned lava fields at the
southern base of South Sister. These fields, and the several miniature
cones and vents stood out quite clearly. The mountain's last eruption
was only a few thousand years ago. Today South Sister is a sleeping
giant, but geologists have been monitoring a large area on the
mountain's western side that has been bulging. This bulge grew by
several centimeters a year in the late nineties and early two thousands,
but the rate of expansion, caused by an upwelling of magma several
thousand feet underground, has curtailed in recent years. Still, the
mountain is closely monitored as any eruptions could prove disastrous
for cities and towns up to fifty miles from the volcano.
The view that unfolded as we reached the top of this steep scree slope
stretch was quite remarkable. The rocky slope we had just struggled up
was actually the downhill side of Lewis Glacier’s most recent terminal
moraine and from the ridge of glacial debris the entire summit cone of
South Sister rose over a thousand feet above us. For the tired hiker this
would be a disheartening sight, but for me it was gorgeous. A sapphire
blue pond at the base of the glacier stood out like a gem and the Lewis
Glacier rose to a rocky headwall of cliffs with a relatively gentle ridge
sweeping around the west side of the ice. This ridge, composed of
striking red cinders would be our route to the summit and the party of
climbers in front of us could be seen working their way up to the summit.
From our position the climb did not appear steep, but we would be
proved wrong shortly.
At this perch on the terminal moraine of Lewis Glacier the wind
was wiping and the air chilly enough to force us into adding a
layer of clothing and putting on winter hats. The day was still
clear, but a line of tiny cloud puffs was developing just to the west
of the Cascade Crest, something I would be keeping my eyes on
for the rest of the day. Although Oregon is typically pretty dry in
the summer, the dense forests of the western part of the state
and the Pacific Ocean lying just a hundred miles away provide
plenty of moisture to fuel afternoon thunderstorms. While we
geared up with extra clothes the clouds could be seen building
several miles to the west of the Cascade Crest, formed by moist
air cooling as it is forced up by the towering mountains, and water
vapor condensing out to create the clouds.
The Lewis Glacier is relatively small, but we did notice several
crevasses opening up. Since the glacier has shrunk in recent
years it has pulled away from its headwall, exposing a band of
steep and rotten cliffs. No feasible climbing route exists up the
glacier, so we followed the steep red cinder ridge up the western
edge of the Lewis Glacier.
Our initial pace up this final ridge was slow and it only grew slower
as we began to feel the effects of exerting ourselves at over
9,000 feet above sea level. Michelle was not used to the feeling
produced by exertion at altitude, but our slow pace worked in our
favor. After a quick stop to bandage feet suffering from hot spots,
we had a snack and pushed on to the top with renewed vigor.
The route eventually traverses away from the ridge and the
glacier before turning straight uphill for the last hundred feet to
the summit crater.
During the hour or so it took us to climb this final pitch the almost
invisible string of clouds I spotted developed into a band of puffy
cummulous fluff that started to blow around the summit of South
Sister just as we reached the crater rim. Luckily the bands were
thin enough that we had amazing views. In fact, having clouds
blow in at head level added to the alpine feel and made the
summit even more enjoyable. The whole crater was still snow
filled and we walked the quarter mile around the east edge of the
rim to the true summit pinnacle from where the views north to the
rest of the three sisters were amazing as the rugged peaks
appeared in and out of the clouds that were moving through. The
temptation to walk directly across the filled in crater to the true
summit is pretty strong, but the snowfield reportedly holds some
deep crevasses so we opted for the somewhat rough traverse
around the eastern rim. The views down to the base of the
mountain from the edge of the crater were spectacular. Glacial
tarns littered the base of the peak, some deep blue, others silty
green, and one a chocolate brown color.
The birds eye view of Oregon from the state's third highest peak
was a great reward. Watching the thin clouds blow up and over
the peak at twenty miles an hour was exciting and reminded me of
how terrible it would be to get stuck in an electrical storm up here.
Nothing we saw indicated that a storm was building, but the
speed at which a dangerous situation could develop was
highlighted by how fast our day went from having a crystal clear
atmosphere to some clouds. We had made it to the top before
our one o'clock turn around time, and reluctantly left to start the
descent after only a half hour of enjoying the true summit. Later
in the year the summit crater on South Sister holds a pool of deep
blue melt water, a tiny "lake" perched at 10,300 feet above sea
level. Today the crater was still packed with deep snow and no
signs of water, but the hollow field at the peak was an interesting
place. In ten or fifteen minutes we had returned to the stone
windbreak where our packs had been left, had a snack, and
started back down the summit cone of the mountain, with the next
rest scheduled for the base of the Lewis Glacier.
was wiping and the air chilly enough to force us into adding a
layer of clothing and putting on winter hats. The day was still
clear, but a line of tiny cloud puffs was developing just to the west
of the Cascade Crest, something I would be keeping my eyes on
for the rest of the day. Although Oregon is typically pretty dry in
the summer, the dense forests of the western part of the state
and the Pacific Ocean lying just a hundred miles away provide
plenty of moisture to fuel afternoon thunderstorms. While we
geared up with extra clothes the clouds could be seen building
several miles to the west of the Cascade Crest, formed by moist
air cooling as it is forced up by the towering mountains, and water
vapor condensing out to create the clouds.
The Lewis Glacier is relatively small, but we did notice several
crevasses opening up. Since the glacier has shrunk in recent
years it has pulled away from its headwall, exposing a band of
steep and rotten cliffs. No feasible climbing route exists up the
glacier, so we followed the steep red cinder ridge up the western
edge of the Lewis Glacier.
Our initial pace up this final ridge was slow and it only grew slower
as we began to feel the effects of exerting ourselves at over
9,000 feet above sea level. Michelle was not used to the feeling
produced by exertion at altitude, but our slow pace worked in our
favor. After a quick stop to bandage feet suffering from hot spots,
we had a snack and pushed on to the top with renewed vigor.
The route eventually traverses away from the ridge and the
glacier before turning straight uphill for the last hundred feet to
the summit crater.
During the hour or so it took us to climb this final pitch the almost
invisible string of clouds I spotted developed into a band of puffy
cummulous fluff that started to blow around the summit of South
Sister just as we reached the crater rim. Luckily the bands were
thin enough that we had amazing views. In fact, having clouds
blow in at head level added to the alpine feel and made the
summit even more enjoyable. The whole crater was still snow
filled and we walked the quarter mile around the east edge of the
rim to the true summit pinnacle from where the views north to the
rest of the three sisters were amazing as the rugged peaks
appeared in and out of the clouds that were moving through. The
temptation to walk directly across the filled in crater to the true
summit is pretty strong, but the snowfield reportedly holds some
deep crevasses so we opted for the somewhat rough traverse
around the eastern rim. The views down to the base of the
mountain from the edge of the crater were spectacular. Glacial
tarns littered the base of the peak, some deep blue, others silty
green, and one a chocolate brown color.
The birds eye view of Oregon from the state's third highest peak
was a great reward. Watching the thin clouds blow up and over
the peak at twenty miles an hour was exciting and reminded me of
how terrible it would be to get stuck in an electrical storm up here.
Nothing we saw indicated that a storm was building, but the
speed at which a dangerous situation could develop was
highlighted by how fast our day went from having a crystal clear
atmosphere to some clouds. We had made it to the top before
our one o'clock turn around time, and reluctantly left to start the
descent after only a half hour of enjoying the true summit. Later
in the year the summit crater on South Sister holds a pool of deep
blue melt water, a tiny "lake" perched at 10,300 feet above sea
level. Today the crater was still packed with deep snow and no
signs of water, but the hollow field at the peak was an interesting
place. In ten or fifteen minutes we had returned to the stone
windbreak where our packs had been left, had a snack, and
started back down the summit cone of the mountain, with the next
rest scheduled for the base of the Lewis Glacier.
On our way down the summit cone clouds continued to build and swirl
around us. Despite the somewhat loose footing descending was much
faster than the climb had been and soon we were back at the base of
the glacier. What had been a cold and windy spot several hours ago
was not still and actually quite hot. A quick lunch was made of summer
sausage and cheese on bagels before moving down as some of the
clouds began to tower and grow dark just off to the east. The skies in
our immediate area were sunny and the day was gorgeous, but we
didn't want to take any chances with being caught in a surprise
thunderstorm.
Soon we had reached South Sister's lower snowfields and were baking
in the hot summer sun reflecting off of the snow. While the surface
has softened considerably, we were happy to find the snow was firm
enough to support our weight. Foot skiing and glisading down these
snowfields was a lot of fun. The only problem we had was that the last
of water was used up at lunch and virtually none was available until we
reached my truck again. I had packed an empty bottle full of snow on
the way up and that produces a third of a Nalgene of gritty water, but
we each could have consumed much more.
By the time we reached a band of trees at the base of the mountain we
were very ready for some shade. A quick rest let us cool down a little
and we were soon on our way. The shock of going from frigid morning
temperatures to sweltering afternoon heat was striking. From this
point the hike went quickly. Despite our aching feet we were able to
reach the trailhead in good condition.
The day had been long, but our slow and steady pace worked very
well. The thunderstorms we worried about never materialized and the
long ride home was uneventful. Michelle did a great job climbing her
first bigger mountain and we are eager to get out to some more of the
higher Cascades together.
around us. Despite the somewhat loose footing descending was much
faster than the climb had been and soon we were back at the base of
the glacier. What had been a cold and windy spot several hours ago
was not still and actually quite hot. A quick lunch was made of summer
sausage and cheese on bagels before moving down as some of the
clouds began to tower and grow dark just off to the east. The skies in
our immediate area were sunny and the day was gorgeous, but we
didn't want to take any chances with being caught in a surprise
thunderstorm.
Soon we had reached South Sister's lower snowfields and were baking
in the hot summer sun reflecting off of the snow. While the surface
has softened considerably, we were happy to find the snow was firm
enough to support our weight. Foot skiing and glisading down these
snowfields was a lot of fun. The only problem we had was that the last
of water was used up at lunch and virtually none was available until we
reached my truck again. I had packed an empty bottle full of snow on
the way up and that produces a third of a Nalgene of gritty water, but
we each could have consumed much more.
By the time we reached a band of trees at the base of the mountain we
were very ready for some shade. A quick rest let us cool down a little
and we were soon on our way. The shock of going from frigid morning
temperatures to sweltering afternoon heat was striking. From this
point the hike went quickly. Despite our aching feet we were able to
reach the trailhead in good condition.
The day had been long, but our slow and steady pace worked very
well. The thunderstorms we worried about never materialized and the
long ride home was uneventful. Michelle did a great job climbing her
first bigger mountain and we are eager to get out to some more of the
higher Cascades together.
Michelle standing at the base of South Sister with our route to the summit highlighted in yellow. It took an hour
and a half to cove the four miles from the trailhead to this point.
and a half to cove the four miles from the trailhead to this point.
On the lower reaches of the trail we found deep snow that was luckily firm enough to
support our weight and make walking easy.
support our weight and make walking easy.
Michelle makes her way up the extensive snowfields that persisted lower on the
mountain. The surface was just soft enough to let us pass without crampons.
mountain. The surface was just soft enough to let us pass without crampons.
On the lower reaches of the trail we found deep snow that was luckily firm enough to
support our weight and make walking easy.
support our weight and make walking easy.
Higher up on the lower snowfields views of the surrounding area opened up. If
you look closely an old crater and lava flows can be seen rising out of the snow.
you look closely an old crater and lava flows can be seen rising out of the snow.
The rugged summit of Broken of Broken Top looms in the background as we take a
much deserved rest stop between 8,500 and 9,000 feet.
much deserved rest stop between 8,500 and 9,000 feet.
Michelle makes her way up the steep terminal moraine of the Lewis Glacier. This
slope of loose scree was unfortunately no longer covered in snow.
slope of loose scree was unfortunately no longer covered in snow.
On the way up the base of the Lewis Glacier was a cold and windy place. From here to the
summit our route followed the sweeping ridge seen to the left of Michelle.
summit our route followed the sweeping ridge seen to the left of Michelle.
The last thousand feet to the top of South Sister were quite a bit steeper than they first
appeared and the altitude slowed our pace considerably.
appeared and the altitude slowed our pace considerably.
The summit crater was entirely filled with snow but still presented a strange scene
at the top of the mountain. The Cascade foothills can be seen in the background.
at the top of the mountain. The Cascade foothills can be seen in the background.
Here I am looking pretty silly just a few feet below the actual summit, which is just a
high point on the crater rim . The steep snowslope behind me drops to a glacier that
runs for several thousand feet down the side of the mountain.
high point on the crater rim . The steep snowslope behind me drops to a glacier that
runs for several thousand feet down the side of the mountain.
Clouds swirl around Michelle as we make our way down South Sister's south ridge
just after noon.
just after noon.
Here I am posing from a spot back down on the flats leading to the base of the
actual climb. Though we still had four mile to the truck we felt our climb was over
at this point.
actual climb. Though we still had four mile to the truck we felt our climb was over
at this point.
Mt Bachelor and central Oregon can be seen in the distance from a point high on
South Sister.
South Sister.